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Published: September 13th 2010
Well after another noisy night in Dong Hoi (the staff/family from the hotel wake early and are noisy, and the traffic starts early too, as does the beeping) we awoke at about 8am, only to laze for a bit longer as despite having a proper window, assisting with the body clock letting us know it was morning, we had also had a noisy night on really hard beds and so we weren’t in a rush to wake.
After both agreeing that a bag repack may be in order we emptied the bags and repacked, with a clean and dirty rucksack as opposed to a his and hers one. We then sat and tried to establish the plan for the day, at least until we had to get to the train.
After checking the language section of the guidebook, Gregg decided he knew enough words in Vietnamese to hopefully convey to the owners that we wanted to leave the bags in the lobby with them until 3pm. We took the bags downstairs and we did manage that, without too much hassle which was a pleasant surprise.
We then headed off across the bridge into town to find some breakfast (brunch) from the
bakery we had found yesterday. On our walk across the bridge we spotted two people with white skin coming towards us, and on closer approach discovered that the female was the woman we had bumped into in a bar in Hanoi. With her was a really tall guy who had the air of a well travelled man about him. After swapping travel to Dong Hoi stories we were once again glad to have gone on the train, not the bus as she had. The guy had arrived by train but in a class lower than us. He claims to have basically sat in the freight carriage with the big cargo doors open, as “I don’t like air con you can’t see out the windows” I can understand the appeal of the breeze with the doors open but am not sure I could stick that for a long journey.
We explained our 4 * experience the day before and then parted ways to head for brunch. On arrival at the bakery it looked like we might be out of luck as the meat that was used to make the baguettes seemed to be running low. We selected another sort of pastry
containing something akin to a pizza topping in it, with a variety of herbs, tomatoes, egg and all sorts. Then we discovered they were happy to make us baguettes anyway so ordered a couple of those also and Lou couldn’t resist the lure of a two tone sponge cake. After buying our very bread orientated brunch, we wandered back to the riverbank to sit in the “park” there and eat it. We wiled away an hour or so, watching the world go by before deciding this wasn’t achieving much, so went for a wander further along the river. The first and only sight was the former church that was destroyed in the war, and the remains have been preserved (much akin to Charles church) under some sort of order that requires the Vietnamese local government to catalogue places that are classed as evidence of war atrocities. After this we walked about 1.5km and to be honest there was very little going on, it reminded me of many a Cornish seaside resort out-of-season, shut up or open but empty. Walking back to the main road, inland a bit, we then found a café and sat for a while with our books/guidebooks
whilst having a cold drink. (The guidebook hint that ice is generally manufactured and bought in and therefore safe was a brilliant piece of advice!)
By now it was getting to about 2pm and our thoughts started to turn to our travel arrangements for the day. We strolled back to the hostel, and sat in the lobby for a time until we decided we could wait at the station, so Gregg went and sat on the steps waiting to hail a passing Taxi, with a fall back plan of asking in shoddy Vietnamese. Luckily a taxi was forthcoming and so we loaded our stuff and ourselves into the cab and headed for the station.
This time our wait was less crowded, and being forwarned meant we were more aware of what to expect with the boarding system.
Safely onto the train and ensconced in our seats we settled down to read. Being only a 3.5 hour journey we weren’t planning on getting any food. Reading passed a good chunk of time, and people watching passed some more, but all in all a fairly uneventful journey (a pleasant thing in itself)
We arrived in Hue in the dark and after getting
off the platform which was rammed with stalls selling stuff, we got to the car park. Having booked a room that came with a free pick up the hassle form the local Taxi drivers was not what we really wanted and ignoring them isn’t that easy. Eventually Lou spotted a guy holding up a sign, and after losing him in the crowd briefly we found him again and sure enough had our name and our hotel name on it. He put us in a taxi and followed behind on his moped. We arrived at our destination, and when we got out we were greeted by a lady and another lad, as well as the guy on the moped. They took our bags and sheparded us down a back alley. In many circumstances this would have been disconcerting but having read that many of the hostels are down alleys off main roads it wasn’t a problem. After about 200yds we were shown into a modern building, and sat in reception being greeted by a variety of staff all with smiles. We were given ice cold water and sweets and left to chill for 5 mins until we decided to go to
Four of Nine Holy Cannons
These ones are for the four seasons.the room. The guys carried the bags up the stairs to the third floor, and we entered our room. Very nice it is too, decent air con, a mini bar that is as chep if not cheaper than the shops and a comfy bed. We showered and then headed out to the hotel group’s restaurant just around the corner where the prospect of a burger was too much for Lou, who had been after some western food for at least 24hrs. Our pleasant dinner gave way to our bed as we both were tired.
After a decent sleep (the best for a while) we awoke deciding to head into the city and check out the historic Citadel and Imperial City. We were pleasantly surprised when we also got a breakfast which we hadn’t realised came with the room. Onward into town and a nice browse around the Coop Mart, the only proper supermarket we have seen, which resulted in bumping into the English couple we had shared a boat with on Halong Bay. After a brief catch up and exchange of stories, we headed into the Citadel. Here we were instantly hassled by Cyclo drivers who were persistent despite
Five of Nine Holy Cannons
These ones represent the elements, metal, wood, water, earth and fire. our rebuttles, and when we got to the gates of the Imperial City where no vehicles are allowed it was a blessing. In we went and started to view the various different areas and buildings. Some original, some restored, some in ruins. Original here has a variety of meanings as being built in the early 19th century, many bits were pulled down and altered by Emperors throughout that century and into the 20th, and then there was the various wars which have further altered the landscape.
We stopped for a drink, which turned out to be 50, 000VND which is only about £1.75 but is very expensive here (we had though it was 15, 000) whilst observing the Elephant that was walking about giving people rides. We couldn’t decide if it was a happy elephant or not, but on the whole think it was. We decided paying either for a ride or to dress up in costumes to have pics etc was not really our thing and merely watched. More exploring and we ventured to different areas to see a variety of the ruins - whilst split up Lou’s delight at doing surveys led to our second rip-off of the
day. After doing her “survey” she told Gregg that it was quick and so he sat down and did the same thing, except it wasn’t and then we are being asked to donate money to the Red Cross. We did give something but if it gets to the Red Cross I’ll be more than a little surprised. We got a taxi back as we were both tired and the weather looked ominous. This turned out to be wise as now that I sit here in the early evening it is raining outside and I can hear the rumble of thunder. We are going to venture all of a few yards for dinner and a beer in a while and unless anything of note happens will sign off for now.
Well its the morning after the night before and needless to say I have a bit more to add, even if its only for our sake. Dinner didn't happen "a few yards away" as both of the cafes right by us don't serve food! Cafe means coffee not an eating place so we had to venture a few yards further onto the street we ate on yesterday. We opted for
the Hot Tuna Restaurant and Bar complete with the old surf brands logo's plastered everywhere. Copyright and trademark law are not the best enforced pieces of legislation! We ordered, as we seem to more and more here, two starters and nothing else as you never know if you'll need more or not. After sharing a plate of spring rolls, our second starter arrived, which was "rice pancakes with shrimps" but in reality was a slightly translucent gloopy substance spread ona banana leaf covered in an orangey, fishy, substance. I have to say it wasn't fantastic but was perfectly edible, and was well presented as you can see in the pics. Lou sampled the local red wine from Dalat (further down the country, we may get there later) whilst Gregg stuck to the local beer. Lou liked the wine but Gregg thought it was a bit like Port (interestingly Lou doesn't like Port but enjjoyed this and Gregg does like Port and wasn't so keen) We moved on down the road for a wander and came across Bar Why Not? Both agreeing, Why Not? we went in, or should that be sat down on the table on the pavement amongst other
Ornate dog statue
Nelly one tusk working behind. patrons. It started to rain a little so we moved to another table further under the canopy/shelter from the building. It got heavier so we shuffled backwards further under the canopy. The rain got stronger, so the table was again moved further in. Then the rain really got going so we moved table yet again, this time to one that was practically inside, and finally we were safe from the rain. The waitress in this bar was one of the strangest people we have yet come across - a really high pitched sqeaky laugh, which she used often even when things weren't funny, and a really odd sense of humour. She asked us where we came from, we replied with England and asked her if she was from Hue, her answer was, "I come from my mother" followed by yet more squeaky laughter. Accurate I suppose but strange nonetheless.
Strangely in Hue the nightlife ceases early yet all the bars we have been in advertise happy hours until about 10pm which is when we have seen things closing for the night!?! Something I don't really understand. Anyway having ordered a cocktail each to begin with and them being buy
3 get 1 free, it seemed rude not to have the free one so we had a second one each, and settled in to watch the world go by in the rain. It would seem that the thin plastic poncho/raincoat that you get at themeparks in the UK is the item to have here, as most locals were sporting one. Many having a special window in them so they can be draped over the front of your moped and not colour the headlight. Although there were enough that weren't bothered about the colour of the headlight to make me wonder why anybody came up with the idea.
Home for the night to our hotel, and after grabbing a few more cheap beers from the fridge in the lobby, we went up to our room, with Gregg intent on watching the football on the TV in the room. After searching through the 59 channels on the TV, the football was not present, something Gregg was not best pleased about considering the day before he could have watched any one of the 3pm Saterday kick-offs on the 9 or 10 various sport channels there seemed to be. That finished the night off,
One of a pair of urns
These are massive and weigh over 1600kg which just leaves me to report...
YYBerries = X
Toilets = Western
Dehli Belly = ? We may have a case we may not we will let you know.
Train beats bus still.
Currency still beating Countries.
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