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Published: December 11th 2008
Semuc Champey is without a doubt the most beautiful location we have visited so far in Central America, even an overcast sky could not detract from its beauty. The word beautiful actually seems like a lame way of describing it - the place is a natural wonder and I have never heard or read about a similar phenomenon.
The Rio Cahabon is a rushing gushing torrent of water, which thunders down from a picture perfect misty mountain valley covered in every shade of green imaginable. Then at Semuc Champey the river is suddenly gone, it disappears down through a hole deep, into darkness, into far inside the earth, into the underworld. My mouth gaped open in awe, almost dropping as wide as the subterranean tunnel entrance.
We walked on, over where the river logically should be, our bare feet gripping the porous limestone rock. It was like stepping from one world to another, a completely different landscape. The sky above our heads and the lush jungly vegetation on either side were the only continuous features. Here the confident roar of the river seemed distant and the sound was replaced by a sweet trickle of graceful streams tip-toeing down tiny
waterfalls, creating pools of clear inviting water.
We accepted the invitation and duly hopped in. The water was refreshingly cool, with the odd warm current. Although we were the only people swimming in the pool, we weren´t alone. Sandy coloured small fish and sparkly blue larger ones swam around our feet, darting away at the blink of an eye when our paths crossed.
This oasis of heavenly rock pools continues for about 300m or so, until the river reappears, reasserting its status as a dominant force through the valley. The river continues on as normal, as though nothing ever happened.
It was hard for me to get my head around what we´d just seen, and even harder when I had a bird´s eye view. We had climbed up the valley side through the forest up onto a wooden open box placed precariously on the edge of a cliff. Its a good hike, over slippy rocky paths and many wooden steps, but the effort was well worth it. Again we were the only people up at the mirador but we were not alone. No, there weren´t any fish up there - just freaky looking black insects which flew
around with gangly legs hanging down from their bodies. The lookout platform provides a perspective not possible down on the riverbank. From here, the blues and greens of the rockpools are more vibrant and more radiant, the disappearing river more astonishing. We sat amongst the trees, the butterflies and the birds, plus those weird black things, for almost an hour.
An American we met in Belize, who had visited Semuc Champey back in the 80s, told us of a theory that the limestone bridge was in fact man-made by the Mayans. This theory seems to me absolutely incredible, if not just plain impossible. Ned said he later read the theory was being investigated. I hope it turns out to be false. Ruins such as Chichen Itza and Tikal impressively demonstrate the engineering abilities and aesthetic sensibilities of the ancient Mayans. And why on earth would they decide to re-route a river underground for 300m? Somehow I think the mystery and wonder of Semuc Champey would be lost if it turned out to be a construction. I am most defininetly giving all the credit to mother nature.
And I know its turning into a bit of a One Way Supertramp mantra, but avoid the tour groups! Experienced knowledgeable guides are of course an exception, especially in archeolgical sites and when hiking mountains. But jumping on a bus with locals from Lanquin to Semuc Champey was far more interesting plus missing the big tour buses ensured we essentially had the place to ourselves. Magic.
From Jess
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Joy
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Semuc Champey
Sounds fascinating,wiil have to do your trip one day.I think we''ll find alternative accommodation though-the 'pee photo ' raises lots of questions but I won't ask !!