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Published: February 21st 2007
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Entrena 1
Our Training Center, which could double as a Buddhist spa/retreat Buenos chicos, llege al Caribe. And the colors here really let you know exactly where you are. I’ve found myself on just staring at a sky that carries a rich and heavy blue, almost fluorescent; and the color of the sea is tinged with the same radiance. However, should you step out of the shade at all, sentiments of aesthetic appreciation are quickly tempered by the burning light of the star that gives the island its color and beauty - not to mention the enormous amount of trash that decorates most of the streets. Yesterday, I went for a walk along a main highway whose shoulders are full of ramshackle businesses selling lottery tickets, phone cards, cooked meats, beer, batidos (fruit shakes) - but it’s also scattered with massive trucks, tires, all kinds of rusty remnants of industry. Yet, the smiles on most of the people, the way they greet each other - which involves yelling from the moment they make eye contact to much after the slamming hugs and noisy kisses - and the constant music, all of it blasting as loud as must possible: all of it really makes the trash and chaos seem equally beautiful.
Maybe I’ve
Entrena 2
One of the two large meeting halls. lowered my standards upon arrival, or maybe they haven’t been as inclined toward rectilinear sterility for some time, or maybe I came in expecting much worse - whatever the case, my current living and working situation seems to me pretty great. True, running water has been scarce of late and there’s never electricity during the day; but every house comes equipped with a giant container of water on the roof, a tinaco, and my family is fortunate enough to have an inversol, which is a set of large batteries that charge when there’s power, and then supply enough for lights, TV, and fridge during the daily blackouts. I also live in one of the nicer barrios, filled with tiny manicured lawns behind elegant sliding gates. Most of the small houses are well-painted and well-kept, decorated with aging but nice wooden furniture inside, and white rocking chairs outside (these people can’t sit still). And my room is more than adequate with a full size bed, a dresser, table and chair, a large closet, and even a mini-fridge I have yet to use - which feels a bit strange when my 2 host brothers, Róbert y Mélvin, share a room and a
Entrena 3
A typical small classroom bed, while my doña does the same with her two small daughters.
Like all Dominicans, my host family is incredibly welcoming and caring, and giving to the point of ridiculousness; the catch is you’re expected to do the same, which just means: if you have it, give or share; if you’re invited, attendance is mandatory…and never leave your toothbrush in the bathroom. I’m also doubly fortunate that I didn’t get stuck with an anti-alcohol, anti-dancing, Evangelical doña - then the only dancing I’d be doing is at a 4 hour church service on Sundays, drunk only by the power of El Espiritu Santo. Instead, Róbert y Mélvin have been showing me the basics of barrio nightlife. This past Friday night we visited Mickey’s hamburguesa stand because he had his weekly special of 3 for 100 pesos (3 USD); and with the colmado (deli) blasting samba, merengue, and bachata this turns into quite the block party. And this past Saturday, I went to una competencia de vehiculos extremamentes modificados y de musica interior - what I’d call a “pimped-out car and loud music competition” - followed by a dance party at a plaza, a.k.a. the parking lot of a shopping
Entrena 4
More Training Center - part of the main building. center.
I’m also adapting quickly to the 4 C’s of Dominican culture:
Compartir - Just as they share everything material, a majority of the day is spent sharing time and conversation, and this is the word they use to refer to this continuous activity.
Chisme - This truly is the national sport; everyone talks about everyone. About 5 minutes after first meeting my doña, she began telling me about my host brothers’ girlfriend situation. In fact, chismiando is so well-loved, people often offer some about themselves.
Confianza - All relations are dictated by levels of confianza toward one person or another; however, this it seems you got to do something to lose this, rather than gain it. If you dress well, smile, and are polite, people start offering you privileges that in America we only bestow on our best friends.
Coro - Inherently a celebratory gathering, but used here to designate a gathering of 4 or more where alcohol is involved. This offered the least resistance to adaptation.
A Few of My Favorite Things:
1) Bathing involves a 5 gallon paint bucket and a Clorox bottle cut in half - depending on how
cold the water is, this is either refreshing or cardiac arrest inducing.
2) Though they’re incredibly educados - well-mannered and hospitable - these aren’t the most learned people, and yet in one of the many conversations between my doña and I, she casually mentions the human impact on the global climate like the common sense that it is.
3) In the two or three large gatherings I’ve been to - of hundreds of people, the largest - it’s odd to see no one smoking. I have yet to figure out why. Everytime I mention this to Róbert, he doesn’t seem to notice and just suggests we have one ourselves.
4) I met a Dominican joven who rips the filter off a cigarette before he smokes it because since it turns brown and yellow, it’s got to be bad for you.
5) I woke one morning to find my familia’s poor little perrito being attacked by a ganga of 5 gallinas. Being only a puppy, he didn’t stand a chance, and we were forced to intervene with a broom handle. Well, actually I intervened, since in the DR, nobody really believes animal have to potential to suffer.
Overlooking My Barrio
The mountains to the north. That nature has imparted them with motion is just an invitation to throw rocks at them - like a little game Dios invented for his people.
6) And the public transport is awesome. It’s much more complicated to hail a carro publico than a New York cab. There are all these hand-signs you have to give to indicate where you want to go as well as knowing how to read the signs the driver’s giving as he zooms down the street. The whole venture of getting around becomes a social undertaking, with strangers constantly talking chatting each other up on guas-guas (minibuses). It’s crazier than I can now describe.
Well, I hope to write again soon - something more interesting than an overview. Leave me questions or comments if you’ve got ‘em. Or mandamen un email compadres. Hasta luego.
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Meghan Cass
non-member comment
I am so pleased
...to hear that you are enjoying yourself. It's great that you set up this blog, I look forward to all future entries. And you have no idea how those pictures brightened up my day. Seriously bright. You are living the mamis and papis life and it is perfect. Adina and Steph arrive tomorrow in London, think of us -- we'll be doing the same. MUCH LOVE, Meg