we may have found paradise lost...

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Hello Friends,

We were awoken before 5 A.M. this morning by a man and a woman who were praying/mediatating/crying LOUDLY. We both put in ear plugs and attempted to go back to sleep. I went in to take a hot shower to discover that it wasn´t. Most of you who know me know that I hate cold water, but somehow I have become a bit more accustomed to it (there is no alternative other than being stinky, which I hate even worse than being cold).

Today was our journey of Lago Atitlan. Our boat was an old Winnebago, but at least it was crazy slow. We were being lapped by other boats and even taunted by their drivers. Our first stop was in San Pedro, a pretty little city with the usual indigenous folks as well as several old white men who seem to have gone native. Nicole and I were lured by the sounds of drums. We felt pretty sure we would find a Santa Barbara-like hippy drum circle at the end of the rainbow, but instead found a high school percussion band (with a few xylophones). They were actually pretty good, though there were obviously a few students (especially girls) who looked as if they´d rather be doing something else.

Our next port of call was Santiago, one of the biggest cities around the lake. We were immediately bombarded by little boys screaming at us and wanting to take us to see San Simon, their own local creepy effigy. After practically running away from the dock, we worked our way through the muddy, garbage laden lake shore to the city above it. The city was filthy, the people were not terribly friendly or helpful, and the drivers were dangerous. The one bright spot was our discovery of the large church built in the 1500´s. Inside was the story of the massacre of many of the village people by the Guatemalan government (in the 1980´s). Additionally, there was some kind of a ceremony for young, traditionally dressed girls who sang many songs while on their knees at the altar. Outside of the church was a carnival. The small ferris wheels were gas powered by a guy who started it with a key then proceeded to step on the gas or the brake. Another guy would throw himself on the spokes of the wheel to change its direction.

Our final destination was San Antonio, a very small village where Nicole was especially harrassed by women who simply would not take no for an answer. I think I was wearing my ¨Don´t fuck with me¨ face because I was mostly left alone. No such luck for Nicole. It was quite overwhelming and exhausting. All of the people were back on the boat before our time was up, so I think they felt the same way we did.

Since spending another night in our cold water, early A.M. prayer hotel was not an option, we jumped on another boat and headed for our current location, San Marcos. This place feels like another world entirely. It is clean, organic, eco-friendly, and PEACEFUL. Our hotel is made with organic, recycled materials and is a piece of art. I didn´t even mind (for once) sharing a bathroom with another room because this place is so clean. Nicole´s plan is to get a massage tomorrow, and I will be joining her for yoga at some point. I plan to read and do precious little else.

Love,
Mo

P.S. Baby is now the size of a large sweet potato! 😊

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