MONDAY Promising to return very soon, I reluctantly left Buenos Aires. Twenty five hours and three buses later, Tom and I arrived in Bariloche, in the heart of the Argentine Lake District. The town, nestled in the foothills of the Andes, hosts spectacular scenary (one of the best views on the planet, according to the National Geographic). However, as I moved around the bus station, I could tell I wasn´t going to fit in. Bariloche´s residents and vistors epitomise the term "outdoorsy". Trekking poles and fleeces are a popular accessory, and nothing less than a hiking boot passes for footwear. Tom is, of course, in heaven, and within minutes was seeking out the most challenging hikes and beaming about "the great outdoors". Our first night in the tent comfirmed my fears. Uncomfortable and freezing cold, I
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