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Published: August 8th 2007
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Hanoi
Not much to report on our flight from Bangkok...we're seasoned pros when it comes to flying now. However, things did not go as smoothly once we touched down in Hanoi. After having our passports scrutinized by immigration we went to collect our baggage. Saz's, Micheal's but no bag for Dave (or for the other three victims); how annoying! Description of the bag was taken before we caught the shuttle bus into Hanoi city centre, but the fun was not over yet.... we were mobbed by taxi drivers, paid an extortionate amount for a taxi, and listened to a hotel room price inflate from $7 to $16, before eventually finding a nice hotel to spend the night.
Thankfully we chose the perfect hotel and the morning lie-in was bliss in our comfy bed with en-suite bathroom, mini fridge, and satellite tv - not bad for $10! We spent the rest of the day exploring Hanoi by foot with a walk around the lake and visit to Ngoc Island, home of the 'Turtle Temple', famous as the site where a giant turtle reportedly surfaced in the lake and reclaimed the sword given to a hero by ancestor spirits in
order to win a war. The turtle is showcased (now well and truly stuffed) for anyone who dares to disregard the legend.
Good news - Dave's bag has been found. Bad news - he has to go to the airport to collect it. So the epic re-claim journey began... first with a moto drive, waiting hours for the shuttlebus to the airport, re-claiming the bag, trying and failing to get compensation or an apology from the flight agent, hours waiting to get back to the city, and moto back to the hotel... but at least its all still there! Night spent at a local Jazz club; very cool, but strangely ended at 11pm when everything closed down. Vietnam is strange like that!
The following morning was spent booking various trips to Halong Bay and trekking in the hill tribes of Sapa, before an afternoon of history at the prison museum. Built by the French during there occupation to hold political prisoners (in poor conditions), then later used to hold American prisoners of the Vietnam war... very interesting. Early night in prepartion for trip to Halong Bay.
Halong Bay
After our 8am pick up the
bus took us through 3 hours of countryside, rice paddies, and rural villages, to Halong city. From the port we boarded our luxury Junk boat and set off to Halong Bay with its beautiful islands riddled with caves and fringed by sand. First stop at an island with a huge cave system, impressive stalegtites/mites but the effect sadly tainted by the crazy colourful lighting and added features (i.e. water feature, penguin shaped bins, and concrete walkways). Back on the boat for a spot of sun baking as we passed into a natural bay created by a cluster of islands, then a great time kayaking in the calm waters at sunset. Dinner on the boat was very tasty, and coupled with a night of star gazing, made for a perfect end to the day.
Awoke at 5am to watch the sunrise over the islands; very tranquil but not as impressive as the sunset. After a few more hours sleep we sailed to one of the larger islands for a hill top view of the bay and time on the beach, before being called back to the boat for what we assumed to be more adventures. Sadly not, as contrary to
the itinerary we headed straight back to port, thus missing out on a fair few sights including a floating market and pearl farm. Luckily one of the other passengers had a copy of the itinerary and so we argued our case (or should I say Dave argued our case while the rest of us nodded in agreement), resulting in an apology and $5 refund from the boss upon our return to Hanoi.
Back in the city we killed some time before the night train up to Sapa, our trekking and homestay trip in the tribal villages of north Vietnam.
Sapa
After a good nights sleep on a 'soft sleeper' train (6 coffin style bunks in a carriage), we arrived in Loa Cai, and a waiting minibus took us 1 hour to the mountain town of Sapa where we showered and ate breakfast at The Summit Hotel, before meeting our guide. Cuong introduced himself to our group of 5, and after initial confusion over Saz's name we set off towards the first hill tribe village with a gang of tribe children from the H'mong tribe in tow (N.B Cuong pronounced Sarah as "Salad", causing great hilarity
for Annette who then called Saz "Salad" for the rest of the trip).
Cuong was truely a fantastic guide; explaining the daily life of the tribes, answering any questions, and talking with locals of each tribe (quite a challenge when every tribe has their own distinct language). He made light of every situation, even mocking the calls of
You buy from me?
from the women and children selling clothes, blankets, and jewellery. Our gang of tribes children were also great entertainment; asking us an endless stream of questions and making everyone impressive flower garlands as we walked. Saz made such good friends with the children that it was sad to say goodbye once we arrived at their village.
From the H'mong tribe we walked on to the next valley, home to the Dzay tribe and our homestay for the evening. In the village Dave spotted a snake weaving its way through one of the rice paddies; Cuong added to this excitment by picking it up by the tail and trying to throw it towards the screaming tribes women. Funny in retrospect but very scary at the time, even though the snake was just a python. Spent the evening sat on the
front patio (aka dirt yard) of our homestay playing cards and talking until dinner; a fantastic feast prepared by our hostess Hien. This was followed by much 'Happy Water' rice vodka served out of a water bottle and drinking games; we'll never look at water bottles quite the same...
Mot, hai, ba... ZO!
- aka 'cheers'!
Saz woke early the next day, and after the 2 second headache reminder of 'happy water', she went outside to view the peaceful morning. The hamlet was so quiet that all could be heard was the birds and the soothing "tsss" sound of the farmers to their water buffalos ploughing the rice paddies below. After a morning welcome of
Hello Money
from the persistent old woman selling handmade blankets, Saz watched the farmers until the other group members woke. Hien made us local tea, which was followed by a scrumptious pancake breakfast made by Cuong. The pancakes just kept on coming and we were stuffed, so we offered the rest to a tribe's woman in hope that the food would persuade her into leaving (as much as we loved the experience of being around them, their constant following and droaning request of "you buy?" was annoying after
a while!)
After a quick pommy shower (i.e. bucket wash) we said farewell to our host and set off on our final day of trekking. The land rose and dipped with each hillock making a good rest point, and walking along the mud 'crust' of each rice paddy was exciting for all but Rhianna who has a fear of heights. Eventually we reached the bamboo forest, and we scrambled/slid down through the poles to a rock waterfall cascade with a good view across the valley to the mountain on the otherside. Rested for a while before heading down to the river and Cuang Ta Chai village for lunch. Red Dzao tribes women surrounded us as we ate, trying their very best to get in one last sell before we left. Our feeble "No thank you's" were met by cheeky "Yes thank you", and the banter continued until one party got tired (generally us)... very funny! Our time eventually came to an end, and we left the tribes on a bus back to Sapa town for a shower and dinner before our night train back to Hanoi.
Walking in brilliant sunshine through the villages, observing life and talking with the locals, are memories that will stay forever. Beautiful countryside shaped by rice paddies built into the hillside like layers of a huge cake, cheeky children playing games with you, and men using water buffalos to plough the fields. Simply amazing!
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Edna
non-member comment
Love the Photo's
You both seem to change your looks with every country you visit - mingling with the locals - where will you be on your birthday Sarah? Enjoy it whatever! lots of love EDxxxxxxxx