Almost without exception the initial exposure elicits a profound feeling of wonderment and awe, mixed with a certain amount of repulsion and bewilderment. That first encounter with any of the possible ports of entry is an assault on the senses: the myriad colours of the disparate mass of milling humanity; the cacophony of sound; the jostling, jousting multitude of vehicles; roaming beasts; heady aromas of incense, cut flowers, spices and sandalwood battling the astringent stench of urine and stagnant effluent; and, unless arriving in a Delhi winter, all bathed in a stifling, oppressive heat. Juxtaposed, like nowhere else on earth, are tarmac and dirt, wealth and poverty, the mouth-watering and the repugnant, the hi-tech and the medieval, suited businessmen and loin clothed or naked sadhus, ladies in stunning sari/choli combinations and filthy rag-wrapped old crones, munificent
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