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Published: February 6th 2006
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Boat on Ko Muuk
This captures the serenity of Ko Muuk. What a wonderful place!!! Yes its true, we have found paradise!!!
Since our last entry, which we admit was quite some time ago, we have traveled up to the Andaman coast in Thailand to end up in noisy and rather disgusting Phuket where we are now. Apologies for any Phuket lovers out there, but we just can't get used to seeing this Western funfair on the beach, which seems totally overcrowded by fat old Western man having their arm around a young Thai girl. YAK!
Anyway, no need to get carried away... especially after all the unbelievably gorgeous places we have seen while travelling up here...
First stop after a quick visit back to Langkawi was Ko Tarutao, a Thai national marine park right at the border with Malaysia. There is no development on this island apart from a national park headquarters and a number of sturdy bungalows where you can stay. The serenity of this place was unbelievable - hardly any people around, a beautiful stretch of unspoiled beach and lush jungle all around. We saw monkeys, big monitor lizards (these things are huge!) and hornbill birds and really felt like we were away from it all. It is kind of
Scootering around Ko Lanta
We hired mopeds to see the island strange how quick you do get used to things though - the first time we saw wild monkeys we took the camera out, stood with our mouths wide open and kept elbowing each other saying O My God, OMG, OMG. After a couple of days, when the little primates were running around our hut at 6am having monkey drama's with each other, we were cursing the little buggers like nothing else...'bloody monkeys, why don't they just piss off in a tree on the other side of the island instead of waking us up??!!'.
Next stop after Ko Tarutao was Ko Lipe, which is a tiny banana-shaped island further West from Tarutao. Our travel guide kind of discouraged going to Ko Lipe as there is a concern for over development on this island, but we have spoken to quite a few locals there who were shocked when we discussed this with them and explained that tourism is more or less the only stable income for a lot of families on the island. Apart from that the island does not allow for extensive development and really has a very laid back traveler island vibe. Don't go there is you want to
Ko Lanta kid
This is one of the cutest kids we saw. She is a sea gypsy from one of the poorest areas on Ko Lanta. spent your holiday partying, but if you enjoy a more relaxed type of holiday we can definitely recommend it.
The locals on Ko Lipe were a very interesting group of people - they are so-called sea gypsies who used to live a nomadic life around the tiny islands that dot the South Andaman coast. You could tell they are from a different genetic pool than the Thai's that live further up South - very weathered faces and particularly cute kids who almost seem more at easy in the water than outside of it. We had some of the best dinners here too - every evening the locals place tables and chairs right on the beach and throw a beach bbq with the fish they have caught during the day. It is a real community event with all the man managing the bbq (what is it with man and standing around bbq's??) and the woman looking after the kids. You go up to the guys, select a fish which they then clean and cook and voila! dinner is served.
There is also excellent snorkeling on Ko Lipe. You just rent a mask and fins and get into the water
Hornbill Bird on Ko Taratao
Can't believe what we saw!!! from the beach. Within 10 meters or so you are right above the coral and reef fish, including lots of the now famous "Nemo" clown fish. It was in these waters that we started to think about trying out diving (but more on that later...).
After Ko Lipe we went to Ko Lanta, which a much bigger island further up North the Andaman Coast. We enjoyed Ko Lanta for what it was (Scandinavia on the beach - we are sure there are no Swedes left in Sweden as they must all be on Ko Lanta), but would not have stayed there as long as we did if Maarty had not gotten sick from a stomach ulcer - somewhere along the way some contaminated food or drink got into her system and as a result she was pretty much doubled over in pain for the week to come. If anybody is after a totally radical way of losing weight, a stomach ulcer is definitely the go as you can't eat or drink anything without being in a lot of pain. Anyways, after a week or so it was all ok again and it did force us to stay put in
Ko Lipe Kids
The white stuff on the face means that they are clean. People of all ages are seen with it on their bodies which they put on after showering. This is taken at the local school. one place for a bit which was not a bad thing.
The nicest things we did in Ko Lanta was a Thai cooking class - it pretty much took up an entire afternoon in which we cooked several very yummy Thai dishes. As you can imagine, Thel was quite in her element!!! We met some really nice people in this class too - there were two Dutch guys, an English guy and us and our Thai teacher 'Sugar' was just lovely. All in all an afternoon well spent!
From Ko Lanta we took a ferry to Ko Mook which is a small island on (you guessed it) the Andaman coast. This place was lovely - again very quiet with a beautiful white powdery beach and the clearest water we have ever seen. We only planned to stay 3 nights here, but ended up staying a week and we decided to take our PADI open water certificate - how butch are we?? We had to learn all sorts of underwater skills and were taken out for five dives and just loved it!! Claire, you were right - do it once and you are hooked! So apart from being smart,
fun at the Wharf
These are kids from Ko Muuk - showing us how they jump from the wharf. gorgeous and super special, we are now also certified open water divers!! Surely it really does not get better than this?!
Because we liked the diving so much, we decided to go to Phuket and try and organise a liveaboard diving trip. We are leaving tomorrow and will spent two nights/three days on a boat around the Similan islands (which is supposed to be one of the best dive sites in the world) and will go for 11 dives, including 2 night dives (which is freaking us out a bit but alas). If you are lucky, you get to see big manta rays, turtles and the coolest of them all: whalesharks.
Once we return from this trip, we are planning to catch a plane to Bangkok (our Thai visa is running out) and then a plane into Laos where we hope to spent a couple of weeks.
Hope all is well with everybody.
Lots of love,
Thel & Maarty
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Mayke
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Hee Marrt en Felicity! Wat een geweldig verhaal, Maart, wat zie je er onweerstaanbaar uit met die brommer tussen je lange benen....RRRRRRRRRRR!!! Helemaal geweldig, girls! Hier echt helemaal net zoals bij jullie, vies weer en stress, blijf nog maar even weg!! Hele dikke kus, Mayke