Koobah

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We have had what feels like a full day already here in Santiago de Cuba, but it's only 3PM. After a busy morning touring the historic district and Morro Castle (which looked very similar to one my youngest daughter and I had climbed through in San Juan, Puerto Rico), we are having a bit of downtime; then we're heading back out to explore Cuba's second largest city some more, go to a nightclub, the Casa de la Trova, maybe (hopefully) dance, and then have dinner here in this beautiful 5 star hotel, the Melia Santiago de Cuba. I guess we're all still a bit worn out from yesterday's long travels, but there's no time zone change this time, for me at least. Our guide, Emilio, is older, very kind and knowledgeable, and working with a younger Cuban guide, Eddy, who is also an excellent teacher, and required by the government to accompany our tour. So basically (luckily) we have two guides, one American and one Cuban, and thus can be offered two sides of whatever stories we hear. The truth might be somewhere in the middle, or perhaps nowhere at all, but we'll have lots of information offered to reach our own conclusions.

Cuba's countryside is lush and green, but I am surprised by the lack of birds. So far I've seen many many turkey vultures and a few as yet unidentified smaller black birds, but no songbirds, but we have just entered this country so I'll keep looking and listening. We all flew into Holguin from Miami last night; it was pouring as we landed. I thought what a way to be welcomed into Cuba, all of us and our luggage soaking wet, but the airline staff handled getting us onto busses and into the dry airport very well. After climbing down the thankfully covered portable stairway, we found staff right out there, holding large umbrellas sort of over us as we passengers dashed into the crowded busses. This was no gentle shower; it was a drenching tropical downpour!

Going through customs and passport control is rarely if ever pleasant, and somehow those of us who wanted to stay with our new group picked the slowest line. After the "People to People" program closed a few months ago it became harder for US citizens to travel to Cuba, but Vantage has a special visa; we are all travelling under an Educational or Student group visa. This is fine, as I try to absorb as much as possible about people, cultures, everything I can learn when I travel anyway, but it seemed unfamiliar to the officer processing our line. The couple ahead of me had a very trying time; she later told me she thought they wouldn't let her enter Cuba! At first the officer seemed upset that both husband and wife wanted to go through together, common in entering many countries; perhaps this spurred his anger. He sent the husband back to wait his turn in line. In trying to question her, this officer became more and more flustered, glancing around apparently looking for help. Then, strangely, he beckoned for me to come to his booth. Pointing at myself and making a questioning expression, he nodded yes, so I went over. My Spanish is at a toddler's level, and his English was about at the same. But I answered all his questions about our group, what cities we would visit (that I could remember at that point), where and when we would leave, why we were there. He finally seemed satisfied and motioned for me to return back to my place in line. The woman finally got through. But before she was finished I noticed many other booths had no lines at all, so I told my new companions I was going to the next booth over and left them. The female officer there seemed much more composed, actually smiled during our interview, and I was through very quickly, well before the woman's husband in my former line had processed through. The good news is that eventually we all were permitted into Cuba. This situation was not as hair-raising as entering Russia had been, but the need to control, intimidate, and strike fear into people's hearts seemed the same, at least with this one young officer. This was their country, not ours. We would learn to obey and follow their rules or else. They have the power. We got the message. It would have been very helpful had Emilio been there to ease our way through. Where was he?

Even at that small airport at Holguin, collecting luggage took awhile for the group, but this time I travelled lightly, bringing only a carryon and a backpack. Such freedom from long waits at baggage claims! No worries of luggage being lost! It felt very fine to travel with minimal stuff, but we'll see how that works out after two hot weeks.

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Comments

[Thelma Rea]

Entering Cuba
It reminds me of our difficulty entering Uzbekistan. But the trip should be very interesting. Sue and I leave for Africa tomorrow.