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Published: November 2nd 2006
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I take it all back, every word. Everything I said about Vietnamese food in Hanoi was clearly a rush to judgment. Hoi An has me singing a different tune. This town invented the grilled fish in banana leaf - you know the one, you’ve all seen Bobby Flay gently wrapping a delicate filet of the latest trendy white fish, perfectly enveloped in a trimmed green leaf and carefully seasoning it before placing it on an obnoxiously large gas grill. Well forget all that. This is the real deal. A whole snapper still swimming when I walked up, is shoved full of lemongrass, garlic and shallots, wrapped in the biggest leaf on the tree and chargrilled over an open fire then split open and served with a side of lime juice heavenly seasoned with salt and pepper. I’ll take mine with some stir fried vegetables and an ice cold beer please. Oh, and the view doesn’t suck either. Like in all seaside towns, I believe there is no reason to eat anything but seafood when I am at or near the beach. In this case I am literally on the beach. I’ve found a spot that I just can’t leave. I’ve had
two straight lunches here, one dinner and now I’ve been invited for breakfast with family that runs it. The Man family has been here for over 30 years. They set up shop soon after the American war and were serving up local delicacies well before the tourists came. Dad does the fishing, mom does the cooking and the oldest son Hoang runs the place with the help of his younger brother and sister. So far everything is out of this world.
I could hang out here for a while - and not just at Man’s place on the beach. I had heard nothing but good things about Hoi An. In fact, I had originally planned on buzzing through central Vietnam on my way to Saigon, the Mekong Delta and Cambodia but while in Hanoi all I heard was how great Hoi An was and how I shouldn’t miss it. Well, I’m glad I came. Like Hanoi, Hoi An has a French accent but while it maintains it’s Asian identity, it also screams Caribbean. Just south of the former DMZ, it feels more like St Thomas than Southeast Asia. After all, it’s the tropics - palm trees, sea breezes, fruity
cocktails - it’s all right here in Vietnam.
I’ve been dodging motorbikes since the minute I stepped foot in this country and now it’s time to turn the tables. If you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em. Because of its location, Hoi An as well of many of the surrounding attractions were left mostly unaffected by the French and American wars that devastated much of Vietnam’s historical and cultural sites. There is so much nearby in fact that I have decided to rent one of these menacing mobiles and check it out for myself. After a bit of negotiating, I finally secure a trusty looking model for the entire day for about $6. Throw in $3 in gas and I am off on the open road. Just me and my hog and the open road. Ok, ok, it was more like a Honda scooter but it will always be a Harley in my head. I spent the morning exploring the sites - ancient ruins of My Son (mee-saan), the Marble Mountains and the famous GI hangout China Beach. But once again, it was the ride that was the real experience. Cruising through rice patties and small villages attracting curious stares
and shouts of “HELLO!” from local school children along the way. I spent the afternoon riding along the beach at Cai Mau near Man’s place. There are few large resorts here but since the Vietnamese are the farthest thing from sun worshippers and all the tourists are in Thailand, it’s miles and miles of open beach all to yourself. Back in town, the tourist trade has transformed most of the old homes into shops and restaurants but like Lijiang China, they have managed to retain much of their old world charm. A quiet river strolls through the middle of town and its banks boast a number of cafes and a busy outdoor market. It’s so peaceful here that I can’t help but stay a few extra days. I decide to skip the busy beach at Nha Trang and plant myself in Hoi An until my schedule makes it necessary to continue on to Saigon. In fact, Hoi An has been the most pleasant surprise on my trip so far. Like many Americans, I pictured the Vietnam I’d seen on film - the rice patties, dense jungles and limestone karsts that make such dramatic backdrops for war movies. I had no
idea that a Vietnam like this existed. Tropical, peaceful, charming Hoi An, I’m sad to say goodbye and hope to visit again some day.
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