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Published: April 11th 2009
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'Cosmic Coincidence' is a phrase I never use lightly. In fact, I rarely use it, but how else can you explain the following...
I was on a train heading from Cesky Krumlov to Salzburg, and I noticed my ticket said it was April 1st. This was the exact date that I flew into Africa for the first time, exactly one year ago, the beginning of this grand adventure. Hardly a cosmic coincidence you're probably thinking.
Sure, but you haven't heard the best of it yet. While I was sitting there, thinking of all the things I've seen and done, the people I have met and the places I have visited, I got nostalgic. I started thinking of the whole trip, and how this travelblog has been like a wonderful memory for me. How I will look back on "Oliver's Travels" in years to come and smile wistfully with the memories assosciated with sharing such a journal with my friends and family. And also anyone who types such phrases into google as "tasteful toilet humour" (top spot on google.co.uk at last check) as someone pointed out once. Maybe "cosmic coincidence" now too...
Anyway, it was about this point when
Belvedere Gardens, Vienna
Loads of statues in Vienna. I think I saw more lions in one day in Vienna than in two months in Africa. I picked up the old book I had traded for at the last hostel library and as I glanced at the the yellowing edges of the pages, a faded stamp caught my attention. In worn letters, but still clear enough, I was gobsmacked to read the words "Oliver's Travels" with a sub note "100% Fake English Pub". I looked into it, apparently it's the stamp of a pub in La Paz, Bolivia - I realized the book had probably travelled further than I had. But this whole sub note is beside the point. Imagine my surprise. Oliver's Travels. Cosmic coincidence indeed.
***
The first part of this trip has been exhilirating, I've travelled through Poland, The Czech Republic and Austria. The weather has been mostly miserable, but from the beginning of the trip until now it has been steadily improving.
From when I left Michal's house in Northern Poland, I contracted what can only be described as the Black Death again. She had come to finish off what she wasn't strong enough to in London. I was bed ridden for a few days, and had to find a way to lift my spirits, and everyone knows the
only way to beat the plague is with happiness. Warsaw was bleak and cold, Krakow was bleak but amazing. Either way, I still needed to lift my spirits. Heading to Auschwitz for the day was probably the worst idea I could have imagined, but it was a sobering experience I was glad to have had. But I wanted to be healthy, not sober.
I was spitting blood by the time I reached Vienna. Sending this information to my Mum was perhaps the wrong idea, but I didn't get much sympathy from the Polish ticket inspector on my overnight train from Krakow. Luckily for my spirits, Vienna is a beautiful city and it was enjoying it's first pleasant day since winter began (according to the strumpet who served me my apple strudel). Beautiful, but not captivating. (The city, not the strumpet).
Still, as I always say, when you're spitting blood head to Prague. I'm glad I did this because I found Prague to be one of the more amazing cities I've ever come across. From the minute I got there and joy-rided the trains and trams I liked it. I met up with a mate from London and we
stayed at his friend's place in the centre of the old town. A few words about Prague for those who haven't been fortunate enough to visit yet.
Prague, Prague, Prague. Even the sound of it appeals to me. Praaaague. It sounds like the noise you might make when you sit down in a comfortable chair. Or when you finish a satisfying meal. Prague. Not just the sound of the name, but also the images that come to mind with Prague. Cobblestones, castles, bridges and fairytales. And flowing beer in enormous mugs.
I don't know what it was exactly that I found so enthralling about this city, but it really got under my skin. I mean, there were actually a lot of things that weren't playing in its favour. Lousy weather, indoor smoking, a language I couldn't grasp to save my life. But still I loved it - I stayed for five days. I am still constantly struck by how old some of these castles, buildings, streets, monuments and statues are. Coming from a city like Perth, I find it almost unfathomable to walk through a 1000 year old castle. As far as I know, the oldest thing back
home is the lady next door.
From Prague, I headed south to Cesky Krumlov. Cesky Krumlov is like a secret code-word among travellers, followed by excited tales of a paradise nestled among the mountains of Southern Czech Republic. I thought it was was definitely an interesting city, but it was a bit disappointing not to be there in summer when the river that loops around the whole town is filled with boats and inflated tubes full of eager drinkers and travellers - but at least it wasn't crowded. I wandered the empty streets alone and was quite content to do it.
From here, it was off to Salzburg - a town famous for Mozart, Baroque architecture and The Sound of Music, and these are a few of my favourite things. And what a time I had there, but let's start at the very beginning (a very good place to start)...
I arrived in Salzburg as the sun was setting and was impressed immediately. Enormous snow capped mountains surround the city, looming magnificently in every direction you look. Gleaming white towers, soft green rooves, gentle red tiles. I felt like getting amongst it straightaway, but had to dump
my bag and check in to my hostel before dark.
I wasn't so impressed with my hostel. Over £20 for a 6 bed dorm in what I can only describe as a cross between a hospital, a jail, and a classroom. It was terrible, huge, ugly, and packed with rampant teenagers spilling in and out of every door. They were on some kind of school trip, and old enough to know better. (I'd guess they were about sixteen going on seventeen).
I settled down that night to watch the daily screening of the Sound of Music, which was somewhat ruined by a heavy-set mentalist woman in front of me who was singing along to the songs and breathing really loudly in between. I could see in her eyes that she would be doing the Sound Of Music Tour the next day, and envisioned the bus full of other crazies who would be there too. I decided I wouldn't be getting on the bus in the morning.
Instead, I chose to rent a bike and do my own Sound of Music tour. Timid, and shy, and scared was I, but it turned out to be a one of
the more memorable days of my trip so far. The weather was glorious, it was the first time I had worn shorts in about six months. I cycled all day along the river, checked out the beautiful Mirabelle Gardens, wove through the old streets and shops, then parked my bike and climbed to the castle that was perched high on a hill. This is where I took many of the pictures from this entry. What a beautiful city.
If you can take anything from this entry: Save Cesky Krumlov for summer, and definitely don't overlook it. Prague is one of the best big cities in Europe, right up there with Paris and Florence (although as far as this blog is concerned, I haven't been to Florence yet). And if you find yourself in Salzburg, consider renting a bike.
And cosmic coincidences do happen.
Until next time, so long, farewell, auf Wiedersehen, goodnight.
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MGD
non-member comment
Lay ee odl lay ee odl lay hee hoo
I hate to have to say it, but very firmly feel, that Salzberg has got to you. Seems you need someone older and wiser to tell you what to do. Girls in white dresses with blue satin sashes? Crisp apple streudels and schnitzel with noodles? Time to heave a sigh, say goodbye!