That title is also from Coleridge's Rime of the Ancient Mariner, when the shipwrecked sailors are dying of thirst in a lifeboat. Water, water everywhere and not a drop to drink. In my case it was all drinkable but I didn't want it. I came to the tiny town of Franz Joseph to see its eponymous glacier, named after the Austrian Emperor who reigned from 1848 to 1916. But, like most places here with a European name, there is an earlier name and a story behind it. Maoris call it Ka Roimata o Hine Hukatere, or Tears of the Avalanche Girl. The legend is that a girl lost her lover who fell from a local peak and her flood of tears froze to form the glacier. I think she was still crying when I was here
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