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Published: March 16th 2008
23rd February 2008 - 6th March 2008
Hoi An - Hue - Hanoi - Ha Long Bay
First day in
Hoi An and it was still raining so we decided to splash out $5 on a large multi coloured umbrella! We have been using umbrellas since almost the start of our travels mainly as a sunshade but occasionally and more conventionally to stop us getting wet. We have got through quite a few so far as we have been purchasing small flimsy ones which blow inside out and break easily but have fitted snugly into our backpacks. We have had a lot of funny looks from fellow travellers and tourists and several witty comments such as 'are you expecting rain?' We don't mind if we cause amusement (a benefit of travelling is being not concerned with your appearance) as long as we are not sweating so much or wet! Besides, there must be something in it as all the locals do the same.
So with Claire's latest umbrella binned we purchased this large, more sturdy and very cheery brolly! We also discovered that during these dreary rain soaked days it brightened up many a photo. It no longer
fits in our backpack though and had to go through airport check in as a separate item when we later flew out of Vietnam - which I think they found quite funny too!
Hoi An is a very attractive and compact town comprising mainly of tailors, art galleries and shops. There are a few places of historical interest in the town but we largely avoided these and spent most of our time at the tailors. We visited the 'flambuoyant' Mr Xe, as recommended by the Rough Guide and now us, to get myself measured up for a new suit. He seemed to take a shine to me as he patted my bottom a few times and I must admit I was a little nervous as all I had on were my boxer shorts! I've asked around and apparently this is normal and there was definitely no cupping!
I chose the colour, material, style (with help from the Next catalogue), lining, shirt and was told it would be ready by the next day. We returned the following day and the suit was amazing (although some amendments were needed) so Claire put in her order of one suit including skirt
and trousers and then we both decided it would be 'criminal' not to get new coats made too! Most of our three days revolved around the tailors but we were more than satisfied with the outcome and had a lot of fun in the process as the staff were great. Oh, and the whole lot came to about 120 pounds - we're coming back here some day!
Fortunately we were due to see my sister George in a few days as she is holidaying in Vietnam with her husband Wayne and has kindly agreed to take our clothes home. Until that time we were travelling with our normal luggage, four suit bags with hangers and one large umbrella of course!
Next stop, via five hours on the umpa lumpa bus, was
Hue. It was still raining and wasn't as much fun as Hoi An - it was that really fine rain as well that soaks you right through! We didn't do much in Hue therefore, but we did make it to the Citadel which was an interesting couple of hours, especially while trying to avoid stepping in the mud or falling over on the treacherously slippy paths.
From Hue to
Hanoi was another twelve hour journey, one we were not prepared to do in the umpa lumpa bus so as before we upgraded to a sleeper. This one didn't seem quite as comfortable as the last and we didn't sleep as well this time, possibly because of the bus driver - he was an idiot! He almost had a heart attack when Claire brought the tiniest bit of dirt onto the bus and then while I was getting into my book (usually I can't read in cars or buses) he turned the lights off including the overhead light at 7pm! I think he wanted us to sleep. However, about an hour later we stopped for dinner where it was virtually impossible to get served and when you did the waitress didn't hang around long enough for the whole order. After five requests I went and got my own beer. Back on the bus and still no lights but we were subjected to karaoke on the tv's for several hours. Ear plugs, ipod and eye masks were useful that evening. Claire was convinced he was driving over bumps on purpose too!
Anyway, we arrived at the outskirts
of Hanoi in the dark about 6am. We were taxi'd to the 'old quarter' as buses not allowed here. We were taken to the Ocean Stars Hotel which for $12 including breakfast was a good deal. We rested for a while then put our jumpers and new coats on as it was very cold and went in search of lunch. We dined at a local restaurant with tiny chairs and tables, ones like you had at primary school, and had a mug of beer for 25p with our vegetable noodles - we decided in the end against the cow tails and pig stomach!
It was after lunch we started to get 'pavement rage'. All over Asia it has been common practice, where pavements have existed that is, to have shops, cafes, street vendors, mopeds and cars utilising this space. We have therefore become accustomed to walking in the relative safety of the road, especially as often the pavements are unsteady and lined with holes. However, the old quarter in Hanoi takes the biscuit! The streets are really narrow and while it is usually possible to walk some sections of pavements here there was little to no chance! We had
Claire outside the Citadel - Hue
See, the umbrella does make a difference!to walk on the narrow road amongst the swarm of mopeds and other vehicles and we quickly established that the mopeds are experts at driving around you, often while on their mobile phone, so the best policy is to keep walking regardless! It still made us mad!
In the evening we had tickets for the Water Puppet Show. It began with some traditional Vietnamese music and singing and then the puppetry began. There were several short stories including dragons, fishermen, children and fairies which we thought very entertaining and comical - an enjoyable hour for $3!
The next morning we were up early as we had booked an overnight tour of
Ha Long Bay. Ha Long Bay is about three hours from Hanoi and consists of around two thousand bizarrely shaped limestone outcrops jutting impressively out of the sea. Our 'Junk Boat' (that's what they are called, it wasn't luxurious but certainly not the worst!) cruised amongst them for a few hours and then we moored for the evening and slept in our cabin on the boat. We were extremely lucky with the weather as the sun came out for the two days we were there - the
first time for over a week. The second day was pretty much a repeat of the first but it was very enjoyable and relaxing.
We didn't do much on our first day back in Hanoi, we were really just killing time until George and Wayne's arrival. We did stumble on a botannical garden though (more what we would call a park) and spent a couple of relaxing hours there. We did come across some soldiers aiming their rifles at targets in the park though which was a little alarming. They told us we could pass, I don't think they were actually firing anything, all the same we gave them a wide berth.
The next day was an exciting day as we got to see George and Wayne. After nearly six months it was good to see familiar faces. We walked to their five star hotel, had the door opened for us, sat in the spacious lobby, used the fancy toilets and rang their room from a very elegant and old fashioned telephone! We had a couple of $4 beers not including service charge (usual price $1 and a bigger bottle!) together at the hotel by the swimming pool
catching up on news and we left them the bill and a chance to get some sleep and arranged to meet later. Oh and we took our huge bar of Dairy Milk and Toblerone back with us to our hotel that we asked George to bring - chocolate is just not the same here!
We met later in a bar and had a couple of $1 beers (we were paying this time) and went on to find somewhere to eat. By about 10pm the restaurant staff wanted to go home as we were the only ones left and they were putting their coats on. We had not been out this late before in Hanoi and it was a surprise to see nearly everywhere closed and the pavements completely deserted!
The following morning we met up again for what was to be a very full day sightseeing. First was a whistle stop tour of the Ho Chi Minh Museum as we arrived only 45 minutes before its lunchtime closure at 11.45am. We didn't understand most of it but there were some interesting sculptures and artwork which were a lot of fun as we took some silly photos of them.
Warning! Slippery when wet!
Would have looked so much better with the other umbrella! Afterwards we visited the 'One Pillar Pagoda' and Ho Chi Minh mausuleum (where the main man now rests) but that was closed too so we had to settle for a picture from the outside. Then came the 'star attraction', The Temple of Literature, according to George's guidebook - it actually was! We took lots more funny photo's here! On the way back we stopped for a large cathedral and then we had lunch right next to the lake at about 4pm. We were starving, our inclusive hotel breakfast was not quite the same as their's.
We went for a rest back at our hotel while George and Wayne went to the Puppet Theatre and we met afterwards for our final night together in a more upmarket restaurant than we were used to and had one of our best meals in Vietnam (budget food not so great here). Another great night but it was sad saying goodbye. We are going to miss Wayne's comical camera poses and George's face when crossing the road! Tomorrow they go to Ha Long Bay and we fly to Laos - we decided against a 24 hour bus journey and in favour of more style
and comfort. Goodbye Vietnam!
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George & Wayne
non-member comment
Confucious say .... "man who stands on one leg will fall over!"
Nice to see we made it onto your blog although I'm sure you could have picked a far nicer photo of me and Wayne together rather than the one of him trying to strangle me! The puppet one's turned out good too - we may have to "borrow" some of your pics as you have mastered using your camera slightly more than Wayne! Will send you our team kung-fu photo when we get back, although its not as good as your Karate Kid pose!