Passage to Hanoi, auspicious sightings and walking on water.

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When we left you we were at the border crossing between China and Vietnam.....

The rickety walkway continued round a corner and in front of us was a deserted wide road, with a downhill slope. I wasn't expecting a trek between countries merely a short hop, but it seems that you have to walk down about 200m of road through a barrier across the road (at which was a guard totally disinterested in everything, but wearing Vietnam Army uniform nonetheless) and vere off to the right to a customs and immigration building. That was the last sensible thing for a while...Having been the last to get to the China crossing we were also the last to get ot the Vietnam entry and when we entered the building we were greated by a cacophony of noise and mayhem. Queueing (what little had been understood anyway) had given way to a free for all!

You had to get an immigration card which, obviously, was available from the window furthest from the door. Given we were last in, most people had done this and were either filling them out resting on books, knees, or any other surface appropriate to the task, or trying to get their immigration visa's stamped at the window closest to the door. This led to a pushing shoving contest laden down with 2 rucksacks each to get to the window at the back of the room. Once there at least, we had space to fill out the cards which were relatively straightforward (we are becoming adept at making up Hostel names for the "address in country" section - a good place to start is *insert capital city's name* backpackers, thus Hanoi Backpackers it was). After this, we went back to attempt to get our passports stamped. Imagine the perfect opposite of the village post office and you may be getting the idea. About 20-25 people each crowded around the hatch in the perspex screen seperating the army officials from the people. All talking in the very loud manner that we are starting to grow accustomed to, some shouting across the loud hall to a friend or relative that they are travelling with.

After hanging back thinking that the "queue" would abate after a while, there was no sign. A small Chinese girl offered to take the passports and pass them over to the counter (all in sign language) which we allowed, whilst keeping an eager eye on them. Once in the hands of the officialls we breathed a bit easier. This gave us the opportunity to look around. Next to us a fellow traveller on the bus, a Chinese man with quite literally a hole in his head, slipped a bank note of some kind into the passport he was carrying before handing his over. It was at this point that we thought we may have missed a trick and might be here a while, a look shared by the only two other non-asian people on the bus. It was at this point that we started to talk to each other and we would later discover that he was from Ireland and she was Polish.

We had been standing around off to one side for about 15 minutes when the guard came out of the office via the doorway we were stood in front of with a bundle of passports and started calling names. This meant we found our selves in the middle of a rugby scrum of people trying to get to him to collect passports. After the last one was handed out (none for us) the crowd refocussed on the perspex screen. At this point Gregg got bored of waiting and decided to go in to see if being closer to the screen really did speed things up (not sure how with no means of communication but what the heck). After ten minutes of using the sort of skills picked up in a busy cornish pub to get served, he was somewhere within reaching distance of the counter. It was not long after this that he received his passport and then was shown Lou's - although the guard wouldn't pass him it as it wasn't his (clearly) and wanted her to show her face which after a bit of pointing and gesturing she did, and he looked in the right direction and passed over the passport.

The hard bit done, we then took the passports with the entry stamps to the customs counter along with the entry card, a stamp later and the entry card collected we were into Vietnam.

Another golf buggy trip and into the car/coach park and we could hand back the "tickets" we had been given to wear around our necks like cattle at an auction on the Chinese side of the border, even if it was to board a bus that was half the size of the previous one and we weren't sure if it was the right one. A couple of minutes later, the Irish/Polish couple got on and we felt a bit more relieved. Not long after that and the bus was pulling away only 3/4 full. What happened to the other passengers we had left China with I'm not sure, I think there was a second coach but to be honest I really wasn't bothered.

The journey to Hanoi was interesting as it was only at this point that we really struck up a proper conversation with the other couple and also because the driving in Vietnam is very different to that in the UK. Basically you pull out to go past something whilst beeping at them to pull in out of your way. If something is coming in the other direction you keep going and expect them to swerve out of your way (unless it is bigger than you in which case you give way) which most things did, given we were in a coach. We did however have a couple of times when the driver had to lean hard on the anchors throwing us about a bit.

We also managed a quick 5 minute stop after about 30-40mins which I had hoped was a toilet stop but no it was a stop to buy a type of fruit that looks a bit like an artichoke but was peeled to reveal a soft stickyish white flesh, at least that's what it looked like. Another hour and then we did stop at the services where we got a quick drink and used the facilities.

Back on the bus and another couple of hours before we arrived in Hanoi. It was about 5pm local time(an hour behind China) making for a very long day, however we weren't finished yet. Getting out of a bus as a white western person with a big backpack at a stop well known for dropping off people from another country sort of signals you out as a target for taxi touts and people trying to get some commission. So, having allready spoken to the couple on the bus, we had decided to go in a taxi together to a hostel in town called the Little Hanoi Hotel as it had had a few good reviews on a site we had used. We agreed a price and all 4 of us crammed into the taxi despite it not really having the room, and set off not sure if the driver was going to take us where we wanted to go or if her migth try to tell us that the hotel had moved/changed name/burned down etc - which is one fo the standard tout tactics apparently.

We were pleasantly surprised when we arrived at the desired hotel, and not charged any more money than had been agreed. We ventured in and sat down in the lobby whilst the lady on the desk dealt with somebody else and just chatted.

When she returned to us, she started to ask us about staying and if we all wanted to stay together (which she couldn't do as she was full) when we said no we didn't need to stay as the four of us we were offered choice of dorm or private rooms, the other couple opted for a dorm room, but we again went for a private room deciding that the remants of jetlag and the need to properly beat it outwieged the price difference, which after all was only about US$6 so not worth moaning about for a couple of nights. (A concept we have since agreed we must stop adopting else we will be coming home early). However the hotel was full for private rooms and, as such, they could offer us a room in their sister hotel across town at the same rate. We agreed to have a look at this and they organised a taxi and paid for it for us to be taken to their door. The King Ly Hotel was slightly better on our arrival than the previous hostel/hotel and had a more hotel feel to it. the room was a decent size and we immediately agreed. We had finally made it, and nothing was more urgent than a shower as we both felt horrid after the long journey.

This led us to discover that a bathroom where the shower curtain is not along the edge of the bath, but between the bath and the bathroom door doesn't really do much good as a shower curtain. The bathroom was soaking after only one of us had cleansed, let alone two.

This essential ritual done Gregg tackled the combination safe in the room. An interesting concept in security when the combination was not changeable and the instructions were stuck to the top of it! Also as well as needing the combination you also needed the key attached to the room keys! However, after a good two or three attempts, he got the hang of it and the valuables went in before we headed out.

We had been informed by the lady at the other hostel that tonight there were fireworks by the Hoan Kiem Lake in the Old Quarter where we were staying at 8pm. When we headed out this piece of information hadn't really sunk in and as such the absolutely manic traffic was a bit of a shock. Roads the width of residential streets would have 15 motorbikes/mopeds driving alongside each other relentlessly, with the odd car/truck interspersed between them. Also a few cyclo's - which are like Tuc Tuc's in reverse as the carriage bit is on the front, and the cyclist/taxi driver sits behind and cycles.

The quite substantial pavements these roads have are however not for walking along. They are for parking as many of the mopeds/bikes as possible and for sitting on small plastic stools (that would look at home in a pre-school) to eat from the various street food sellers. This leaves little option but to walk along the edge of the road in what would normally be described as the gutter, but I have to say was not actually dirty.

We took a short walk to look for some food, armed with the guidebook and the map supplied by the hotel and eventually settled on a cafe called the Tamarind Cafe, which was a vegetarian place that served a variety of dishes. Far from local street food but, again, tired minds seek out familiar things and this fitted the bill. The bill however didn't really fit the pocket as it was more than we had expected and resulted in another agreement that we have to start eating in cheaper establishments. That said, it was very nice. Lou had Falafel which was bright green balls, not the usual colour of Falafel, and Gregg had some spring rolls and we both shared a coconut and pineapple curry made with rice, served in a hollowed out pineapple, washed down by a couple of coconut cocktails.

We decided to go for a drink on our way back to the hotel, and stopped in the lonely planet recommended pub "Le Pub" I have to say it was OK but nothing special, although a nice spot to people watch. It was sat here, partaking of the aforementioned task, when the advice about the fireworks we had been given earlier was remembered, along with the realisation of why we had been almost hearded in the direction we had walked from the cafe to the bar. After a quick discussion we decided that it was all a bit much for the first night and that going back to the hotel was the best option.

We made it back to the hotel just as the fireworks started. The fireworks starting caused quite a stir and many people stopping on any street corner or spot in the road where they could get a view. We ducked into the hotel to remember that the restaurant bar in the hotel was on the top floor so we headed up. Once there the stairs continued and there were voices to be heard so we explored further to be rewarded by a roof top with the staff upon it looking out over the lake. We watched the fireworks for about ten minutes and, despite them being very impressive, a firework is a firework! So we decided to head for bed, and as we did they seemed to stop! The following morning the Lonely Plant enlightened us as to the reason for the fireworks - 2 September was Vietnam Day.

We awoke to a loud banging the next morning in the pitch black and I started to think that the "nice little hotel" wasn't so nice after all, but then I checked my watch and remembered that our pathetic "window" looked out into a shaft that opened to natural light about 6 floors up, so it was bound to be dark irrespective of the time, which happened to be about 8am and just about normal. It seems our body clocks may finally have arrived in SE Asia! YAY!

We got up, and had our breakfast, a buffet style affair where fried rice was on the menu along with various fruit and fried eggs. I can't remember what we selected apart from the very strange coconut cakes that were also there and the donut style balls but without the sugar! Who knows why they form part of a breakfast but here they do.

We lazed for a while after that and ventured out after a few hours into the heat of the day. The contrast in the place between the daytime and last night's celebration party could not have been more marked. Whilst still very busy the pavements were just about walkable and the traffic was about half as intense. Only then did we realise that arriving on a celebration day isn't the best introduction.

What followed was our attempt to follow the lonely planet walking tour of the area, which did acheive one thing - sweating, and also possibly sore feet, but not much more. The "sights" were either not interesting or closed, and most of it was merely orientation but one which we hoped would serve us well. It did allow us to see the various districts each selling a certain type of item, shoes, clothes, tin, blacksmithry, bamboo which serves as scaffolding, toys, lanterns etc. The highlights of this tour being the very start - the bridge over to the temple in the middle of the lake, and especially the fact that we got to see not one but two turtles when apparently you can go years without seeing them (I'm not sure how as I'm sure they have to breathe but anyway). That should mean we are blessed with good luck. Fingers crossed. Also the very end where the cathedral was, which was impressive.

Whilst walking, we had decided that we were possibly missing out on social interaction being in an "hotel" as opposed to a hostel and as such decided that we would move back to the place that we arrived at prior to being moved. So, at the end of the walking tour, we finally accepted one of the many offers we had had for a cyclo ride and wedged our selves in. The video I will try and publish once I have edited it, it truly is an experience!

On arrival at the hostel, we sat and explained that we were from the sister hotel and asked for the complimentary tea which we were allowed. And in the meantime looked into the Halong tours on the wall, and surfed the net trying to decide what and where to go next. Reception was busy as always and, as such, we booked the next night's room online whilst sitting in the place that we wanted to stay in! So much for human interaction!

Eventually we left and strolled back home to our room, to chill out and then ready ourselves for the evening. We had spied a cafe we wanted to try for dinner opposite the previous evening's watering hole and headed for it. We were ushered in and up the stairs onto a slightly shonky first floor (it seemed to move underfoot) but we sat and ordered our meals and they were both good and under half the price of the previous night! Progress seems to be being made!

For once, Lou got the better meal although given that we generally share it is of little odds.

After dinner and we searched out another pub where our neighbours from dinner had also headed coincidently and were playing chess in the window seats. We sat just through the doors and sat and started on the postcards that we had bought on route.(Be warned they are coming) A couple of beers later, and a really nice chat with the Vietnamese waitress about the pictures on the postcards and the differences between her country and ours, we left to go home for another well earned sleep.

We are far from night owls but at the same time we don't really care, we are having fun and that is the main thing.

We awoke this morning to the alarm for the first time that I can think of and despite not really wanting to get up we did. Breakfasted with more of the same and after a short stint of packing headed out to the post office, to send some cards, and also one of Lou's medical samples. Another classic example of the Vietnamese/Asian queueing system- whilst there were only two people there when we arrived, the two staff carried on ignoring them and us for about 10 minutes while they filled sacks with parcels then ignored who was there first and did what they wanted, serving us before one of them. We asked how much, got the answer then they saw the medical parcel and passed us a couple of forms to fill out. On viewing we realised one of the boxes was for a passport number. We were about to head back, as we didn't have this information, when they just looked at us and waved and then took the forms back half filled out with empty boxes on then stuck some postage stickers on it and asked us for the money! We shall have to wait and see if anything arrives!

We then went to a shop where Lou exchanged her book as she had finished one already, and then back to the hotel to check out. We got the big bags downstairs and whilst Gregg went for the other smaller ones Lou was asked where we were going? After explaing that we were off to the other hotel/hostel we were offered to stay here again, and then asked what was wrong with their service. We explained nothing but we wanted a more social place and they eventually accepted it, and ordered us a taxi, very kindly explaining that it would be paid for at the other end.

On Arrival the hostel had no idea about the taxi fair being paid so Gregg dutifully paid for the taxi, whilst they checked with the hotel. Give them their due after the phone call they refunded the taxi fair, and showed us to our room.

We bummed about for a bit and then headed out to find some lunch. After walking for a while, we realised that the reason the street food we were looking for wasn't very easy to find was it was nearly 3pm and lunchtime was over, so we headed for a cafe. After being the only people in it for a while, more started to come in and a girl/lady we both guessed was similar in age to ourselves sat opposite. We struck up a conversation and it turns out she had been in Greece for the month previously and had only just flown in at a similar time to us but via Kuala Lumpar. She was also heading to Halong bay tomorrow as we were (but with a different tour as far as we know) and was then off to Sapa in the mountians something we are skipping in favour of getting to a beach faster. We were both heading in a similar route and given our more relaxed schedule than most may bump into one another again, who knows.

After lunch, we returned to the hostel and did some more relaxing (and blog writing) prior to going out about 7pm to go to the famous Vietnamese Water Puppetry show.

A very interesting 45mins in the theatre watching a slighlty more upmarket and balletic punch and judy. It was an experience I'm glad we did but I wouldn't be rushing back. (Also for any people thinking of going, do so, but the "cheap seats" are actually often better as they are at the back of the theatre, a bit like going to the highest point at the back of the cinema for the best view)

After that, a quick bite to eat which neither of us really enjoyed much as the first real experience of "street food" was a major let down as we were served a pre determined selection of lukewarm dishes. we left most of it and, had we been in england, wouldn't have paid but at the price we couldn't be bothered to argue. We paid left and returned to the hostel.

I sit here on the bed writing this knowing I have to pack my bag before I sleep so that it can be left at the hostel while we go on our tour to Halong bay (the amazing bit at the end of the Top Gear Vietnam Special) and need to pack my little rucksack to fit in the list of stuff we were told to take: Suncream, wet weather gear, swimming stuff, passport, money for drinks (no insect cream you don't need that there are no insects!)
We are looking forward to it, and will report back.

For now I sign off leaving a few key messages:
The hunt for Yum Yum Berries is still coming up negative.
We are still Dehli Belly free (although the street food experience today may change matters)
The toilets are still western style (only spotting one hole in the floor on the train)
Most importantly we are still having fun!

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Photos

Green Falafel
At least under the sesame seeds it was green

Balloons
Attached to points within Hoan Kiem Lake the day after independance celebrations.

Lonely Bike
Just before the bridge over to Ngoc Son Temple - one of the few that we have seen parked all by itself.

Baby Turtle
The turtles that live in the lake are meant to be rare and very lucky if you see them. We saw this baby and an adult swimming at the same time. Lets hope for double luck!

The Huc Bridge
Which leads to the Ngoc Son Temple

Fruit and Veg
One of the many colouful stalls on the pavement.

You need a Hat?
If you do I reckon this guy can deliver!

Delivery vehicle
It seems the bicycle is more than a mode of transport in Asia, this is one spectacularly colourful example of what the bike really means to these nations' people, more a way of life than a simple mode of transport (although becoming superseeded by the motorbike)

Specialist Shop
No not that kind..this one seemed to sell sticky tape, and only sticky tape. Why you could need that many varieties I'm not sure but if you needed some for that specialist job I bet they had it.

What's the story?
One of the more interesting menu items/translations we have spotted so far.

Chicken and Vegetables
For once Lou's pork with lemongrass and chili on the other side of the table was the better choice but normally I pick better. You can't win them all.

Water puppetry
The Orchestra and Choir - I say this loosley as although clearly professional it is nothing like the singing or music we would associate with either word.

Water puppetry
The man in the middle is being paddled by the others in the dragon boat. He is the hero (I think).

Water puppetry
Some women dancing, possibly on some golden dragons, but I could be wrong.