Sun-rise swimming, sweat and sand...

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We caught a locals bus to Halong, expecting (rather naively) to step off the bus into the postcards and paintings that are famous for capturing Halong Bay's beauty...alas Halong City is one big Blackpool resort! Luckily our boat trip and island stay plucked us from this urban jungle and tourist bedlum and slowly the sunken karst peak scenery begins to emerge (similiar to the Krabi coastline in Thailand).

We swam and kayaked into caves, around islands and sea-villages...I showed off my kayaking skills plus beat the tide back to the boat. Jumping off the top deck (about 15m high) during the late afternoon red sun and then watching the sun set across the bay was deep-breathingly refreshing. Although one early morning (pitch black) swim we enjoyed lazily until sizeable jellyfish were spotted! Picking out the silhouettes of the many limestone islands protruding from the emerald sea is awe-inspiring. There are 3,000 of these islands in an area of 1,500 km2 in Gulf of Tonkin, most hollowed with caves both intricately dissected and those with cavernous hollows to cathedral domes. The caves' stalatites and karst features are fancifully named...plus many linked to the human anatomy (you can guess...!).

We shared a cabin on the boat, which was cosy to say the least! The food was simple but delicious, much of the seafood caught by the crew or bought at the water villages. Fisherman live 24/7 on boats joined together with little planked platforms, some with holes cut and netted, where their catch of the day swimming or crawling, waiting to be eaten. The prawns/langostines were as big as cats!

The Cat Ba Archipelago where we also stayed is also an UNESCO heritage site and national park. Full of monkeys and birdlife, although the former were conspiciously absent! The coves were tranquil and peaceful. Lots of swimming, lounging and reading. We are swopping our reads with other back-packers as we go. The seafood is just fantastic,many fish I had never seen, including the Helmet Crab (google it!), an endangered species and living fossil...looks like a crab got overfriendly with a sting-ray...and this was the outcome!

After these days in the sun and surf, we caught the overnight (16hr!) sleeper train to Danang. We opted for the cheap beds, and of course, you get what you pay for. The cabins consisted of 6 bunk beds...the top ones with the least breathing space, nose to ceiling, and a long drop shared between 10 of these cabins, is what we endured! Plus mice running over our feet! Shared some beers and played cards with some Kiwi's which helped us to sleep through the night. However at sun-up, the view from the train window was stunning. The railway rides literally over the jagged steep coastline, reminded me of the stretch between Dawlish and Teingmouth. We saw elaborate stone graves where even the poorest save for years to give their loved ones peace and comfort for eternity. They dress all in white and burn incense when remembering the dead.

Motorbike to Hoi An from Danag where we are now. We have fallen in love with this sea-side town. It is THE place to have clothes made/personal tailoring. Kat has had made things for her new job teaching in Han Noi, and I, some trousers. Most girls are swanning around in ball gowns they are having made. The beach is a cycle ride away-so have been hiring a bike for 1$ per day and riding the 4clicks to the beach...white sand that stretches as far as one can see...not quite blue water after the typhoon...and plenty of hawkers selling randon ware!

Tomorrow (Sunday) we start out 'Motorcycle Diaries' adventures...we have hired guide and motorbikes to take us over the mountains, though jungles and covering Ho Chi Minh's guerilla route to Nha Trnag...where we shall be 5 days later...Happy Days.

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