In the mangroves of Monterrico


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Published: September 13th 2009
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I crossed the border sat in the back of Manolo's jeep feeling a little worse for wear after last night's party. I could have stayed in Tacuba much longer just chilling at Mamas y Papas and exploring El Impossible. But the clock is ticking and I need to get a move on, at the 10 month mark already!

First stop back in Guatemala is the sleepy and inaccessible village of Monterrico. Despite being quiet it's one of the most popular spots on the Pacific coast, only a couple of resorts manage to find a pretty location on this sun beaten side of the country. the waves are forceful, the riptide deadly and the sand is a foot scorching shade of black - three reasons why I chose to lounge by the pool instead. Johnny's Place is a bit of a destination for rich Guate weekenders, spending time here was more like being on a package holiday rather than backpacking ie. a pleasant change! We were looking forward to the promised party at the weekend but torrential storms and power cuts put a bit of a dampener on things. So we spent a couple of hours trying to catch a photo
Margarita's breakfast specialMargarita's breakfast specialMargarita's breakfast special

That's refried beans, beefburger, green beans fried in egg, fried platano and cream...calorie city..I know!
of lightning flashes on the brooding grey horizon. Fantastic to watch but the electric storm proved too elusive to snap.

At 5.30am one morning we toured the mangrove swamps to witness dawn rise on the waterways, watching it come alive with birds leaving the roost looking for the first catch of the day. This stretch of coast line is prime site for turtle nesting and most of it is protected marine reserve. That unsurprisingly does not stop the ignorant poacher from searching out baby turtles and eggs illegally. The lights on the beach front places are supposed to be dimmed at this time to allow the baby turtles to find their way to the sea (they follow the reflection of the moon on the water). Unfortunately this is only observed by some, another example of the typical attitude toward animal welfare in developing countries.

This is the sort of place where you soon start to feel at home as you get to know the smiling faces at the shops and restaurants. The lovely Margarita got happier and cheerier as I brought more and more friends to eat at her simple stove.


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