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Asia » Vietnam » Red River Delta » Hanoi
March 30th 2009
Published: April 9th 2009
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Watch out everybody, cliché alert. “Good morning Vietnam!” Sorry, I had to do it, but come on- how often do I get the chance?

Now, when Jian and I first got to Thailand we were shocked out of our little, tight Western Undies by our insane trip from the airport to our hotel. We thought that introduction to a country could not possibly be surpassed. But yep, wrong! Jian was fortunate enough to get a seat belt- what I got was a one way ticket to heaven with a short stop over in the windshield should our driver choose to date with gravity at any moment. Now the driving in Thailand we thought was pretty artistic, but the driving in Vietnam is an absolute assault on the senses. It is thirty percent driving, sixty percent beeping and ten percent luck. Hanoi has six million people in it and five million motorbikes- just to paint you a picture.

We we’re both overwhelmed with the intense fish out of water feeling that comes with entering a new country. You look around as a shop owner turns plumber on his own shop and shovels crap out of his shop-front piping with his hands; and think: oh my god, we’re in Vietnam. Or you look around and see Dog on the menu and think: oh my god, we’re in Vietnam. If you eat on the street you sit on small kindergarten chairs- so my recommendation to anyone travelling to this country is- if you plan to eat, plan to wear underwear! Also in contrast to Thailand, the food here is lighter- with more an emphasis on water over oils and cream- thus making it easier on the tomach. Jian and I love Pho’ which is one of the National dishes of Vietnam, basically it’s broth with noodles and beef/chicken or pork- which you can buy on the streets ultra cheap.

Kids breakdance in the street. When it rains people wear plastic bag on their heads. Everybody is trying to sell you something. There is none of the PC Western politeness; they will drop the shoulder on you “Bitter sweet sympathy” style if you get in their way. This place is like no other.

We caught a Taxi and watched with amazement as our ten km journey suddenly turned into a 19.5 km journey within a space of thirty seconds- we we’re furious. And this is a serious common theme over here. Unlike Thailand where the tourism industry is just as strong/the prime economic thrust for the country- Vietnam is only just catching on to what a commodity the common tourist is… They are just realising that they can take you for a total ride and get away with it because your average tourist rightly does not know how much they should be charged for a two minute taxi ride or a bottle of water. We met a lovely young waiter in a restaurant who explained to us: “Vietnam is a wonderful place, with wonderful people. But the economic crush is hurting us and is turning normally nice people into liars and cheats.” We literally struggle to buy a loaf of bread without having to fight for a reasonable price. In our time here we have literally been charged six times the value for simple products or commodities. It’s insane. Just because we are travelling does not mean we have money. We both understand that yes- tips help; but that tip is our next meal… yes we would like to give more to you- but you are already over charging me drastically. Jian and I have come to the conclusion that when you ask somebody ‘how much is this?’- if they go ‘uhhhhhh’ for longer than six seconds- JUST WALK AWAY.

We love the beauty of this country and the kindness we see in the people, but it is a sad and frustrating time to be travelling in Vietnam- as the economic crush tightens its grip. It’s become apparent that Vietnam is the ‘new’ Thailand- everyone is travelling here! It’s new and hip- Thailand is now passé- and this is all happening as a result. If only we had come here five years ago we would have seen the beauty of this country, minus the turista-tourniquet.

All this said- unlike Thailand, the tourists here are fantastic and sooooo much more friendly! We have met some really lovely people who have dropped everything to help us. Lets hope this continues! We’re all in this together.

Hanoi highlights: The Hoi Chin Mhin complex where the president lived- where a lovely tour guide gave us fascinating insight into the man and where he lived. The insanity of the ‘Earth Hour’- as everyone left their houses, jumped on their motorbikes and the streets ran with engine lights- and we are talking thousands and thousands of motorbikes- the streets were like lava! And definitely walking the street: they don’t stop, they won’t stop- they never will… so brave it and just walk into torrents of traffic- they will beep and miss you. It is terrifying, but strangely liberating. Oh and of course: Vietnamese Water Puppets!




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9th April 2009

Love the new shirt aaron :p hahaha you are actually looking darker too aaron! I love the way you write. p.s tell jian to stop being lazy and shave his beard, he is looking like old old old jian :p not old jian!

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