Tour of Thailand

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Going out of my comfort zone, I was persuaded to go to Thailand on a count that I was bought a Sticky Toffee Pudding from Wetherspoons.

The best place to book if you're a student like myself is STA Travel. Although the travel agent didn't need to help me much- I just needed to book a flight t Bangkok- I overheard the girl next to me “I have 3 weeks, I want to go to Asia, my main country is India, but I want to see it all...”. I wanted to go to Bangkok as I had been invited by a friend on an internship there. I'd heard it was cheap and I had an apartement to stay in...so why wouldn't I go?!

As soon as I'd booked, I was being told it was a horrible place to go (the phrase 'too good to be true' came to mind). “Thai prisons...thieving...raping”. I'm not sure if anyone has seen the news, but I'm pretty sure all this happens in Britain anyway (except Thai prisons but you get my drift).



I could write a whole piece of the experience of what it was like on the plane getting to my first transfer stop, Mumbai. It wasn't like any flight I've been on before, with the purple and pink glows of light from the aisle seats, I felt like I was at a trendy bar instead of a long haul flight. Yet the colours were reminicent of a fading sunset, I felt instanty relaxed by the whole atmosphere. If it wasn't for the fact that it was a packed plane with people squashing past each other, I wouldv'e thought I was in Upper Class. When I went to the bathroom even, there was moisturiser, perfume, a full length mirror- I honestly didn't think I'd been on a nine hour flight and expect to turn up to Mumbai airport feeling fresh.



I wasn't there long, just enough time to look at the duty free and I was on my final leg to Bangkok...

I can only describe it as a surreal experience arriving at Bangkok airport. I felt like I was on set of a new Hollywood Blockbuster set fifty years into the future; like a robot would hand me my luggage off the conveyer belt. When I left the airport, hopped on an underground service and arrived in the city centre, the future themed movie set disappeared and I was stood feeling the humid temperatures in the pouring rain in a hoodie and jeans. All I could see around me was bright lights and shouting and the constant beeping of pink taxi cabs. It all made me feel a bit dizzy and along with the pollution, everything overwhelmed me. I'd come with a friend who I met in Mumbai and, having emailed instructions on where to meet, we found our friend waiting for us to hop in a cab, clearly fully absorbed in the Thai city way of life, walking to meet us in his (knock off) Havianas and a vest top and shorts.



I'd never heard of a Full Moon Party before- but as I was told it was a MUST. As I was only there for three weeks, there was one in two days time and if we didn't fly there, we'd miss it. Being from a small country like Britain, that was another thing I had to get used to...the vast size of Thailand meant I couldn't just hop on a train and be in a different place within a few hours. The Saturday night we arrived, we had to catch a plane to Surat Thani later that night, so instead of sleeping (I'd missed out on a night's sleep anyway so why not more?!) we went to a non-backpacker area of Bangkok full of bars- and to sound cliche- full of atmosphere. We had to take our backpacks in order to go straight to the airport again (I had unpacked, re-packed and showered at my friends apartement- the joys of having a friend live in the country you're travelling in!)



We boarded a small plane and headed off to Surat Thani, little did I know, we also had to take a one hour coach and a two hour ferry to get to Koh Phanghan, where this 'party' was being held.



A lifetime of no sleep later, we arrived at Koh Phanghan, the party island. Small winding roads, half a dozen locals stirring at us as though we were talking cats dressed in ballgowns and dust coming off our lift into town, was all that consumed this so-called party island. I say 'lift into town' in a vague sense. Basically a cardboard box- sorry truck- with several backpackers squashed in the open top back seat, surrounded by sweat and suitcases.



It was easy to get a room for a couple of nights and as soon as we got our key, I was straight in bed. Luckily exhaustion took over the fact we were in a shed with two beds, rotten blinds and a hole for a toilet.

Waking up feeling refreshed, we were ready to go to the Full Moon pre-party, it felt like returning to university; having a nap in the day to prepare for the night's 'antics'. Execpt, I thought I was in a more diverse, cultural country flying over to Thailand, but what met me for an idea of 'pre-lash' was exactly the same as what a pre-drink session would be in Zante, Iyia Napa- British accents, UV paint, the smell of hot GHDs and sweet perfumes filled the air.

I guess I would just enjoy the 'buckets' they have on sale- a mini bottle of vodka, Thailand's version of Red Bull (which is illegal in the UK) and party on the beach.

The next night was the highly anticipated Full Moon Party. Although they happen regularly, it had the same atmosphere as New Year's Eve; crowds filled the streets all leading to the same destination: the beach.

The small island was filled with bars with all different genres of music- the best part was you could walk along the the 'strip' with your toes dipped in the ocean, and go ashore when you heard a familiar beat and wanted to dance along, bucket in hand. No promoters or entry fees interfering. The air was so warm that people were jumping in the sea and returning to the sandy dancefloors. The heat from all the professional flame throwers added to the energy and excitement.

Common knowledge of backpackers travelling around Thailand is to have a hectic couple of party and alcohol infuelled days in Koh Phanghan, then have your ultimate hangover cure on a (literally) paradise island just an hour boat trip away in Koh Tao.

It was truly everything you would expect from paradise; the touch of the sand reminded me of powdered icing. It was so soft and smooth on the bottom of my feet- no stones or rubbish on the beach, it was a eutopia. And the ocean- a clear glistening turquoise blue that glittered in the welcoming sun.

Walling away hours with no worries on the decks of all the ocean front cafes, I spent my few days rest on a hammock or a beanbag, reading my novel and eating Pad Thai.

Walking along the beach, I stopped to see many 'pop-up' shops lining the beach advertising Thai Massages. It looked so relaxing seeing all the customers on the beds, with the breeze and calming sunset turning the sky a euphoric pink and purple- I couldn't resist. Unfortunately, I didn't see the board that said 'Thai Massage' or 'Oil Massage' so I just asked for a Thai massage and was adamant I had broken a bone or two! After realising it was an oil massage that everyone was getting, (must have been in an advice travel book to opt for an oil massge as I seemed to be the only one in obvious pain) I returned the following night just before the sunset to a relaxing (finally) oil massgae; the sounds of the sea breeze, the smell of strong perfumed oils and the ocean in front of me, twatching the the sun fall behind the sea and turning the sky mythical pastel colours, this massage was worth the wait.

After another flight, coach, boat (is that it?) back to Bangkok, again it was another weekend pitstop. This time instead of returning to the non-tourist area that reminded me of being on a family vacation with a square or courtyard that you'd find in European destinations such as Spain or Greece, we headed to backpacker central- Kohsan Road.

This again felt like a more cultured version of Malia or Zante, the clammy packed street filled with Westerners (I learnt to use this term a lot while in Asia, even though it sounds like a term for a segregated group of people). The street was bustling with tourists outside every bar, drinking and alfresco dining.

The street was illuminated with lights to Irish and English bars that resembled the 'Vacancy' signs you would see typical in an American horror movie symbolising a motel.

The smells of Pad Thai on street venders filled the air and made the street more claustrophobic but atmospheric (not to mention the locals hounding you with leaflets and cardboard signs to 'See Ping Pong Show' and 'braid hair all fancy'.

Our last stop before heading home was Chaing Mai. All I knew about this place was I could potentially ride an elephant- looking at my bedroom back home in England, you wouldn't need twenty seconds to know that my favourite animal was an elephant.

The journey to Chaing Mai was quite scary- it was a 12 hour train ride. The station in Bangkok was big and looked like anything you'd see out a European city's main transport link. However, the train that pulled up had an ominous presence. It roared into the station with its profoundness resembling the Hogwarts Express- but it looked like it was one thousand years older and hadn't been cleaned in- well, one thousand years.

Luckily, there were bunk beds throughout the aisles covered by curtains so the 12 hours would go fast. But I still had a feeling pricking up in the back of my mind that I was in a submarine prison. It sounds an unusual description but I felt the claustrophobia eating inside me and a genuine fear that I would be murdered in my sleep on this train journey...*dibs on top bunk*

However, we arrived safely to the quaint town of Chaing Mai. With a river in the middle of the small town, a road either side, and shops on the outer layer, I felt like I was visiting an old worlde tourist spot in the Cotswolds.

I clocked a Starbucks on the corner of the street and made a mental note of it. Down what we thought was a little alleyway, we were greeted by an authentic Thai market selling everything from fresh produce to hair clips. We found a hostel down this route, full of American, Canadian and British backpackers. The friendly staff gave us homemade printed out guides at which package to choose. I knew that why it was a hot tourist spot. The packages included- completely value for money- itineraries ideal for backpackers wanted to fit everything in in a short period of time.

We chose a package that included a visit to an orchid and butterfly farm, ride a bamboo raft, go on a one day jungle trek, ride an elephant and zip wire through the jungle, all for £14. And this included lunch too! Not forgetting to mention transport to all spots was included- a minibus arrived at our hostel with an English speaking tour guide and each activity that we took part in, we were accompanied by professionals guiding us through; teacher for the zip wire; men at the back and front of the bamboo raft guiding the raft (and we were supplied with life jackets); teenage boys on the backs of the elepahants so the elephants would go the correct path and a tour guide showing us all the insects and plants that lived in the jungle.

To get to ride the elephants, you had to cross an unstable bridge. I was getting used to all 'weak', 'unstable' 'weary' stigmas that was attached to Thailand. It was about having no fear and going on an adventure of a lifetime- so I went with it.

The elephant was ridden by a young boy with his iPod in; having complete control of this enormous, immense creature he sat on. We went through muddy hills and lakes and everytime I looked down, I felt like I was at the top of a rollercoaster, preparing for the big drop. For some reason I had complete trust in the teenage boy, I felt very secure and even when we stopped to feed the elephant bananas and the boy got off to talk to his friend, he acted as though he was working in an office, like he was just doing his typical 9-5 job, no big deal. A bit different from me- taking a photo of every angle feeding the elephant a banana and any opportunity I got to have a small portion of it's trunk fitting in the camera lense and my face.

We also went to a Thai cooking course as it was recommended to us. We got to pick out the vegetables at the market we first passed- but we chose a 'lucky day' as it was a Farmer's Market. From feeling , smelling and pre-tasting the vegetables, we were made to feel like we were trainee chefs as well as having great fun going through all stages of preparing our own traditional Thai dishes.

Our trainer chef spoke excellent English and was studying at the local university. She longed to travel to Europe and North America and said she got excited when Western backpackers and she would ask inquisitive questions about their culture and lifestyle. Once we chose, completed and ate all our dishes, we received make-shift cookbooks and certificates to take back home with us...no doubt to brag that it was offical we could make the best and most authentic Thai green curry.

During the stay at Chaing Mai, we visited the zoo, which at first seemed like an average zoo or theme park, yet we came across two gigantic hippos in one of the man made lakes and were able to get up close to them. There was a stand next to the lake which had bananas hanging from it with a price at which to purchase the bananas and feed the hippos yourself. With no zookeeper around, we fed the bananas to the hippos, being careful not to touch them what with no one around. It felt odd and eerie that no one was around, like there was a tumble weed missing in the scene it was that deserted, but then again, I reminded myself where I was. It made me appreciate the culture difference and almost laid back atitude of the place- feeding rhinos without paying would be something you definitely wouldn't get in London Zoo, unless you were the only human around- like what we felt there and then- filming for I Am Legend (I've only seen bits but all I can remember is one man and his dog in the whole city- again pretty odd and eerie).

The occasional time, I nipped across to Starbucks to chill out in the cool air conditioned coffee shop and sit on the snug, homey leather couch with my caffe latte and novel, listening to the amiable, mellow jazz music and soft smells of vanilla and cinammon. I promised myself I would fully immerse myself in the Thia culture, but the occasional, harmless Starbucks brought a warm feeling of home and it felt very nostalgic. When I go to a Thai restaurant back in the UK now and get myself a Thai curry or Pad Thai, I get that nostalgic feeling of a trip of a lifetime.

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Photos

Clockwise from top left:
Thai temples in Bangkok; Hippo at Chaing Mai Zoo; Khao San Road in Bangkok; Jungle trek; Elephant riding in Chaing Mai