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Published: February 8th 2011
Well it´s been a few days since the last entry. Too off the beaten track for adequate internet access. We are well but tired. The roads to Comitancillo ( pronounced Komeentansee-o ) ( elevation 8,000 feet )are hairy aka windy and hair raising with some turns so tight a three point turn is needed. We happened to be passed by an ambulance way up there and arround the next corner the back door of the ambulance swung open. We had a laugh. We might survive the acciden but no the ambulance ride.
Four wheel drive is a must. The design of the road surface with rock and concrete sections assist during rainy season when they would be impassable if smooth. It took 3 hours from Xela to Comitancillo but we have had good driver thankfully.
I am telling you that in the last few days we have been to the top of the world, a world I never dream of seeing. We stayed in a classy new hotel that will never be completed. A bathroom and TV in each room, three beds to choose from. Wires drape everywhere and Jackie used his eyeglass strap to tie the wires away from the shower head. Yikes!
We are travelling with four other people. Jackie and Liz in particular have enough facility with Spanish to assist. The language of the people living in this aldea - region is Kiche, a Mayan dialect. The task at hand is to review stoves built in the past year and check them for quality control. The organization AMMID uses funds from the Stove Project and determines who needs stoves. It is always the most vulnerable, single moms, women who´s partners are away at the coast for the coffee harvest and on. It would take too long to describe their whole program but it is very impressive because it is run by the indigenous people and is the closest thing to a feminist organization in this land. I was impressed.
We have been accompanied by an AMMID rep and a wise beyond his 24 years Peace Corp fellow Charlie who´s been here for a year an a half. Working on aspects of the AMMID program. We visited the demonstration garden and Dona Hilda explained about the workshops to teach families about composting water catchment, filtering of gray water during the dry season, solar water heater for the shower and more. I was in my element. She talked about the organic pesticides used ( poisons are liberally used in the 3rd world on all massed produced food for export. One will think twice about buying cabbage and broccoli at Loblaws from now on. I actually got to share some thoughts on companion planting re: Nasturtiums that they noted. It was very cool. FYI They accept volunteers here to help...an 8 day minimum. The sleeping quarters are less than adequate but the price is right.
Friday we hiked for hours along dirt and rock paths ... very up and down, always with an amazing vista of valleys with farm and plots situated throughout and the back drop of volcanoes. The highest point in Central America, the volcan Tajumulco - 14,890 feet is in sight. We arrive at one of the remote homes with un estufa, a masonry stove.
We reviewed and photograghed 18 stoves. The names and ages of the whole family are documented. We found in a few places stove were built in cooking rooms with thatched rooves...a real no no for the obvious reason...fire risk. In a few cases they planned to replace the roof with tin but that costs. Some began using the stove before the exit pipe was installed...venting all the smoke into the room which obviously defeats the purpose of offering a stove to the family. Where we have been the family usually has a sleeping room and a cooking, eating room, not usually attached to each other.
This day reminded us of those very long canoe trip portages. Our tickers is indeed in good shape.
Saturday was a bit less strenous. We viewed 8 stoves in two different communities. At midday a lunchin Quexlemuj (pronounced Keshlemuh) was served at one of the homes by a group of members of the community. It was a delicious soup with beef, tomatoes and water cress along with tamalitos (sp?) made of soaked corn ground into paste. I found them tasteless and pastey but it was like a kreplach ( matzoh ball ) when added to the soup soaking up the flavour. There was ubiquitous terrific homemade hot salsa to add. We are a bit wary of eating food prepared in such simple conditions but one of AMMID´s program is health and proper sanitation so we dove in and all went well with our stomachs. We wash our hands a lot. Then came the important speaches to thank GSP and AMMID for the support to better their lives. One of the male leaders spoke about how grateful he was that the women have a bit less work to do because of the stoves. In a generally machismo society that is something to hear. After lunch I stumbled onto two large looms.
Our luck we got invited to visit the women´s weaving cooperative in Taltimiche. Charlie agreed to drive us. Now that was special. Hiking up and down to their two beautiful buildings filled with 45 inch and wider looms all warped with fine cotton threads. They gave a demo and on the complicated pieces two women work together: one throws the shuttle and the other works the harnesses.
The stamina of these people is amazing. No roads to their homes, water to haul, school a ways away. I have so much to tell, so little time. Jackie´s arrived. Time to good to shower after our first day of stove building in San Franscico El Alto. Wonderful. Love Joni
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Nancy Simpson
non-member comment
Glad to read about your visits
WOW, Joni, it sure sounds like you are having a fantastic trip. Missing being there something fierce. Enjoy it all, it is such an amazing place and you will bring back great memories. Love to get together once you are home to hear all about it.