Sapa

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Friday 4th and Saturday 5th October 2013



Very crowded bus of we tourists from many hotels arrived at the train station. We assemble around our guide and he hands our our tickets. Some confusion over wether Mark and I were in the same sleeping cabin, but we were assured we were. Train station bedlam. People everywhere, locals selling every type of food you can imagine to have on the train, tourists with guides, locals getting frustrated with tourists. Overall I felt very overwhelmed.



We arrive between two trains and us and a Polish couple were told to "stay there", which was on the tracks between two trains, while our guide took all the others off. We had many helpful people coming to try and help us, but our guide said to stay here so that is what we were doing. Then a train came along so off the tracks we had to go. I was getting more nervous by the second, knowing that we had to share our cabin with 2 other people and the fact that we had no idea what was going on and our guide had run off.



Suddenly he appeared again, and it turns out we were on a different train. So off we went. Found our carriage and cabin, so glad Mark suggested to just bring back packs and not our suitcase! Had no other cabin buddies for quite a while and then a very glamorous Vietnamese lady in the highest heels, and full make up and hair came in with her "sugar daddy", he was just dropping her off and soon left. Next was a young lady from Lao Chi who had moved to Hanoi for work and was going back to Lao Chi for a visit. They couldn't be more different.



The beds were quite comfy and both of us got a reasonable amount of sleep. Wake up call at 5.45 and we arrived in Lao Chi. Managed to eventually find our driver and the bus full of other tourists we were going with (amongst the hundreds) and off we headed to Sapa, about 38km away.



Quite a French style hotel,Auberge Dang Trung, breakfast straight away when we arrived with a few other tourists, then up to our room for a shower and change and ready to head off walking. Met our guide Li from the Black H'mong minority people. The Black H'mong came from China 300 years ago and have several villages here. There are many hill tribes in the area and they have their own traditional costumes which are worn daily and not just for the tourists. Li's English was quite good and she loved to talk so we gained quite a bit of information from her. She taught herself English from the tourists coming through her village as she grew up.



Beautiful sunny and quite clear day so we cold see for miles. also ended up sunburnt.



As we started walking with Li, just the two of us, 3 other ladies and an 8 year old girl tags along, Mark and his harem. The chatted and made us things out of the grasses and plants along the way. They were also from Li's village and tribe. We walked 6 km along the southwest of Sapa along the side of Moung Valley to Y Linh Ho village of the Black H'mong. Had lunch there on the side of the river just down from the hydro electric power station. At lunch our tag along ladies bought out all their hand sewn crafts for us to buy. If I bought something from one I had to buy from each of them, and the same value of each so bought a bag or cushion cover from each of them. Lots of other ladies and children then gathered around trying to sell things but it is understood that the ladies that walk with you are the only ones to buy from.



After lunch a different 2 ladies joined us from the Red Giay (pronounced Zai) minority people. We walked another 4 kms though Lao Chai village and then to the bus meeting place. Of course we then had to buy from the last 2 ladies, but we had very little money left so had do do a deal. The most gorgeous old lady who Li said was about 80, but looked about 110, came past and I asked to take her photo, that was fine as long as I gave her a little money. Such a beautiful face.



What a wonderful day, the scenery was magnificent, green, rice terraces, water buffalo, different people and costumes, colour in all the villages. So much to learn. Walked past indigo plants (my hand is still blue from where Li rubbed the leaves on there). This is used to dye all the hemp fabric that they weave themselves to make their new clothes during the winter for new year. Mark carried hemp leaves around with him for a while that was just picked from the bush, they use all parts of the plants and animals, and nothing is wasted. Western society has a thing or two to learn from that.



Lovely dinner at the hotel and early to bed, on a very hard bed. Nice to be cool and sleep with the windows open instead of air-conditioning.



Up ready to go again today. Li arrived as we were having breakfast, having walked her 5 km into town. Headed out south west today to Cat Cat village. Stopped at a hotel high on the hill for a cuppa and enjoy the view. Li wouldn't have anything, but sat with us an sewed and chatted. On we went to Cat Cat. Stopped at a shop selling North Face clothing (it is made in Vietnam and every second shop sells it, very cheap compared to Aus) Mark bought 2 pairs of trousers for $15 each and a pair of shoes for $25. Li laughed and said it was his shopping day today.



Onto the magnificent waterfalls a bit further away. Little shop selling some BBQ over the coals food. We had a little kebab of stalk mushrooms wrapped in beef and a bamboo stick with sticky rice in that when cracked open you dip the sticky rice in sesame seeds and salt. Yummmmmm. I went and watched some ethnic minority dance display while Mark went and dipped his feet in the water, crystal clear and straight from the mountain.



On a bit further a then the rest of the trip was uphill back to Sapa. I chicken out and decided to catch a motorbike back. At 100,00 VND ($5) good value. Mark on one behind Li's husband and Li and I on the other behind her cousin. Great ride, hair raising but lots of fun!



Back to hotel and goodbye to Li, not until she had sorted out the hotel for us and checked our train tickets and made sure we knew what time to be back for tea and to catch the bus to the train, a real little mother. I asked for her address to send her a photo and she said it would be easier to email! Lives in a little village in a bamboo hut but has email, that's Vietnam!



Free afternoon so had lunch, shower and explored the town. Face-timed the kids while sitting having a beer and writing up this, don't you love technology, was able to show them downtown Sapa!



Back to hotel for 5pm for tea and bus at 6pm to head back on overnight train. If you want to visit Vietnam a good few days in Sapa is a must.

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