SURVIVING THE HURRICANE 2005

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Thurs, June 30th
Arrived 4hrs early @O’Hare STILL a traffic AND people jam!
I'll never reveal what I paid for this cab to the airport.
Nevertheless, time to walk NOT RUN to gate for boarding @6:24pm.
Even had time to gain ‘cool points’ for wearing this cap I was able to purchase in the Loop.
On plane @O'Hare-Poor kid seated behind my row never did stop fidgeting & crying......actually guessed this by passengers facial expressions beside me.......
....You know....BOSE® noise canceling headsets are worth pure gold!!....never in-the-air without em’!
Thinking on my research at 30,000 feet, what I may be able to accomplish, what new videography I will have privilege to shoot.....what new source/contacts I’ll meet.......MOSTLY, where I’ll stay, as these individuals (outside of being friends of certain Cuban e-mail acquaintance/friends) are total strangers who are being nice to me.

The last time I stayed (with a research group) at the hotel I’ll lodge tonight, Mexican President Fox had won elections and people reveled ALL NIGHT, providing me with the opportunity of ‘priceless’ inner-city Cancun b-roll footage.
Wonder what I’ll see this time in 12hrs.
Arrived Cancun without incident 11:30PM....just one thing, customs checked items indented for Cuba (medicine, pills, etc.) given to me by others...also asked why I had so many video cameras...three including the digital snapshot that also does video!

Fri, July 1st
Finally @hotel 12:45AM.
Had no intentions of securing anything fancy for a one-night-stay w/o family and on business....and, trust me, its a room w/a bed! (no to complain, though, its small but clean)
Browsed through the 40 or so channels here.
Up @9AM to discover after rechecking luggage that I either forgot an important item of medicine for a friend or it was taken in customs or stolen. Do remember customs inquiry about the contents of my ‘care-items’ bag arriving last night.
Hmmmmm....
Maybe I just left it in the car at home,....we’ll see.

Now comes the hard part at Cancun Int’l...finding the middleman agent I am to get my tickets from for CUBANA Airlines. I’m going to eat first.

Got tickets--on ‘standby’ (don’t know how that happened) but left @3:30PM Air Caribbean/CUBANA, after repurchasing multivitamins for intended recipient at the airport pharmacy ($42 USD)
Again, thank GOD for BOSE® noise canceling headsets on this turboprop Air Caribbean flight!
Arrived Havana 5:45PM and was unusually ˆquickˆthrough the customs process...(maybe they've seen me so many times already)
No problem through customs with my ‘care’ packages/personals/pharmaceuticals.
My hotel ‘contact’ did not recognize me, so I waited for about an extra half hour at the Jose Marti airport entrance. Finally we approached each other, after I went back inside......explanation: she thought I was a fat man in the e-mail JPEG I’d sent...not regular sized....

Taxi to casa particular - driver not accepting Canadian dollars. Have figured this trip, I will have some money difficulties! Met Emilina owner of another casa...mine is one block away from the Plaza De Revolucion. Excellent area & view of the Plaza.
To hotel exchange Canadian dollars to Cuban Pesos. Am not really understanding this exchange rate.
Walked/taxi to Abraham Lincoln hotel to visit home of medicine recipient, thru ‘Old Havana’ change Canadian money to Convertible Cuban Pesos.
Back to casa particular on foot.
Yes, Mr. Stupid...., I locked myself out @12:30pm...but owner of home nice,came to assist @1:30am after call placed by my host...bed FINALLY @2am.
Heard air conditioner cease at around 4:30 or 5am due to ‘rolling-blackout’ to save power. This happens quite frequently in Cuba.

Sat, July 2nd
up at 9:45am.....to casa de Emilina first-met cliff from U.K. attending U.Havana....then to monument in Plaza de Revolucion, to top. Excellent b-roll footage in of all four directions.
To casa de Hemmingway, where the charge was $25 for pictures; $50 for video; and (I kid you not) $250 per hr for professional videography! The guides were nice and let me tape anyway, in some places with police not looking.
My only ‘rip-off’ was the $25 cab ride there! Though, it is true that prices for most things have gone up tremendously since last visit here. We took the ‘camel’ back...the elongated airport transfer/people mover bus that is pulled by a semitrailer truck, and holds about 300 people. Acted ‘Cuban’ so there were no problems!*
Rainy drizzle for remainder AFTER hard thunderstorm at casa de Hemmingway.
Bought light groceries for dinner & breakfast tonight and tomorrow. Power outage again @8pm until about 8:15pm.
Bed after rearranging/packing luggage and eating.

Sun, July 3rd
Up again @10am...walk to Hotel Nacional and Havana Libre for cash advances.....it is true, absolutely no U.S. credit card is honored in Cuba at all! Oh well.....Good thing I do have friends here!
In 2000, I don’t remember hotel Internet access.
In 2001, I toured an elementary school with limited resources, but they had a computer room with some software available for about eight PCs.
2002, there was Internet access at the hotel across the street...but not in my hotel
2003, Internet access arrived at the hotel we always lodge at in Santiago.
2004, my first (in a series, I’m sure) of lodging experiences amongst indigenous Cubans left me without Internet access as Cuban citizens as-of-yet have no personal Internet access BUT they may use it in limitation in universities and some hotels & businesses.
Prepared to leave, after walk back thru Havana U. Spoke w/Cliff-adult student from UK/Holland about U.S. policy and such...was very impressed at my ‘load’ teaching @college & elementary level;wk in television industry;editor-at-home freelance;and, world traveler as well as student (NLU). There are times I am impressed myself that I haven't passed out!
Almost missed my tour bus, in fact Cuban travel attendant flagged it down just in time. Now 6:15 is what I was told as the loading time...leaving @7pm. Cuban time is either waaaaay to late or waaaaay to early.
Great scenery on tour bus...was persuaded to travel by bus instead of the unreliable trains.
Saw the southern night sky....I declare, more stars than I have ever seen in my life! Actually saw the Nebulae,...that's the cloud you think you see that's always there on a rare starry night, but in actuality is about a billion-billion more stars!
Bus stopped in these little colorful no-electricity (some) towns,but no beggars or sellers just quietness. Wow, the passengers probably thought my neck was broken...just kept looking at sky at each stop!
We were served a sandwich and a cola for this 12 hr ride.
Still enjoyed it!

Mon, July 4th
Didn't barbecue, grill, do fireworks, or wave flag like you may have. Arrived in Santiago @7am and host along w/spouse picked me up @ station. Explained my money situation and they promptly assisted me in finding help first @the hotel I used to stay in...then by suggesting Western Union....thats right, you heard correctly....WESTERN UNION is here in Cuba.
Call Chicago to arrange same with wifey. Will not worry further! Nice casa particular I am at today in the Vista Alegre section, where all the homes of the former rich were prior to 1959.
Architecture here is pure artwork. After coffee, went w/host first to the Festival headquarters, then on to National Theater for the introductory meetings till 11AM. Have been told I must pay btwn $60 & $80 for a badge to gain access to these meetings.
Have decided not to attend any meetings, but attend the evening performances and day ceremonies like I've done for the last six years but with a badge which seems so difficult now to obtain!
You must understand, when I come to Cuba (or any other country where there is greater hardship) I come to be a help, not a hindrance. Always: bring items of medicine, clothing, supplies, and such to aid those I know in schools, a church, and a synagogue here. I don’t come to exploit anyone, be it woman, child, or man. Therefore, I have big problems with being asked to pay certain amounts/fees as if I am “the Ugly American”!
Thanks for hearing that sermon that you didn't know you were going to hear.

Walked back from National Theater with new friend Alberto, who is acting as a translator at the Festival. He speaks good English. Went to my casa first, to get more film, then onward to his mom’s place near me. Very hospitable didn’t-ask-for-a-dollar kind of individual, who offered me a place at his lunch table prepared by his mom. I cleaned my plate of fish and bowl of rice! Went on to Casa Caribe, which is a performing center for the Festival. Saw/taped first of research footage...Haitian religious dance (no animal sacrifice). Onward to the Santiago School of Performing Arts (specific name later), but refused entry as a foreigner-namely an American one. Since November, U.S. dollars have been banned...and with that, tighter restrictions on what can be shown/exposed to non-Cubans with stiff penalties for indigenous violators. No means no a little more firm this year to certain visitors in Cuba!
Did the Cuban transportation way and hitched a motorcycle ride to main friend's home in the poorer Antonio Maceo district, to see my old friend Alcides. “Acted” Cuban again...which, for me, means dressing-down, saying few words with accent, and removing all jewelry/’tourist’ items. PRESTO!...I’m Cuban, if I mainly just keep quiet and blend!
Alcides Coello is my ‘contact’ in Cuba, having shown me the ways of the street in much the same way as Artful Dodger in Dickens “Oliver Twist”. Through Alcides, I have traveled throughout Santiago and several other provinces for a third what it would cost me as a tourist. Furthermore, through his unbinding hospitality without strings, I have seen places that are not even in a travel booklet and thus have obtained priceless footage and interviews with Cuban citizens.
I was blessed to have dinner w/his mom and brother.
Motorcycled back to National Theater (paid for by Al) and saw/taped about 15 live performances of participating artists from Venezuela, Canada, Mexico, Haiti, Brazil, nations in Africa, Europe and from other countries, until about 11pm...at which time the final performance from the honoree nation, Venezuela, danced/paraded off the stage, into the seating, out the door with audience in tow, and proceeded to the street which was hastily blocked off from motor traffic to accommodate the throng. I joined in and filmed this joyous midnight spectacle of Carnival-like impromptu singing and dancing until around 12:30AM. In the six years I have been attending this event, I've never seen a demonstration like the one tonight.
Returned to casa and slept about 2AM until....

Tues., July 5th
Woke up at about 9:30AM. Coffee from host and checked Western Union by his phone, to learn arrangements of money-ending/receiving.
Onward to see my Cuban elementary school principal and teacher friends, who I visit and bring supplies to every year since 2000. Great adulation at my presence. Stayed until about 11:30am, but will return Wednesday with my laptop and pictures of my family they have requested. Was limited in what I could bring this time, but left them with about 100 pencils & pens.
Back to casa to ‘switch’ casas...Al picked me up to take to place I arranged for last year...with great view of harbor and Siestra Madre Mountains (that means a view to die for!).
Arrived at new casa in Central City Santiago...the view....priceless!
To Western Union to check on money ...... not there. Noticed gathering crowd near plaza of Hotel Casa Grande, to discover a parade of all Festival participants will occur @5PM or so. Back to casa to get camera and ‘official’ looking IDs in my possession, so as not to take any chances of being barred from taping as an official participant.
WOW! What footage I got, right in the area of the dignitaries (but not Fidel) to view the entire pageant as it passed me by. Again, the Caribbean Cultural Festival celebrates the time in Santiago (the most African rooted part of Cuba) where the slaves had a day of rest annually about this same time many years ago. Carnival, which follows during July 21st, continues that celebration. It is then that Fidel will be here to address the people also for the 490th birthday of the city (Chicago is only 168 years old). Participants from the various countries marched and displayed their cultural contributions for nearly a full mile down the narrow European-designed streets. The culminating event was, again as on Monday night, the honoree nation Venezuela, whose elaborate costumed ‘diablo’ chased revelers with jets of fire preceded by festive dancers, musicians, masqueraders, and a 11 year-old boy completely oiled w/black polish who bounded impishly around. The event lasted until about 8:30-9PM, at which time I returned to this casa and typed my entries...bedding after a thorough dual shower/clothes washing.

Wed, July 6th
Yes, believe it!...I got up at the unheard of hour of 4AM to hear.....total silence! For a Chicagoan, this was quite unique. Not to waste the time, I seized the moment and walked through the central city to the elementary school of my teacher friends at about 5:30AM arriving at approximately 6:45AM taping an awakening city as I walked. There I showed them iPHOTO JPEGs of my family members, including but not limited to wife & kids. The faculty at the school was fascinated, both at the beautiful pictures and the iBOOK computer technology. Walked on to the casa of Monday but owner not home. I purchased my return Viazul luxury coach ticket back to Havana before returning to the casa. Met Al on the way back, who provided my breakfast of street pizza and soft drinks. Cuban pizza consists of a baked bread-cake (like unto a triple thick pancake) with goat cheese and possibly another type melted on. Its actually quite good/filling but it isn't CONNIE'S!
After preparing, set off for El Morro Castle for my annual (further) documentation. Perhaps if I received funding or had the means or weren't as restricted as a U.S. citizen, as opposed the policies of other countries regarding Cuba, I could have obtained all the information I needed in a three to six month stay. Nevertheless, I, thus far, have gathered just about all I need this trip with certainty that I will get the rest by journeys end. Very fulfilling time at El Morro, preceded by ferrying to small island groups of quaint towns surrounding this circa.1640 castle hewn from rock for the Spanish conquerors by black Cuban slaves. I always have a sobering meditative experience here. This history of Cuba involves the ‘mix’ of Spanish, Portuguese, French, English, and Americans with the native Cubans predating the 1400’s. It is a brutal and violent history that begot the current Republic. It is this that I research as it applies to the social, economic, political, religious, and educational systems in place here now.
Time to wash all of ‘today’ off and lay down before I fall down! Called Tina to receive no answer. Will check in morning. Also called the international Cuban sculptor Alberto Lescay. May be riding w/him to Cimmeron in El Cobre, about 15 miles away. There is always a special ceremony that has, in past times, amounted to the highlight of the Festival. We shall see.
Host family here, providing the casa, is very hospitable. Husband & wife, toddler son and grandmother are the main occupants.
Have given away several articles of my own clothing (as I always do), as well as cassette tapes of my personal music & inspiration (for my English-speaking friends). I will return much lighter!

Thurs, July 7th
Hurricane Dennis hit...its edge anyway, in Santiago. The Festival has been canceled/stopped. As I walked to the home of Lescay, I saw with my own eyes great branches snapped and even a large tree toppled just yards ahead of me on the sidewalk! Here is not as bad as in La Tuna and other provinces of Cuba which have been hit pretty hard. Understand Jamaica is being pounded badly. Also heard that there was a devastating bombing in London at an Underground. I may not be able to leave in time as planned, however God rules! Walked on, in the midst of this upcoming hurricane, to the artist Alberto Lescay’s home. Branches and foliage debris litter every street. For sure, the festival has been canceled, as he informed me as such and no Cimmaron ceremony at El Cobre because of the storm, where they was to be more cultural dance, religion, and possibly a sacrifice. Was gracious to ride me back to my casa, as I was going to Cimmeron with him today.
Great rains and lightning did abound from the early evening until bedtime for me at 9:30pm.. Several power blackouts did accompany this natural wonder, as bomb-sounding thunder was preceded by spectacular lightning nonstop all nigh! Was awakened at 3:18AM to massive roof-shaking thunder and bright flashes of lightning as I described. Am now wondering if this will, or can, get worse! I can hear tiles breaking on surrounding roofs and with great force the winds blowing whatever is not fastened. In my lifetime I can now boast that I have slept during a hurricane and seen with my eyes its destructive character. ...And this is just the edge passing over Santiago as Dennis passes the entire island. What if it were the center? My God!! I’m sure if this were the very heart of this cyclone (as the people here are calling it) I’d, by now, be pondering ‘unfinished business’ as one would do when there is possibility of death! Went back to sleep under sound of driving rains and powerful winds.

Fri, July 8th
Still raining HARD @9AM! Will this stop? My gracious host family, realizing I can no longer go out for food has prepared breakfast (dinner last night as well). More travelers arrive to lodge at this casa, as a group on sail to Panama from Canada had fortunately received word yesterday morning of the hurricane and sought harbor in Cuba as the closest port. They are here today after one night in a hotel. As Canadians, they had their Ambassador in Santiago meet them at the wharf.
Have now called two individuals to pick up packages from the CAM whom I have carried packages of medicine for. Met both between 10:30AM and 11:30AM and were gracious recipients. CAM is the Cuban-American Jewish Mission. I learned about them after my second trip here in 2001, after conducting an interview with the acting-rabbi.
Raining stopped about Noon, have stepped out to visit some friends at several places I have been on prior trips here. Dropped a package of cassette tapes and address labels for some, and picked up items at the casa I was at on Monday. On return, after b-roll atop the Melia Santiago Hotel, was beckoned by a friend from the Hebrew temple in Santiago, who aided me greatly w/$40! Even here, where there is no recognized religion, God is with me and is providing for me. I am not alone!! Returned to casa to dine with host family and newly arrived guests. Have said good-byes to host family now, to go to home of my good friend (who, incidentally, gave me his room while he cavorts with foreign women tonight!). So be it....stiil my best friend in Cuba. Fidel back on national television for updates on the hurricane which has now reached Habana.

Sat, July 9th
Most uncomfortable sleep....incessently barking dogs, itchy mattress, significant power outage...... Don’t know how my friend sleeps like this at all!!! Had to walk around Santiago just once more.......so, after waking in my friends room of his mom’s home, I was escorted to the motorcycle-taxi area where I received a ride to the bus station. Decided to check my bags and do Internet in Central City. Sent e-mails to NLU during class session (hope they all received!). Got a little sick beforehand necessitating stops at National Theater and returning again to the bus depot....Whew!! (note to self: Don’t over eat foods foreign to your stomach, trying to hospitable even if you are hungry as a goat).
Returned to Alameda to view dismantling of the already destroyed wood & straw frame of ‘el diablo’, which was to be burned following the elaborate parade and ceremony that the hurricane interrupted. Caught footage of boys diving @ harbor.
Walked onward to Santiago train station and proceeded down the tracks through rural N.W. Santiago, which amounted to a 2hr walk (...and stop due to getting sick again. Finally arrived @Viazul trans-Cuban bus terminal, behind the Plaza de la Revolucion. Was sure to get a good seat, after using facilities to wash my shoes-feet-and legs.
Slept straight through till about 2:30AM, from leaving terminal 6pm, but still got some nice scenery footage, which bus/train trip was all about to begin with. Passed many towns and cities hit by Hurricane Dennis, to see the destructive aftermath.
Am most comfortable on this bus with iPOD & iBOOK & other traveling tools. Guess we’ll get to Havana on time.....can’t see a thing!!!

Sun, July 10th
Arrived Havana not only on time but an hour early! How, on slippery roads and night driving, I don’t know, but the driver was going faster that usual (I could feel). What a surprise. I thought it was 4AM, due to watch reset. Didn't get a meal on this bus, but is okay due to time we picked up arriving! Shared cab w/two U.K. girls here for Festival but didn't see anything, due to cancellation by Hurricane Dennis. Now realizing how blessed I was to arrive at the right time and leave at the right time, to get full benefit of my trip here. Reorganize/packed bags. Customs not stamping passports this year for U.S. Have detected a wee bit of coldness towards those with U.S. citizenship. Flight delayed 1hr 30min.
Met Joseph Delord, resident of Playa de Carmen, Cancun....invited me to forgo my plans and join him in this town...was best advice for me!!! We almost missed the flight out of Habana, except for a courteous passenger who informed us. What's odd is that I'd just ask the attendant @information about the flight delay, and was told there was still no information. LIKE I said.....a certain 'coldness' this year!
After coach ride 60km from Cancun Int'l (joe foot the $65 & $10 taxi bill!), got nice cheap hotel room for $40...walked around most beautiful shops including his leather jewelry shop...walked to beach...got food....purchased souveniers....met individuals....much better time than I would have had in central city Cancun (where I don’t think I’ll stay again!) All the shopkeepers want this cap I’m wearing! ...are calling out prices to me as I walk by. Was offered a ‘treat’ by one vendor and escorted to a store counter, where with my own eyes I saw (and was offered) straight ‘coke’ cocaine in a little bag. One white teen ‘customer’ was just leaving. Said firm no! and left quietly and quickly.....to resume the rest of my browsing on this most interesting brightly lit, crowded tourist strip.
Finally figured was caused my illness last couple of days ago...with the frequent power outages occurring in Santiago, there was food served that was tainted and not thrown away as it should have been. Some others I spoke with also became sick within their last days in Cuba as well. Ate pizza...bed 11PM.

Mon, July 11th
Up@6:50AM, missed sunrise, but have decided to go to Tulum. ‘Checked’ out by leaving key in locked room! ‘Found’ cab with very nice, hospitable, English-speaking, driver. To Tulum for $35 and back to aeropuerto for $70. Saw the best sights and scenery and ruins at Tulum, not far from Xcaret where we were last year w/entire family. Great b-roll footage, exactly as I had planned and foreseen. Many individuals commenting about ‘Las Chipas’ soccer shirt I’m wearing here. Began to rain just as I got back in taxi to return to airport. To Cancun Int’l as 11:30AM...long line but moved quickly. Bought Dominoes pizza & Baskin Robbins shake (good ole’ U.S. food) for plane back to Chicago...left approx. 1:15PM American Airlines,...after buying final souvenirs for family in Cancun!
O’Hare @ 4:30...decided to ‘limo’ back in private car (I deserve it) debrief family (elated to see me!) at Medici in Hd Pk, gave out gifts, etc...... Have discovered these insect bites in places I didn't know I was bitten. Have over 140 e-mails to answer (or delete).
Have learned, on this trip, many individuals like me and are willing to show me favor. I credit that has being a gift from God--the ability to obtain grace from total strangers. Great to be back in U.S., with all its problems, would still rather be here than anywhere else on globe!!
(I’m still ill from that ‘hurricane food)

Please return e-mail's with any questions.


David

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