The flight south from Buenos Aires took in a brownish landscape and occasional sea before, after nearly 3 hours, we passed over a green river wiggling off to the horizon and then we were in El Calafate, with more than half the country having been bypassed. There's only one reason for people to be in El Calafate and that's to visit the Perito Moreno glacier, so the town that has grown up around this industry is packed with souvenir shops, outdoor gear stores, Buenos Aires-priced cafes, and - most incongruously - a casino. However, with a crisp and sunny climate (at
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