some cycling at last!

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Well after the horrible Ha long Bay trip is was nice to be somewhere more relaxed and not so touristy, where the people were not all about ripping foreigners off! Ninh Binh is supposed to be the "Halong Bay of the rice paddies" - so it has lots of the same rock formations as Halong Bay, and cycling is the perfect way to see them, as well as by row boat, as there is water everywhere.

On my first day I was really enthusiastic and rode about 50km in total in the country side, visiting Kenh Ga floating village and Van Long nature reserve. It was so nice to be riding a bike again, and while riding along Highway 1 was super stressful, once I was on some quieter rodes I really enjoyed the opportunity to see some less developed Vietnamese villages.

On my second day I visited some temples at Hoa Lu, and then reading in the Lonely Planet that there were"blissful back roads" connecting Hoa Lu with Tam Coc, the next place I was wanting to visit, I asked some Vietnamese for the directions. However this route became a bit of a nightmare, with the roads constantly curving around the limestone cliffs, so I had no idea if I was actually heading in the right direction. The roads had also turned to mud with all of the rain, and being so far off the usual tourist trail, I could find few Vietnamese people who spoke English to ask for more directions - I was really wishing I spoke Vietnamese! And then passing through a town I was stopped by a gang of kids waving knives - I was really freaked out - but luckily I think they were just mucking around playing a game amongst themselves, as they let me pass through without too much hassle.

But then further along the road a younger boy waving a stick asked me for money, and as I tried to cycle past as quickly as possible (very difficult on the poor road), he hit me!! I couldn't believe it! At this point I was really regretting not taking the bussier (and possibly safer despite the traffic) Highway 1. It was a relief to get to Tam Coc eventually, but by this stage I was well and truly over boat trips... This one took almost 3 hours - as the woman rowing the boat decided to stop all along the way back collecting some kind of shellfish. She had tried to sell me embroidery and drinks, and as I had refused to buy anything from her I guess this may have contributed to the slow trip back to the dock. Not having had such a wonderful day I decided to start making the journey to Laos the next day.

So tonight I am Vinh, a city 96km from where I intend to cross the border at Cau Treo. I am a little apprehensive about tomorrow as it is likely I will be crossing the border on my own, as I haven't seen any other travellers here. Hopefully all goes well and will be able to make it to Vientiane by tomorrow night!

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Comments

[Paul]

Now thats what I call getting off the beaten track, it reads like a great adventure including a misunderstanding with the locals which results in being attacked. Good luck in Vientiane

[Dean]

Carry your own stick
It would be more fun if you carried a stick and hit the kids as you rode past...

[Cris]

all part of the adventure !
I think you should carry something on you for those 'surprise' stick times! It sounds great .. even the scam jobs frustrating as they are! This happened to me in Thailand!! Take care. You look great! xxx

[lisa]

kenh nyu tian long?
The crazy stuff that happens to you! Kinda funny but it's easy to laugh comfortably back down here :) Must've been damn scary experience, but all worth it for the chance to cycle there. Take care and keep up these incredible photos. Love, hugs!