The Mystic of Halong Bay

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Another of life’s dreams that l can tick off the list

Every since l saw a picture in a geography book in school about 30 years ago l have also wanted to see Halong Bay. It always gave me a sense of mystery from a land far, far way especially for a child for 10 years old. So today when l awoke l couldn’t wait to see this for real. We leave our hotel in Hanoi at about 7am and take the 4 hour drive. After 8 months of travelling the early mornings still don't get any easier, and within minutes I’m asleep at the back of the coach. When l awoke the scenery had changes from the city madness for tall buildings and thousands of motorbikes to rolling green hills, large lakes and fisherman’s villages along their banks.

We stop for refreshments at another factory/shop with items made by handicapped adults; they were making fantastic embroidery pictures that were for sale, but quiet expensive. Once refreshed we leave to travel another hour or so towards my ever nearing dream.

Ha Long Bay is located in Quáng Ninh province, Vietnam. The bay features thousands of limestone karsts and isles in various sizes and shapes. The bay has a 120 kilometre long coastline and is approximately 1,553 square kilometres in size with 1969 islets. Several of the islands are hollow, with enormous caves, other support floating villages of fishermen, who ply the shallow waters for 200 species of fish and 450 different kinds of mollusks. Another specific feature of Halong Bay is the abundance of lakes inside the limestone islands, for example, Dau Be Island has six enclosed lakes. All these island lakes occupy drowned dolines within fengcong karst.

One of the great natural wonders of Asia, Halong Bay is the single most popular side trip from Hanoi. The beauty of the bay and its 3000 islands is so awesome that an excursion there should be considered an essential part of any visit to Northern Vietnam. A one or two day trip also makes a delightful and inexpensive romantic getaway if you meet someone special.

After four hours on a hellish road (which is slowly being repaved), you will be rewarded with some of the most spectacular and memorable sightseeing of your trip. There is plenty to explore in the 4000 square kilometre body of water, and it is easy to find peaceful places to swim, fish, or just relax without seeing another soul, yet surrounded by majestic scenery.

Despite what geologists may claim, the bay was actually created when an immense dragon plunged to Earth here before recorded history. Its mighty tail carved the great stone seabed violently before the creature flew away to the place where legends are born. This fable does not seem so farfetched as you sail among thousands of limestone outcroppings, which look like so many blades thrust deep into the mist from below the sea. Many are barren, weathered and rocky. Others are cloaked in vegetation so dense that it is impossible to see the stone beneath. At dusk, they all take on mysterious shades of gray, mauve and olive.

Can a dream live up to the reality of real life?

We finally arrive at the dock of Halong Bay and l am looking at the hundreds of boats that take its passengers on day trip and overnight trips around the bay. I remember standing with Bernie and looking at the different types of vessels afloat on the bay.

“I hope it’s gonna be that boat over there!” I said to Bernie who was standing next to me.

“No way! It’s too nice, that one” With a smile.

“Positive thinking, and it will be trust me” Even though l didn’t believe the words l was saying.

“We will see” With yet another smile.

After about 10 minutes Thanh calls us other to the side of the dock, and sure enough we are led to the same boat, both myself and Bernie had been talking about. The boat had a large restaurant style deck with about 8 sleeping rooms below and a top viewing deck. My room was No 6 and had two single beds, a shower with basin & Toilet. So after dumping my overnight bag in my room it was time to investigate the rest of our new home for the day and night. On the top deck we were watching as the Captain inch by inch reversed the vessel into the busy harbour, not easy when there was only about an inch either side of us with other touring boats packed in along the dock side. Even old ladies rowing their little canoes were weaving in & out between us. So just like the roads in Vietnam the rivers and harbours are just as busy with life too.

Once we were out in the open waters making our way towards Halong Bay lunch was served in the middle deck, and yet another tasty meal was put before us. So whilst eating and drinking we watched from the comfort of our boat as we sailed towards my dream location. After lunch had finished most of the group made its way on the top deck once again to watch as the large limestone rocks covered in lush green trees and other vegetation pass by us. What made this spectacle even more profound and memorable was the eerie mist that the overcast weather had plunged the rocks around us. So as true to the memory of the picture l could remember, it was exactly the same. So sitting on the deck watching this amazing sight before me, for the first time since seeing the Taj Mahal tears began to flow.

They even try selling you things whilst you are swimming in the bloody sea!

After passing fish farms floating by the large rock mountains and watching other boats filled with either day or overnight passengers it was time to dock by one of the rocks for a spot of swimming. So myself, Paul & Allison soon changed and jumped from the highest point that we were allowed too and into the FREEZING water below. Mine you once in and floated around for a while you soon warm up, within a few minutes of being in the water about 3 woman in their small boats filled with beer, wine and other goodies appeared from no-where and began to try selling us all sorts, funny really as where would l have put my wallet?. So we spent our time playing around with them asking how much for this? And how much for that?

Once back on board and dried off it was time to up anchor and make our way to the caves of Hang Sung Sot We made our way up the stairs and towards a great viewing platform in the rocks that looked over the bay and onto the boats docked all around us. So photo time again and once we were finished Thanh moved us forwards again and up more stairs until he led us to the first of many amazing and breathtaking sights.

All we needed now was Dinosaurs to appear and that would have made the day complete

Over the course of many visits to see caves and the Stalagmites & Stalactites that each has to offer, l have never seen such an overwhelming and truly awesome sights as this. We travelled through about six or seven small & large caves all lit up using different colour halogen lights that gave you the chance to experience something like never before. In one of the larger caves all that was needed was Dinosaurs to appear and l would have died a very happy man. Looking around this large area of brightly coloured Stalagmites & Stalactites you felt like you were either on the set of a Hollywood set or taken back millions of years. The pictures l have posted on this blog will not and do not express the size and scale of this area and how magnificent the whole thing is either.
We set sail again and pass bigger and better rock formations and we then find our place to anchor and settle for the night. Not before dinner is served and after we crucify some well know songs on the Karaoke machine. The only ones that sung to us with beauty were Thanh and the Captain of the boat who sung love songs in Vietnamese to us.

Another fantastic night’s sleep this time aboard our boat and then it was time to have breakfast before we made the hour long boat ride back to the harbour once again. As we came closer and closer to the port l could not help but look back at the rocks behind us and feel so lucky to have finally seen for myself how truly special this place is and, l hope will always remain for others to see.

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Photos

Nice Boat
about $200 dollars a night