Salzburg – no hoff and pompf

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Salzburg 14-14 June (ignore the fanciful name above - no idea where it is but under S'burg)

No idea what that 'title' means, if anything – just being slightly Germanic. And I am on a train out of Salzburg to Villach, still in Austria to change to a train going from there to Bled in Slovenia for a few days. First stop there is Bled which is on a spectacular perfect small blue lake they tell me. From there hopefully down as far as Dubrovnik in Croatia (trying to avoid the weekend for tourist crush reasons). Then a likely dash from wherever I end up around 29 June to Vienna to be there for a concert by my guitar hero Richard Thompson on 30 June. So that’s the summary – what about the last couple of days in Salzburg, after leaving Linz?

Well, leaving Linz almost did not happen due to one of Michael’s senior moments – managed to leave my passport in my blue ‘bum bag’ (let’s call it a portfolio, rather than that or a fanny pack as the Americans say) in the luggage locker at the Ars Electronica gallery. I had been wearing it around myself bandolier style and put it in the locker when I opened it to get my real backpack out. Discovered on a check on the way to the station that I did not have it (mild freakout etc.) – back to the hotel, had not left it there when collecting my big bag, got the desk there to call the gallery and get someone to check locker 49 – no it was occupied! So I got down as quick as I could – to find it simply hanging on the key of a nearby locker – obviously whoever did this did not check the contents – but surely you would hand it in regardless?? Anyway this upset my onward travel plans somewhat – instead of a train at 4pm It was at 6.30pm – and after a relieving glass of Austrian riesling at the Cubus café on top of Ars Electronica (AE) where I had also had a very late brunch. AE was interesting and is essentially all about what computers and machines can do for us and artistic approaches to what they can do. It is otherwise rather difficult to describe the work there. A lot of it involved touch screens which were then reflected on projected displays. A little frustrating until you realised that the touch screen itself did not actually move etc. I have read that the mouse is dead they say and touch will very soon be all the go in computerland.

With all this I did arrive in Salzburg until 8pm. Due to a lack of street sign on the junction managed to walk about 4 streets past Markus Sittikus Str. before realising I had gone well too far and backtracked. The Hotel Markus Sittikus/street is actually named after one of the first bishops who lived in the very high castle fortress Festung Hohensalzburg built above Salzburg c.1100 (more on that later) – not sure why he needed to a street named after him then. Dinner was the order of the day so wandered towards the Altstadt/Old Town over the bridge over the Salzach river. As it was then almost 9.30pm I did wonder about my prospects even if the place is very touristy. Anyway came to some pavement tables in the Siegmund-Haffner-gasse (lane?). A man said you could eat in the hotel (the Elephant?) or good Italian/Mediterranean cuisine downstairs. This was S’Nockerl and if you ever get to Salzburg do try it cos the food was very good – I went there twice after all, as the 2nd and final night as well. It turned out the place had been only open 2 weeks – but I can tell you no teething problems there as the chef was knocking it out perfectly with a fine touch. Had a chat to him the 2nd night to complement him on the food. The first night I had a very nice cream of asparagus soup with a small ham dumpling along with some thinly sliced small potatoes. Then guinea fowl breast with tarragon sauce, some broccoli and some nice slightly crunchy (as it should be) carrot risotto. Completely kicking goals so far. Had a glass of Austrian chardonnay and then a big mistake – an espresso (what was I thinking – you know you can’t do this!).

Anyway back at the hotel sat in the living room downstairs chatting to this Indian lady who lived in Kuwait who was travelling with her two 20-something daughters. We swapped travel notes as she had already been to Krumlov and said I should go to Innsbruck – but it is too far (2hrs) west and I have to backtrack and no time for that. She had her laptop going on wifi (supposedly all over the hotel, which is a lie and only available downstairs). I could not get mine going – turned out later to be a simple password confusion – hello123 not hotel123.
Day 2 – 15 June – time to get serious about the sights as really one day to do it. Got a 24hr/one day ticket for 4.20E (a single trip is 2.10E so good value) from a tabak place at station then hopped on bus 2 which goes to the Schloss Hellbrunn which is famous for all the squirty fountains where you least expect it. This was apparently to avoid that dreadful affliction melancholy – so you made sure everyone else got wet from hidden water jets, you stayed dry and supposedly happier from laughing at them getting wet (is that how it works?). Anyway certainly a fair range of waterworks her eon the 40min. guided tour. Some rather large black sturgeon in the ponds – and trout and carp elsewhere in the garden ponds. Then back to town on the bus 25 and jumped off more or less below the aforementioned fortress Festung Hohensalzburg. Some side streets signposted the way to the funicular which goes up the very steep rock wall and is included in the 10.50E ticket price. It was interesting how with the competition between the Emperor and the Pope that bishops almost had to create such an impregnable fortress to protect themselves. The state rooms when you finally got to them were fairly impressive as you will likely see from pix. Back down to the Dom (cathedral) square and just wandered around a bit before going to the station on the bus to check out train times for tomorrow.

Then to the hotel to change – it was pretty hot today and I saw no prospect of any real cool down as I headed back to the S’Nockerl for a 2nd helping. This time sat at a table on the street – the décor downstairs was quite quirky, painted pale blue with the small chandelier style lights strung with threads and stiletto shoes etc and books on the Vespa and Fiat 500 on the shelf etc. However on a warm/mild night the lane was good. This time an even better lake fish soup – supposedly with saffron, but certainly with fennel fronds. Superb flavor – and unlike many soups not salty TG. Then the lamb rack, which was the most expensive thing on the menu at 21.80E (about $28). This was accompanied by a roasted pepper with diced peppers which was delicious, some maize and mash, and a very nice glass of a Toscana red. Even the side veges were all done so well. Had to try a dessert – although the trademark Nockerl – a local style of soufflé, is too large for one person and is more designed to be shared on a table. So I settled for a kirsch cherry sponge thing. All most excellent and I had to have a chat to the chef and complement him on his craft.

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Photos

S'Nockerln - weird chandelier
let's start (and finish) there

real lederhosen
and about 110E. too!

Schloss Hellbrun
a shelly grove

Staterooms detail
these are very AustrianViennese-water containers?

goldball sculpture (everyman)
in Dom Sqr

Dom Sqr carriage
always for the tourists with $$$

Salzach River at dusk
rather swift-flowing too

the hotel rubber duckie
for sale - incl. a lil black one..

the lamb rack at S'Nockerl
well worth it