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Published: October 31st 2005
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Stormy times in Krabi
We were glad to find shelter under a ledge with our kayak. Paddling Maya Do you know Maya? Most likely you do. After all she is "the Beach". She is a celebrity, a star of the Andaman sea since 1999 when Leonardo and his friends filmed a Hollywood movie here. Hence she is famous and hence she receives 100 motorboats per day or more. Poor Maya Bay.
Special situations require special action, so we thought. Thus, we rented a kayak, packed some take-away Padthai and plenty of water and paddled off early in the morning. And we made it. First tourist of the day! Just Maya and us. Although the weather was not perfect we were happy.
It takes about one and a half hours from Phi Phi Don to Maya Bay depending on your paddling abilities, the wind and the waves. If you feel energetic or adventurous or just can't be bothered to join one of the tour boats we deffinitely recommend this trip. But check the wheather conditions carefully. I am not saying it is dangerous but it is not a bathtub-trip either. Be sure that you can paddle for an hour non-stop. Furthermore, we have been told that there is a strong current between the two islands although we
didn't feel much of it. So plan ahead and be sensible.
If you decide to go you might want to be there before nine o' clock (when the first tour boats arrive) but definitely before ten (when we counted about 30 boats in the bay). This was the sign for us to leave. We continued our trip around Phi Phi Lei (alternatively you could head back the same way you came) and manouvered around the South-side (which was a bit rough) and to the lagoon which we thought equally breathtaking as Maya. There is a small beach at the entrance which made a nice lunch stop before we headed back passing Viking cave. After a hard day you truly deserve to relax, for example in the treehouse where you can throw another glance at Phi Phi Lei before the sun sets and you slowly sink lower on your axe-cushion.
Paradise? If I was to write the introduction for the newest edition of the Lonelyplanet Thailand Island and Beaches my general description would read something like this: Half of the place is a construction site and the other half a garbage dump. The rest is as close to paradise
as it can get. Of course, this is cynical and needs some explanation. There are really some very nice spots in the area which - if you can fade out the construction noise and overlook the litter under the coconut trees - are amazing and perfect for your well deserved beach holiday. It is also to say that my statement here is based only on a couple of places like Krabi, Ko Phi Phi, Ko Tao and can thus not be general. However, as these beaches draw about 50 per cent of the backpackers it might concern quite a few. There seems to be a never ending need for renovation and demand for more bungalows on these beaches. And this cannot only be explained by the tsunami destruction of last year as places on the East coast (e.g. Ko Tao) are equally affected. It is possible that the construction boom is a low season phenomenon only and by next Christmas everything will be shining and new. However, even when the chain saws and borers fall silent the garbage remains. And this compared to the constructing is inexcusable. It spoils the view and contaminates the ground. It wouldn't take much effort
Wat Po, Bangkok
This guy is more than 40 meters long! to keep the islands clean so this is really what I am going to write to the king of Thailand in my next letter. Unfortunately, it isn't as simple as that and people have always been lazy in cleaning up after themselves. So take a pair of earplugs and a garbage bag (to set a good example) and head for the golden sand and the turquoise water. It is not that bad after all.
Anglo-Asian for beginners If you are greeted with the words "hello taxi", don't fall into an identity crisis. The friendly driver just wants to give you a ride. The situation gets more delicate when the hawker around the corner puts it more direct "You, pineapple!" But unless you have tied up your dread locks in the middle of your head it is likely that he just wants to sell you some tropical fruit. At least she hasn't called you a banana or even a coconut.
However, if you fancy a refreshment the good thing is you don't have to worry about prices because it is "same same" all over Thailand as the woman will assure you. Just don't be surprised if you find a
cheaper pineapple two blocks down. If this makes you go crazy, relax, it might be better if "you go Krabi", as any self made tour guide on the street will suggest. After all there are some nice beaches there.
Find more stories and pictures on our
Lovelyplanet-Homepage.
Planet Portrait
- Top 3:
Krabi's islands and beaches
Khao Yai NP
Ayutthaya by night
- That was bad: Dogs are everywhere and they do bite (Brigittes leg was the target). As some of them carry rabies we decided to get vaccination. The service in the hospital on the other hand was excellent.
- Money Saver Tip: Get your drinking water from small shops. A six-pack goes for 20 Baht (compared to up to 10 Baht for a single bottle)
- Recommended guest house: Honey Inn, Nang Rong, Isaan Province: Friendly service, good value breakfast and delicious home cooked dinner
- Visa: One of the easiest. You get 30 days for free at any border.
- We paid for a meal: 15-100 Baht
Planet Pictures
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Nepe
non-member comment
just great
We admired already your German reports and are now also fascinated by your stories in Englisch. Your photographs are impressive and open a completely new world to us. We are looking forward to many more pictures and stories. Have a great New Year. Nepe