Another day in Paradise

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Indians have always had transistor radios, or the possibility of, sometimes see guys listening to cricket. But now mobile phones offer FM radio, it's suddenly cool to play their mobile;on buses, in my restaurant, in my face. Several at once, all different stations, no headphones, and no one minds but me.

The child screaming over the radio noise in the restaurant is not discouraged in any way, just ignored really, in a sweet way, and while my own upbringing could have used some of that leeway, I'd rather the kid got a good hard slap, "Give you something to cry about" was the exact quote if I remember correctly.

The really good waiter where I have been eating, gives me special treatment, and when he plucks the spoon from the container, all spoons business end up, he grabs it naturally with thumb and finger, and then using thumb and finger rubs it nicely clean. Grabs a dirty counter rag and gives my plate a final scrub too, in case it's not up to standard. I've been tipping him well, I think he's a little in love with me.

When the auto rickshaw driver lets me down and doesn't show up at 6am. yesterday, my morning is shot for birding, and when I see him later and give a big tip for short ride, an agreement is reached for today. Guess what? Fortunately a taxi I had negotiated with but decided against, showed up, so got to jungle early,and so I could relax more, arranged for him to pick me up at 4pm. so I didn't need to clock watch and could bird all day. Guess what? At 5 I have to start walking. A two hour walk later, 12 in all today, I see him. Something had come up it seems.

The worst day of birding in my life, not just no birds in what should have been paradise, but the leech problem got out of hand, 25 bites on each ankle, and each 10 minutes I would check. Was cool seeing 6 or 7 lined up and sucking, told myself to stay calm, but as soon as removal time comes it's "Kill, Bastards, Vengance is mine", I get tense and really worn out. Tell myself that next time I'll relax, little beasts have their own right to exist, just stay calm and remove them. But it doesn't work. I grow more tense and disgusted with all the blood, plus proper technique is fire or salt I think, and I have neither. So end up squeezing as I pull and tug and scrape, and aaarrgghhh! I'm all freaked out again.

So if there is one thing I have learned in this life, it's that when things get really tough, really crazy, only one thing to do: run away. Got a ticket for 6am., back to big city and after 12 hour bus ride, maybe another night one, off to another paradise.

I'll need a holiday after this.

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Comments

[Kirsty]

please tell us that photo is not of your feet? Difficult to stay calm when faced with so many leeches Sam!!

[payal]

Leeches
I thought leeches cleaned your blood, maybe they're angels in disguise, heard they are using them in hospitals along with maggots. Imagine ooooooooooh! Hope there will be some of you left when you get back. xxxxxxx

[Maria Isabel]

leeches
Hi, Great trip! Where did you get the leeches? Any way to prevent it? I thought this info could be useful for you. Got it from http://www.wildmadagascar.org/overview/leeches.html Removing a leech If you are bitten by a leech and are compelled to remove it before it has had its full (leeches drop off on their own when they are done feeding), you can do so by following these steps: Identify the anterior (oral) sucker which will be found at the small end of the leech. Put your finger on your skin adjacent to the oral sucker Gently but firmly slide your finger toward the wound where the leech is feeding. Using your fingernail, push the sucker sideways away from your skin. Once you have dislodged the oral sucker, quickly detach the posterior (rear) sucker (the fat end of the leech). Try flicking the leech or proding with your fingernail. As you work to remove the leech, it will attempt to reattach itself. Keep the wound clean -- minor cuts in tropical climates can quickly become infected. The leech itself is not poisonous. The wound will itch as it heals.