Off to the beach today. First stop Astoria, on the mouth of the Columbia river. It's one of those small American towns stuck in a time warp - ca 1950s. Lots of films were shot here - Kindergarten Cop and Free Willy were the ones we remember. There is a long waterfront, with jetties sticking out into the sea, canneries and maritime suppliers smelling of salt water and fish and small streets with old fashioned shops stuck in a bygone era, including the worlds's smallest JC Penney. We wander around and agree on an early clam chowder lunch, which is made freshly for us and takes us back to long forgotten family holidays in Massachusetts. We sit over lunch and look around for the guy on the witness protection program, as this must be the sort ... read more

Much as we would like to stay in Seattle, this is a road trip and it is time to move on. Our next stop is Yakima,a town we had picked not for its own merits but because it is in the heart of Washington wine country. Our first doubts about Yakima arose as we chatted about our plans with the immigration official. 'Yakima??? What on earth do you want to go there for?' he asked, a question that was asked again the next day by our host. Up early to try to get to Mount Rainier National Park before all the car parks filled up - a Sunday in August being pretty much the busiest time we could have picked. Rainer is a 14,500 high volcano, covered in glaciers which radiate out from all sides. It's ... read more

The night passed without incident....a pre-ordered breakfast of Indian stuff arrived 20 minutes late, we part consumed, then set off. Stopped to visit a couple of tombs on the outskirts of town then on to Gulbarga. In 1991 a man called Michael Kent wrote a detailed description of the Deccan sights, an interesting book though one which will detain no-one unless they David's interest in these matters. He mentioned that in Gulbarga, a foul and unpleaceable odour emanated from the fetid green moat. The moat has long since dried up but we can report that same odour now seems to engulf you wherever you go in the town.......more 14th century battlements, mosques etc, but we had to flee because of the stink. The day however gets better because unbeknownst to us or our driver, Narendra Modi, ... read more

Mysore overall is a very pleasant city – wide avenues, fine municipal buildings, though of course very much an Indian city. On our last full day here we went early to the Ranganathittu bird reserve near to Sriringapatna on the Cauvery river. We paid for a trip in a boat with other people, declining a private boat for INR2000. Suddenly the price came down to INR1000 (£10) at which price we said yes. Surprisingly we were not offered a receipt, I wonder if the two rangers declared our payment to their boss? The reserve comprises a number of small islands in the river. It is a beautiful serene place, with very few people if you arrive early. But peaceful it is not – instead the air is full of the sounds of thousands of birds cooing, ... read more

Sunday morning. David is still recovering from Everton’s loss to Arsenal in the FA Cup. Continuing to meet our craving to eat something different, we reverse yesterday’s move from Indian to European food, and swap out the toast and omelette breakfast of the last ten days for an Indian breakfast of wada, sambur, yoghurt and lassi. Mr Ali, reliable as ever, collects us at 9am and we head to the Chamundi Hills which overlook Mysore. At the top is an old temple, still in use and absolutely heaving with people as today is Sunday and hence a day off. Mr Ali informs us that people start arriving at 5am. We decide not to join the queue, but instead wander back to the car through the numerous stalls selling trays of fruit and flowers for temple offerings ... read more