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October 19th 2006

Published: November 11th 2006

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CM and J

Walking Streets

You should arrive in Salzburg:
A) after dark
B) without a hotel reservation
C) during a Mozart year
D) with a car
E) while battling a cold

None of the above! Unfortunately for us, we did all of the above. We had hoped to stay for 2 nights (Thursday and Friday), but quickly learned that 2006 is the 250th anniversary of Mozart's birth and so there is no low season. This meant hotels were packed for weekend concerts and there were no rooms to be had on a Friday night. The Old Town area is pedestrian only, many of the streets are one way, and parking is a limited resource. The no-cars area is actually quite large, and extends to both sides of the river. I think we would have liked it quite a bit if we didn't have a car, and if CM felt like walking a bit more. We ended up paying 20 Euros to park overnight in a garage, then walk down a very dark alley to our hotel with our bags. Luckily, we did finally find an OK place to stay in a nice area. We actually went here last because the guidebook warned that the

A Square in Salzburg

staff was unhelpful and didn't speak any English, but we found the night hostess to be really friendly and helpful. After a night of well-earned rest, we were refreshed and ready to check out the city.

With only one day, we figured the best way to see the highlights would be on a walking tour (8 Euro for a 1 hour tour at the tourist office). We were told tours were offered in English and German, which they were, but there is only one guide. So you stand around for 10 minutes while she gives the spiel in German, then listen while she gives it in English and the Austrians stand around! In truth, we did learn quite a bit of the history of the city in this fashion and enjoyed our guide very much. We did not make it up the hill to the fortress or into any of Mozart's houses, instead we chose to explore the streets, markets, and squares of the old town.

We had lunch in one of the squares where we were seated with an older gentleman from Munich (as in Oberammergau, with no empty tables we were simply placed at an occupied

Along the River

table!). We learned he was in town for a classic car festival; too bad J's Dad wasn't with us, he would have loved that! J chatted with him about driving in Austria and Germany. Although there is a speed limit of 130 kmh on much of the autobahn in Germany, exceeding it only sets you back 30 Euro which he felt was simply "a toll"!

After lunch we had "Mozart Balls", which are chocolate balls with a core of chocolate and pistachio. They originated here, and were apparently Mozart's favorite. In some ways we felt that the Mozart everything was a bit overboard here in Salzburg, but maybe it's just this year.

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