Cuba Part 3: Camaguey and Santiago de Cuba - 2 very different cities

---

April 2
Was about a 4 hour run through to Camaguey, where we were staying in a hotel for a change. Usual orientation walk after lunch then coffee in the square with our group. Ordering coffee can be interesting in different countries, what you get can be totally different to what you think you order! Here a latte was a small cup of black coffee! Blu and I needed to find an ATM, this proved to be another Cuban experience, when we finally found one, we had to wait in line for over half an hour! Stuff we take for granted at home is not here, no Wifi, ATMs only in large cities,and to use the Internet you go to a government agency and show your passport before you can buy a card to use the computer. Went out for dinner with the Mansfields, Sue and Mark, found a great place with $1 (US) cocktails! Cheapest in Cuba so far. Took full advantage of that! Blu and I shared paella, a massive plate for 8 US$. Ambled home.
April 3
Did a tricycle tour of Camaguey's historic centre in morning (we sat in the tricycle taxi powered by the taxi driver's legs!),our local guide showed us different plazas, churches, and provided a history of the city - we visited several art galleries, the local market, and a cafe highly decorated with mosaic tiles. Camaguey has many art galleries and some wonderful sculpture artists live in the city. We particularly enjoyed visiting the studio of Martha Jiminez). Had a picnic lunch of pizza and fruit in our hotel foyer. In the late afternoon, Blu and I visited the local museo of anthropology, had a personal tour in Spanish with much gesturing etc, was good fun and we probably understood about half of it! Called into a local cafe for a coffee where 6 people took part in preparing and serving our coffee! After about 15 mins, they came out with 2small cups of black coffee, and 2 larger cups of hot milk, and aqui, cafe con leche! Met the others for dinner at Carmens, same place as last night, I tried a traditional dish called roja vieja which literally means old clothes, sounded weird but is actually shredded beef in a very tasty herb/onion sauce. Blu, being less adventurous, had garlic prawns and salad. After dinner, went to a Jazz Club, great music. Have developed a taste for rum - their piña coladas were yum!
April 4
Today was a long drive to Santiago de Cuba, about 7 hours. Roads were quite rough, but Ivan is an excellent driver. Stopped for a quick lunch at a El Rapido, food was not good, had a ham and cheese bun, but felt crook afterwards. Our homestay here was with Carmen and Jorge - Carmen was our first host that spoke English, but Jorge learnt Russian not English at school, so he had no English. After the revolution many students learnt Russian as the USSR was very friendly with Castro. Our city orientation walk finished at the square, were lots of beggars asking for money or soap. Soap thing is a hangover from when Cubans couldn't get basics like soap, pens, pencils, food....In the 1990s, when Russia withdrew its support of Cuba, people were basically starving, they were terrible times by all accounts. Went for a drink on the terrace of Hotel Casa Grande - great view over the bay and the city. After dinner at our home stay, went for a beer with Ivan and David at a music club. Santiago de Cuba has an interesting mix of people than other Cuban cities, lots of migrants from Haiti and Afro-Caribbean people.
April 5
Spent the day in Santiago de Cuba, visited an important Cuban cemetery where lots of famous people are buried, including several Cuban heroes from the revolution. National hero Jose Marti's mausoleum was a highlight, his casket (draped solemnly in a Cuban flag) is positioned to receive daily shafts of sunlight, in a poem Marti wrote I would like to die not as a traitor in darkness, but to face the sun. A round-the-clock guard of the mausoleum is changed with pomp and ceremony every 30 minutes. Next,visited El Morro Castle on the headland, then off to the pool - S de C is a very hot humid city, so we spent a few hours enjoying the pool with the kids (big and not so big!). Group dinner at base house, amazing spread, all cooked in-house. Off to Baracoa tomorrow.

---

Photos

Twins? Original subject sitting with his image!
Only in Cuba

Cafe Toilet
only in Camaguey! A very arty place

Blu's new line of perfume in Cuba
shop display window