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Published: August 7th 2007
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Top of the park
It's a short climb to the top of Khao Krachom and the views are lovely. Sam Riot Yot lies about 40 km south of Hua Hin which is about 180 km south of Bangkok on the popular route 4 to pretty much anywhere in the Southern Gulf or Anderman Coast of Thailand. Having spent several weeks doing some hard core diving and full moon partying; this national park area seemed like an ideal place to get away from civilisation.
Coming from Koh Tao it was easier to organise a tourist bus to Bangkok and get dropped off at Pranburi on the way but it should be perfectly possible to get local buses here, it just takes more time and a little initiative. In Pranburi we sought out the sawngthaews (near the main cross roads and market) to Bang Pu, the small village inside the park and from here it's a short walk/climb over to the beach of Hat Laem Sala. Presumably this is a popular spot for local Thai people during holidays or weekends but we found the place completely deserted. Bargaining for this trip was essential because they see few foreign tourists and with nobody about to share with it was easy for drivers to overcharge farang (the Thai word for foreigner) or to
White sandy beach
Pine forest meets sandy beach on lagoon blue waters. give the impression there is no regular transport. We were told there was just one shared Sawngthaew running per day that goes relatively early; and as we discovered it would have been best to turn up first thing or better still to find out the times in advance.
The women driving the Sawngthaew, like many Thai I've met, have enough English to negotiate prices but not a lot more than that. She had the characteristic of being a heartless wolf whilst negotiating money for the trip and then transforming into a lovable grandmother for the remainder of the trip. One couldn't help admire the efficiency of her technique as she had us helping her load up the back of the sawengthaew with firewood and other delivery goods that were needed on board before we could get going. She rewarded our efforts with deep fried bananas and fresh coconut from the trees around her home however; a convenient half way stop off point. She really was quite a nice if devious lady once we agreed on a deal!
The effort needed to get here was well worth the trouble as we arrived to be greeted by white sandy beaches,
Pine Forest
This is the camping area and there are log cabins nearby too. lush blue waters and not a single tourist in sight. Wooded pine tree forests meet with the coast line flanked by limestone hills complete with walks and caves to explore.
Tham Phyraya Nakhon is right next to the beach and contains two large sink holes that allow light to filter in and the vegetation to grow inside the cave. There we found a royal saalaa (shelter) built for Rama V who used to visit here eons ago.
Tham Sai further south and also on the coastline is less impressive but worth a visit and has some nice limestone 'waterfalls' formed by water over the centuries. Also further south is Khao Krachom, which is a 605m climb up a limestone hill for some great views of the coastline and surrounding countryside.
Accommodation comes in the form of bungalows for larger groups or good old camping on the cheap in rented tents for penniless backpackers like us. Happily I didn't seem to attract too many bugs.
The beach and shallow blue water coupled with the basic necessities such as toilet and eating facilities and yet no other souls to share it with made for a perfectly splendid backpacker's
Kate sets up tent
Actually there were two guys who set up tents for lazy tourists like us. retreat. I would have liked to spend more than just one day in this largely undiscovered paradise. But the highlight of this short stop off to Bangkok came when I decided it would be nice to go for a night swim and discovered the shallow waters full of phosphorescence such that glowing waves broke on the beach and my arms and legs lit up like a Christmas tree as I swam through the water. I could shower myself in glow and shoot balls of light through the water like something out of Street Fighter that classic video game. This magical swim was topped off with a clear sky and shooting stars as I stared up at heavens above laid out on the beach with nothing but the sound of crashing waves.
Seeing as nobody has blogged about Sam Roi Yot here on Travelblog I thought I'd be the first to report on this easily accessible beautiful coastline unnoticed by literally millions of travellers each year - packed into double decker air conditioned coaches rushing around to places like Koh Samui, Pee Pee, Krabi and Phuket.
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Sy
non-member comment
Arrrrrr
Steve ... i have now decided i hate you even more then the last time you posted up a blog ..... The places you are going are amazing and basicly I am JELOUS ! Best Sell my car and join you ... next year if you are still out and about ! Sy