Arriving in Ton Sai

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I arrived on East Railay beach soaking wet, plus I had a muddy backside, from yet again having to jump out of the longtail boat into the sea, in order to walk to shore. Damn it! This is getting to be a habit. The muddy arse however was due to my falling upon the same when I fell on the slippery walkway. Great! Not a good start and unfortunately worse was to come before it was to get better.

My situation worsened still when I was unable to find a decent place to stay, kind people to talk to and somebody who could tell me where the hell Ton Sai was because after that reception only the devil himself would be able to keep me in Railay.

The people on the boat were not typically friendly, the tourists in Railay that I talked to were indifferent and the staff were rude and unhelpful. I met one guy who didn't even know how much he was paying for his room and the guy who worked at the first resort I walked into insisted on showing me only the rooms on the top floor which was not easy to climb with a huge backpack and bags in every hand.

Then there were the tourists who didn't even know where Ton Sai was nor the staff at the hotels. By this time dusk had fallen, I was sweating like a pig on heat and my back was breaking!! Thankfully, I met ONE informed person who pointed me in the direction of the tourist information office. By the grace of their knowledge I landed in Ton Sai after walking to West Railay first, which is only a short distance, from where I chartered a boat. Damn the price, I thought just get me out of here.

So there I was pulling into shore. Apart from the boatmen the beach was empty and the first person I saw was a boatman with crabs in one hand and shells in the other with a face that told me this is the place I want to be. He was so chilled out it placated me instantly and at once I was relaxed. At that moment I knew I had come to the right place.

The worst thing about travelling is the arriving. It can often be a struggle. No, correct that. It is always hard to find out where one should go. The guidebook isn't always reliable and as soon as you set foot off the bus you are instantly set upon by over eager touts keen to sell you their guesthouse. But, in Ton Sai it is the simplest thing. You walk up the beach onto the mud road and there lo and behold are a plethora of delightfully simple resorts. Once I saw Mountain View Resort I was sold.

Cute white and green bungalows (with huge comfy beds) with charming staff and only 250 Thai Baht per night.

I stayed in Ton Sai for 20 days and if you could see it you would too.

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Photos

the mud walk up from the beach
(on a dry day)