The Incredible Island of Antigua Continued!

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“Antigua--a different beach for every day of the year!”

We just finished up with all of the Derby activities here in Louisville, Kentucky, and what an exciting week it was! With all of the air shows, fireworks celebrations, galas, parades, brunches, lunches, dinners and tastings, I am thrilled to sit still for a few moments and provide you with more awesome information on Antigua!

Speaking of special events, April and May are very exciting times in Antigua as well! The Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta was held April 19-24th! Mark your calendar, because the 2008 Regatta will be held April 18th-23rd. What an event!

The Regatta has maintained a steady growth since its 1988 birth with 7 boats. It now hosts between 50 and 60 yachts every year and enjoys a wonderful variety of competitors including traditional crafts from the islands, classic ketches, schooners, and many more! For more information about the Regatta or about joining the Antigua Yacht Club, please visit www.antiguayachtclub.com.

The sailing excitement doesn't stop with the Regatta in Antigua! The 40th Stanford Antigua Sailing Week just wrapped up! Sailing week commenced with Race 1 on April 29th and ended on May 4th! To check all of the entries and the results, go to www.sailingweek.com.

There are several other fabulous events that are a "must see" in Antigua, depending upon the time of year you visit. For the tennis lovers out there, Antigua hosts Tennis week around the second week in May each year, with a pro-am tournament and exhibition games. www.thetennischannel.com

Carnival takes place later in the summer. This is a fabulous 10-day island wide celebration filled with music, costumes, and floats! Highly recommended by "yours truly"! www.antiguacarnival.com

In the past, I have visited in October during the Antiguan Jazz Festival, a celebration of Afro and Caribbean styles and fusion. What fun!

In my last entry, we visited awesome sites on the south end of the island. We have also discussed many of the exciting special events held on the island. Now, let's move from the south end of the island toward the east, to Indian Town, another of Antigua's fabulous national parks! I

t is here at Indian Town that you will discover a sight that will leave even the most seasoned traveler awestruck. Devils Bridge is definitely an Antigua "must see". In fact, I have been to Antigua many times, and have never left the island without a Devils Bridge visit. It is an amazing testament to the power of nature!

Devil's Bridge is surrounded by both the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea. In fact, it can easily be seen where both bodies of water meet! The rough Atlantic Ocean battering against the shoreline has created this awesome bridge-like structure. The deep swells and raging waters are continuously crashing into the Bridge posing quite a challenge for those who dare to actually walk across it! Not recommended, by the way!

Moving a bit to the northwest, we now encounter the capital of St. John's. St. John's is a large, neatly laid-out town that I find unbelievably charming! It has cobblestone sidewalks, weather-beaten wooden houses with corrugated iron roofs and louvered Caribbean verandas!

Much of Antigua's shopping can be found here on St. Mary's Street or High Street. You will find duty-free items including English woolens and linens, local pottery, straw work, rum, hand-printed fabrics and more.

My favorite is to visit St John's on a Saturday morning and make a stop at the fruit and vegetable market at the south end of Market Street. Oh my! You just have to try a big juicy Antiguan black pineapple! There is not another fruit quite like it! It makes my mouth water just thinking about it!

Okay, now it's time to get down to some serious business. Let's talk beaches!

There is a very nice beach on the South end of the island, near English Harbor, called Pigeon Point. The only reason I tend to shy away from this beach is that it is often very crowded, especially when a cruise ship is in port. However, its calm water makes it ideal for snorkelers and swimmers of most ages and abilities.

Dickenson Bay, on the northwest side of the island, directly north of St. John's is my favorite! It has a very wide mile-long strip of powder-soft sand and blissfully calm turquoise waters. You can rent watersports equipment at a nearby hotel, and there are plenty of refreshments available at the casual bars and restaurants nearby.

One of the best snorkeling spots, in my humble opinion, is just north of Dickinson Bay and is called Paradise Reef. The locals have taken a group of us to snorkel there several times, and the coral gardens are incredible!

If you are looking for a quiet and secluded getaway, then head southwest to Johnson's Point. It is located just below Jolly Harbor, and though very romantic, please note that it has no facilities.

Near Johnson's Point, on the southwest coast, you will find Turner's Beach. This is one of the best beaches for sunbathing. You can lie in the tropical sun and be cooled at the same time by the constant trade winds. If the day is clear, you can also see the volcanic island of Montserrat!

Heading east, you will encounter Carlisle Bay. Against a backdrop of coconut groves, the calm Caribbean meets the more turbulent Atlantic. Wow! I have never seen water such a beautiful hue of blue! You have to see it to believe it! Gorgeous!

Driftwood Beach is directly north of Johnson's Point, in the southwest. It is a very nice beach that sits close to villas and a marina, so it can, at times, get a bit crowded.

In the same vicinity is Darkwood Beach. The snorkeling here is great, and once again, you have the tradewinds to keep you cool.

If you continue north toward St John's and cut west at the turnoff for Five Islands, you will reach the four Hawksbill Beaches on the Five Islands Peninsula. The beaches are beautiful here- great clear blue water for snorkeling!

On one of these beaches, you can sunbathe and swim in the buff. However, being the innocent and naïve daughter that I am--Mom and Dad, I have no idea which beach that is! For my readers, just email me for the name of that particular beach!

Another of Antigua's beautiful beaches is Half Moon Bay, which stretches for nearly 1 mile on the southeastern coast. The Atlantic surf is usually a little rough, but that doesn't stop a never-ending stream of windsurfers! The beach is now a public park and ideal for a family outing.

As you can see, Antigua's claim to have a different beach for every day of the year carries some credibility! No matter your interest, there is definitely a beach for you!

Now that we have taken a tour of the island, I would like to make some suggestions on how you can take a similar tour when you get there!

It all depends on where you stay and what you want to do. If you stay at one of the out of the way hotels, then you will probably want to rent a car. If you want to hang around the hotel or all-inclusive resort, then there is no need.

Though the public transportation is sparse, taxis are available to get you wherever you need to go at reasonable prices. Travel buses handled by private companies also offer transportation, along with tour guides, between tourist locations. For those who are unsure of where to go, or would choose to have someone else do the itinerary planning, tour buses are an option for low-hassle travel.

If you are like me and would like more freedom in your travels or would like to explore more of the island on your own, then renting a car is an excellent option for you.

There are many rental agencies on the island that can help you obtain your Antiguan driver's permit, which is only $20 for 3 months. Car rentals cost about $40-$50 a day and require a valid driver's license, in addition to the Antigua permit.

Just a few words of caution when you choose to rent a car. Get detailed directions before you leave for your destination. There are no accurate or comprehensive maps of Antigua, and road signs are all but non-existent. Also, the roads are in a variable state of quality, with numerous pot-holes and areas where there is no pavement. Beware of the wandering livestock and the pedestrians who regard the roads as sidewalks. And, remember to always drive on the left side of the road. Other than that, it's a breeze! Ha! Ha!

Antigua's hotels are generally small, and many are closed during the summer. Air conditioning is uncommon except in first-class hotels. An 8.5% government tax and a service charge of between 10% and 15%, depending on your hotel, are added to your hotel bill, which makes quite a difference in your final tab.

Antigua has lots of expensive hotels and resorts, but there are ways you can bring down the prices. Consider buying a package that includes numerous luxury condo and 3, 4, and 5 star hotel options in the islands.

Your choice of where to stay is crucial. Those who prefer the trade winds, the breaking waves, and the dramatic scenery should stay on the northwest side, north of the capital of St. John's. If you want to spend most of your vacation at one resort, venturing out only occasionally, try the remote southern coast. History buffs interested in atmosphere, should try closer to the English Harbor. If a good beach is critical, then your options are endless, and I highly recommend Dickenson Bay on the Northwest side of the island.

I always enjoy watching the food network to get new ideas for meals at home and meals for entertaining. One thing I have noticed while viewing the shows that profile master chefs is that many of the restaurants profiled are in Antigua. Located near, or inside hotels makes getting to awesome dining spots in Antigua easy!

While Antigua offers many varieties of food, it boasts a particular flair for fusion cuisine, mixing tropical ingredients with international dishes and methods of cooking. Many of these restaurants treat dining as a whole experience and include live music and entertainment to go with the food.

I always make a point to sample more traditional island fare. If you have taste buds of steel, as I do, you must try some of the traditionally prepared foods. Spicy and wonderful! Antiguan cuisine is known for its pepperpot soup, fungi, ducana, salt codfish, roast suckling pig, and many varieties of blackened seafood. I adore the blackened seafood!

The prices can range anywhere from $7 to $70. However, regardless of your price range, the fresh catches from the sea (including red snapper, mahi mahi, shark, conch, and shrimp)and an array of local produce guarantee interesting, unique and delicious meals!

I have my favorite dining experiences, which I am happy to share here! However, for a full listing of options throughout Antigua, go to www.everytingantigua.com.

In St. John's, my favorite casual spot is Big Banana-Pizzas in Paradise. This is a marvelous place to get pizza, chicken sandwiches and salads. In addition to the good food, the ambience of the restaurant adds to the dining experience, as the restaurant is housed in an eighteenth century warehouse originally used to store rum. It retains wood flooring and stone archways to give diners a feel for the old building. On Thursday evenings, a reggae band entertains.

My favorite seafood restaurant in St. John's is a dive called Papa Zouk. The word "zouk" stands for French Creole music with strong African influence, and that is certainly what you get here! If you like seafood, zouk, and rum, you've come to the right place!

Papa Zouk is known for it's extensive collection of rums. Its signature tropical drink is called Ti-punch and is well worth a try. The pan-fried red snapper is awesome! The house special is the Carnival Platter, a medley of seafood such as mussels, scallops, and shrimp!

Alberto's is one of the most stylish and cosmopolitan restaurants on Antigua. You'll find it close to the edge of the sea near the St. James Club, in an open-sided pavilion lavishly draped with bougainvillea. The owner's frequent travels have inspired the menu's satisfying medley of Italian, French and Continental dishes.

My pick here is the ravioli stuffed with asparagus and shrimp! Other excellent choices include zesty pasta with fresh local clams; savory stuffed crabs; and fresh wahoo steak with sautéed onion, garlic and rosemary sauce!

Coconut Grove is north of St. John's in a coconut grove right on the beach. It has simple tables on a flagstone floor beneath a thatch roof. This is one of the Island's best! Soup is prepared fresh daily from local ingredients like ginger, carrot, and pumpkin. Lobster and shrimp dishes figure prominentlyl, along with a catch of the day and a daily vegetarian special. (much to the delight of my vegetarian friend, Debbie!) During happy hour at the bar (4-7), all drinks are half price.

George is in the home of owner Philip George-John. In his restored Georgian family manse, the host will feed you well and show you a good time. Many of the daily specials are based on longstanding Antiguan recipes.

The best time to go to George for an authentic experience is on Saturday, when island specialties are served, including goat water, souse, conch water, and pepperpot stew. For dessert, trythe creamy rice pudding!

You will quickly discover that Antiguans take their ribs seriously, and George-John prepares the best I've ever tasted! The ribs are slow roasted with a caramelized passion-fruit and pineapple glaze. Yes, they are as good as they sound! Lastly,

The Sticky Widget can be found next to a cricket field and this restaurant allows you to watch a match while you eat! It's one of the islands most popular sports-oriented gathering spots!

The food is not that of your typical sports bar, as exemplified by the west Indian pork rib plate or the grilled lamb souvlakia. The soups and salads are always fresh and homemade, including Antiguan lobster bisque or an East Indian curried chicken salad mixed with toasted coconut and fresh fruit.

In my next entry of "The Island Lover's Guide to the Caribbean", I will take you to the islands of Barbuda and Montserrat. They both make wonderful day trips from Antigua!

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