Visiting Uncle Ho

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Ho Chi Minh is revered here. So much so that when he died, his wishes of cremation and ashes to be placed inside 3 urns at specific points within Vietnam were firmly ignored in favour of preservation & placing inside a Mausoleum so all could pay their respects to Ba Ho (Uncle Ho). Visiting him is something of a surreal experience.

Firstly, opening hours at the Mausoleum are strictly limited to 0800 - 1100 daily except Monday and Friday. While the Mausoleum is open, one can not wander around Ho Chi Minh Square as normal - so many green-uniformed men patrol the periphery and shout if one strays a bit close. The only way in is on the far east side of the Square where you join a queue for the pleasure of having your bags and camera taken off you, then another queue to go through a metal detector. The guards then form the queue into two very orderly lines and God help you if you stray out of line - a whistle is blown and much shouting ensues. The lines are then escorted to the entrance in reverential silence along a path. The guards frown upon any noise and make "shhh-ing" sounds if people start talking.

Outside the massive doors, which at this time are wide open are two guards of honour and flowers for Uncle Ho. The line files inside the marble mausoleum in sombre silence, watched by the ever-watchful guards, at exact points, the lines move up some stairs in absolute silence. It's quite amazing just how silent a crowd can be.

After a few moments, one files right past the open coffin in a slow U shape, no stopping is allowed. I have to say he did look remarkably well for someone who has been dead nearly 40 years. A little pale, but still... Actually, I had timed my visit very well as he had just returned from Moscow for restorative work and so was in good shape. His hands looked very elegant and he looked extremely peaceful. A huge flag for Vietnam hangs in State above the coffin, the vivid red and gold star a bright flash of colour against the sombre black and grey of the marble walls.

A few short moments later I was blinking in the bright sunshine and normal chatter from others had started up, which sounded abnormally loud after the silence.

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