This was my second ever visit to Ko Samui, after visiting the island as a backpacker in May of 1997, when the intensity of the sun almost caused me to sizzle alive, and the throngs of euphoric tourists, all happy to share the island's magical charm, kept me in high spirits throughout my stay. This time around though, it was an almost entirely different affair, and I stayed at something more closely resembling a proper hotel, with a gorgeous stretch of private beach just around the rear of the property. It is worth pointing out that, back then, the main street was not properly surfaced, and was lined with stalls selling bootleg cassettes, amongst other items, and a few restaurants and bars of note, hinting at a tourist infrastructure which was at a developmental stage. The
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