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Published: July 20th 2009
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Hello again and welcome to part two of my Saigon Tourist tour.
After the beauty and peace of Tay Ninh temple it was time to head to Cu Chi Tunnels. The journey took about 1 hour and 15 minutes, but the roads were a lot worse. Bouncing along the road, I was glad once we arrived at our destination.
Construction of the tunnels begain in the 1940's as a response by the peasants to the superior military strength of the French. They reached legendary status during the American War (I like how it is known as the American War by the Vietnamese) though, allowing the Viet Cong to retain control of the area despite constant attack. Cu Chi had become a free fire zone, little or no authorisation was required to bombard the area. US Bombers returning from missions would drop all unused bombs and napalm on the area. Artillery guns would fire on the zone through the night. An example of how little reason was required goes something like this:
There were several US Artillery bases surrounding Cu Chi. Many of the troops had local girlfriends that would visit them on the base. The girls were very
interested in the guns and would ask to see them, so the troops happily showed them. Seeing the guns, the girls would ask if they could fire the guns. Of course, the troops were only to ready to let them. So, Cu Chi came under fire simply to impress a girl.
With the constant attacks, the tunnels again came into use again. The region is made up of very hard clay, but using techniques passed down through generations the locals were able to build a very complex system using just a small spade and bucket. Over 20km long and 5km wide, they form a zig zagging network totalling thousands of kilometres. There are three levels to the network going down to about 10m below ground. The first level was used for housing, emergency treatment, military planning etc while the others were used for connecting the tunnels. There were many hidden entrances to the tunnel network allowing the VC to quickly enter or leave. It is said the US military could not see the VC although they knew there were thousands there, and this is where the tunnel network really came into its own. They were able to withstand the
attacks, and only caved in if a bomb was dropped directly onto one of the tunnels.
Several attempts were made to infiltrate the system, but they were rigged with basic bamboo traps that made it very dangerous to enter unless you knew where they were. It is impossible to map the network and it is very easy to get lost without a guide.
Now the tunnels stand as one of the wonders of the 20th Century, attracting tour groups every day of the week. The tour begins with a video documentary from 1967 about the Cu Chi Guerillas. This is essentially anti-American propaganda, but does show how the tunnels were used so effectively. From here you move through the wooded area above the tunnels, viewing many of the lower level bunkers. The bunkers have been altered to have a higher ceiling now whereas originally they we flat. This makes viewing a lot simpler. You journey through the medical and housing bunkers, seeing how munitions were made and the rudimentary but effective traps that were deployed around and throughout the tunnels. At the half way stage you can stop for a drink or ice cream, plus there is the
opportunity to by rounds and fire a selection of rifles on the shooting range. Although very tempted to open up the AK-47, we only had 5 minutes here so did not really have the time.
Next the highlight of the tour, entering the lower level tunnels. You are allowed a false sense of security when you first enter, the tunnel has been enlarged for the western tourist. "This is easy", thinks I, "I don't know what all the others were complaining about". I should really know by now not to think such things. We descended into the lower level, where the cave is no wider than my shoulder width and no taller than an office table. It is dark, very hot and very tight. We proceed crouched down for 40 metres (40 very long and tiring metres I might add). The guide leads the way with the flash light, but we are soon navigating by sound alone, "Just follow my voice". About halfway my legs decided they had had enough, so I opted for crawling the rest. Yes, it is clear how the VC had the advantage in this area as an armed US Soldier would easily have become
stuck and an easy target in these conditions.
We finally ascended back into daylight, very sweaty and very tired. I am glad I did it for the experience but it is not something I would hurry to do again.
So then it was back to the bus and back to Ho Chi Minh City. The journey back takes about 1 hour 30 minutes, plenty of time for me to sleep again.
In all I thought it was a very good tour. The guide had excellent English and knew the history very well. I was not impressed by the size of the bus though, and having seen the Sinh Cafe buses I would maybe go with that option in the future (plus you get a free t-shirt with them). If you are in Ho Chi Minh City, Cu Chi tunnels is a must visit. Maybe I will go back, just to try the AK-47.
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