Hanoi

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Back in Hanoi after three years to find that the city hasn't changed too much in that time - though the coloured lights bordering Hoan Kiem Lake are new additions to the colour of the city which I'm sure weren't there before! The mayhem of motorbikes, cars and pedestrians crowding the narrow streets of the old town is as crazy as ever - maybe even more so.... It was a challenge navigating the major intersections to cross the street. You can only cross your fingers and walk out into the traffic hoping it all manages to manoeuvre around instead of over you.
However our first challenge was finding the mini bus to take us from the airport to our hotel. Approached by taxi drivers offering fares of $30+ for the trip (and knowing Hanoi has a bad reputation for dishonest taxi drivers and illegal taxis) we eventually asked for help and were directed to the end of the terminal. $3 each and an hour later we were dropped off at the door of our hotel (Hanoi Guesthouse approx $25 night booked on Agoda) in busy Ma May Street in the centre of the old town. Minute room - not much wider than our bed - but clean, plenty of hot water and strong wifi. Plus the friendly young staff all spoke English.After the humidity and heat of Singapore earlier that day, the cold night air came as a shock and we had to layer up before we went outside for dinner. We had made no sightseeing plans for the city as we had visited most of the main attractions previously. We were only spending two nights here before catching the night train to Sapa and onwards overland to China where we planned to spend the next two months in Yunnan, Guizhou, Sichuan and Guangxi. Then another fortnight afterwards to travel overland from China to Cambodia where we were meeting my sisters and Mother in Siem Reap for Easter. Dinner that evening was eaten to the soundtrack of motorcycles negotiating the narrow street outside the restaurant. The weather was even colder next morning as we set off to reacquaint ourselves with the city. Rows of shops selling brightly coloured lacquer products, silk scarves, jade and silver jewellery, tours around Vietnam, paintings and general tourist tat lined the streets near the hotel but the further out you got away from the tourist trail the more local the shops became. The old quarter of approximately 40 streets radiates from Hoan Kiem Lake and still today follows the original early 20th century street layout and is full of dilapidated old houses. Each street specialised in a particular trade, a tradition which is predominately still followed. One street sells only woollen scarves and hats, another ladies underwear, another buttons and zips or tin products, toys, funeral items or shoes. All day we wondered, stopping for regular coffees and cake. We figured the walking might counteract the added calories!I wanted to visit the famous Metrople Hotel which proved harder to find then expected - not helped by the fact that we literally first walked right past the front entrance without realising it. The 'long' route took us down a street to an army barracks where we were promptly turned back by a couple of giggling teenage soldiers on gate duty. We turned in the wrong direction at the end of the street and had to walk around the perimeter of the whole barracks through a fairly unattractive part of the city. Eventually we were rewarded with coffee at the the first five star hotel in the city, opened in 1901, and with a colourful history since. It has recently been renovated and the original fittings, features and furniture retained where possible. The foyer and lounge area, where we were made to feel very welcome for the price of our coffee and beer ( AUD$12 - good value), was extremely plush. Jane Fonda, a long term guest during her peace activist days of the 'American ' war and Joan Baez ( who entertained the guests in the bunkers during the bomb attacks) are prominently mentioned in the hotel's corridor of fame. The bunker was recently reopened for hotel guests only to visit and whilst they were cleaning it out prior to the opening bottles of Australian wine were found. They were left over from supplies the Australian Embassy staff left there after they sheltered there during the war.We didn't do anything else particularly exciting during our couple of days in the city as we had visited everything of interest to us during previous visits. However we ambled a few times around Hoan Kiem Lake and spent a few very interesting hours walking the streets near the perimeter of the old city - they were actually fun and free of the many tourists thronging the the more central areas. We ended up at the wholesale markets, Dong Xuen, in a large covered building. This market specialised in cheap clothing, shoes and bed linen which overflowed from the stalls inside. The aisles were only a couple of feet wide and smallholders were packing large bags with items as people purchased them. Porters were then carrying these enormous bundles above their heads as they pushed down the aisles to motorbike delivery men waiting outside. We had an entertaining half hour watching them load a couple of these sacks on the back go bikes before they drove (very carefully...) away. It was quite an experience and one of the busiest markets of that type we had ever seen. We spent our last afternoon sitting in a cafe reading before going to the station to catch an overnight sleeper train to Sapa. Hanoi has changed a lot in the last 12 years since we first visited the city. The streets certainly are much busier with most of the bicycles being replaced by cars and motorcycles. The old city centre certainly will give you a reasonable insight into life there as the locals go about their daily business but tourism has made a big impact on the feel of the place. The streets are lined with shops selling souvenirs but the footpaths are covered in small family run food eateries where you perch of a tiny plastic stool whilst the owner grills or fries up a snack for you to enjoy. You can still buy fresh beer by the glass for 5,000 dong (25 cents though it was only 2,000 dong last time were here) and join the locals on the street corner each evening to watch the world go by.KFC has a presence though the Big Mac has yet to appear under the 'golden arches'.....

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Photos

Motorcycles or bicycles carry everything....
There is a bike under that pile of warm coats

Comments

[Cheryl]

The beer
Is it ok to drink the curbside beer Linese? Cheryl

[lmh]

Beer
Hi Cheryl, Beer is fine! I'm not a beer drinker but Jerry has certainly drunk it without any problems. It's low alcohol I think. Your trip is drawing nearer. Linese

[Judy]

Just like being back there
Thanks for refreshing my memory love the pic's