Advertisement
Published: November 30th 2010
Thomas Fowler, in the Quiet American, emphatically states that “you come to Vietnam and understand a lot in a few minutes. The rest has got to be lived. They say whatever it was you were looking for, you will find here…”.
After a mere week in Vietnam, I’m not sure whether I understand more or less of this fascinating country… Frankly, with all due respect to Mr. Fowler’s character (in what has become an emblematic film for anyone interested in learning about the country), I didn’t know what I was looking for and, honestly, I prefer to keep it that way. Maintaining a low level of expectations and being flexible and spontaneous are essential, I’ve found for any successful traveling experience – and successful it was!
Perhaps it’s the effusive yet genuine smile from every stewardess on this Air Asia flight, currently flying over the Equator en route to Bali, or the generically-expected few days of gratefulness that follow Thanksgiving, but as I retrospectively drift back to the past week spent in Vietnam, I’m consumed by a real feeling of euphoria. How could I not I suppose? For as long as I care to remember, I’ve wanted to travel
to Vietnam… It would be far too easy to attribute this dream to some historical connection and overall feeling of “guilt” to see, discover and appreciate what this beautiful country has become - the transformation - given all the bloody atrocities it has endured from both countries from which I hold a passport and claim citizenship. So, surely there is more… and yet I can only attempt to write down these reasons
de facto in your typical overly-satiated,post-vacation bliss… BUT THERE IS MORE! Though it straddles the line between its raw untouched allure and the inevitable tourism boom and undeniable development, Vietnam is, and I hope will remain, a mystical place, which, as far as I’m concerned, possesses every bit of unique charm and attractions you would want in a foreign destination… and then some. It is truly a phenomenal place.
The point is, I’ve always dreamed of heading to Vietnam. And the stars aligned… A myriad of “reasons” triggered the somewhat impulsive decision to pack our bags and head to South East Asia. With the big “3-0” coming up, coupled by some time off and the lack of a proper Holiday break this year (with a return trip
to Haiti over the Christmas holidays), it seemed like the right time to take off… But where? Alas, the existential conundrum I love to have and luckily, have to love…An incredibly generous gift of a buddy pass from a family friend who used to work at Delta made the decision to head far away easier. South East Asia just made sense as we pulled up the Delta itinerary chart and realized all that we could and wanted to see in the region. My incredibly sweet, loving and caring girlfriend offered to pay for the tickets as part of my 30th birthday present, so the trip was set and the wheels were in motion…
And speaking of motion, I’ve decided to title this short blog entry: “Vietnamese Velo-city” not just as a cheeky play on word (referring to Ho Chi Minh City in particular, with its fierce motor-bike/scooter culture) but really as a testament to the fact that VIETNAM IS MOVING – moving away from the preconceived communist generalizations to a vibrant country which embraces and captures just enough capitalistic notions while retaining its unique cultural, social and political ethos. The recent political achievements, innovations and trade agreements have undoubtedly
positioned the country for growth. Experiencing part of this movement only added to this unforgettable trip in ways I will never be able to adequately describe it… What can I say, it “moved” me.
Okay, enough already with the imagery… Let’s talk about this mysterious, large country (128,000 square miles) – its people, its food, its customs…
Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon – a name which I prefer, selfishly because of its succinct spelling and pronunciation) is like no other place on Earth. It’s raw, vibrant, over-spilling with energy which seems to pour out of every corner, every food stall, and every street-side interaction. From the minute the sun rises, thousands of locals rush to the lively streets and avenues of District 1 (the central part of town) to start their day with a heaping bowl of Pho (delicious) and sip on the perfectly patiently-dripped coffee beans, mixed with a dab of condensed milk to create one of the most beautiful and tasty caffeinated libation. As an early riser myself, especially in light of the brutal jet lag, I was a very happy to see that in Vietnam, everything starts early… But make no illusion about it,
the traffic (and motorcycle madness) is just as relentless at 6 am as it is in the middle of the day. It’s absolutely insane! I think I could count on one hand how many traffic lights I actually counted while making my way through this bustling metropolis. I’m truly amazed by the fact that I did not witness a single accident while we were there… It matters not how unruly the system seems in comparison to our rather orderly traffic protocol in the Western World, the Vietnamese seem to have it down to a science. Walking around town was the most challenges we’ve encountered on the trip… We would “commit” (as we called it) by picking a straight line, closing our eyes and booking it to the other side (while perhaps also praying in the process). Of course, our transportation tour of Saigon was not complete until we rode in the traditional cyclo… I can’t believe that tiny guy managed to push both Daya and I, especially after all the Vietnamese delicacies we had been ingesting…
Oh, the food! I won’t lie – Daya and I were on a serious culinary expedition in Vietnam. We were determined to try
everything under the (hot) sun. And eat we did - passionately at that! The food is, quite simply, sublime. Admittedly, I may be a bit partial to its French influence, from the warm crusty baguettes to the sophisticated cooking techniques involving all sorts of fresh meats, fish and produce. The best example of such fusion delight is the traditional banh mi sandwhich which, as far as I’m concerned, contains everything that I love in a sandwich – a warm baguette filled with pure goodness, including pork (sausage and pate), fresh veggies, cilantro and other fresh herbs. I couldn’t (and still can’t) get enough of it. It would be far too tedious to list all the food that we tried in Vietnam – but let’s just say that we never went hungry! And to finish things right, Daya and I enrolled in a traditional Vietnamese cooking class which included a preliminary early tour of the local market followed by a lesson on traditional cooking etiquette, and of course technique. The culmination of this fine experience enabled us to savor our gastronomic creations – and might I humbly add that it was damn good!
From Saigon, it was a short flight
to the Central Highlands where we would spend the remainder of our time. Hoi An is an amazing little town – a UNESCO world heritage site, which possesses a unique blend of local and international influences. A quaint charming cobblestone town filled with craft stores and more tailors than Milan’s fashion district! It was only fitting (get it?!) that we would dabble into the local crafts and get suited up – which, in the end, meant getting a three piece suit, shirts and a leather jacket for a fraction of the price that it would cost us back in the States – all custom made! They’ve really got this down to a science there – most stores get you in there, size you up, show you all your options and before you know it, you’re getting a whole new wardrobe which you can pick up the following day… yeah, Vietnam is moving… And so where we! Despite the undeniable charm of the town, Daya and I decided to set off on our own little rural adventure. We got an early start, braved the traffic, which admittedly was much more manageable than Saigon, rented a couple of scooters to explore the
nearby temples, mountains and beaches – a great day all around, filled with just the right amount of adrenaline-filled thrills and cultural fulfillment.
And that’s pretty much how I would sum up my experience in Vietnam – the perfect blend of all that I find meaningful and fulfilling in a worthy trip – or as Don Draper, from Mad Men, would characterize as “simple but significant.” Did I find what I was looking for in Vietnam? I think so… but what I know for sure is that this trip tickled my taste buds on so many levels… This beautiful region continues to fascinate me and I cannot wait for the day when I return to once again appreciate its evolution. There is a quote from The Quiet American which resonates with me and seems somewhat fitting… “It’s a strange thing to discover and to believe… Innocence is a kind of insanity.” – Graham Greene.
Photo album of the trip:
here
Advertisement
Tot: 0.168s; Tpl: 0.012s; cc: 21; qc: 103; dbt: 0.0692s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.4mb
deleted_49612
deleted_49612
What amazing photos! :)