Paradise - Koh Nang Yuan

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We found ourselves leaving Bangkok very early on Monday, Nov. 21st and feeling pretty ill - overwhelmed by the pollution we inhaled on our tuk-tuk ride. We needed a break from city life so we headed South to the islands. We knew we were heading in the right direction for relief, but neither of us could have imagined just how far we were going from the busy city. Secluded paradise awaits!

We took an hour flight to Koh Samui on Bangkok Airways - the Southwest Airlines of Thailand. Koh Samui is one of the larger and more popular island resort destinations in Southern Thailand. We had decided in advance to skip the busier resorts and head straight for the smaller island resort of Koh Nang Yuan which was recommended to us by Evelyn in HK.

After a two hour delay we took off on the Lomprayah island ferry to our remote resort. The seas were very high that day and every passenger was given sea sickness pills and a 'barf-bag'. The swells on the open water were considerable. A journey that typically takes an hour and a half took over three. Needless to say there were some sick passengers(not us!!) on this trip, but that may have been due to the screening of the movie 'Be Cool'. Enough!

After switching boats in Koh Tao, and taking another twenty minute boat ride, we finally arrived on the island grouping of Koh Nang Yuan - Three small islands uniquley connected by sand beaches. From this moment we fell in love with the serene beauty and lovely staff of the island. We would ultimately push back our departure day four times because of our desire to stay just a littlle bit longer.

The Island of Nang Yuan is leased by Thailand's Ministry of the Interior to a small group of private individuals who operate the resort. They keep the island very well maintained. The resort showcases a snorkel/dive center with nice bungalows and an emphasis on peace and quiet. It does not have a raging disco nor an abundance of rooms to attract the majority of tourists from the larger islands. We loved the place for what it was- a secluded paradise!

We were given a bungalow on the center island which housed the restaurant and all of the operations of the resort: beach bar; dive center; massage parlour; and DVD rentals. Yes, DVD rentals. Although there was no TV in the rooms, there was a monitor and a DVD player - and all guests were allowed to rent two movies a day for free. All of our expenses were charged to said room so the staff quickly got to know us by that number; #D1.

Our room was very quaint, with: a queen bed; TV/DVD player; a mini-fridge; and A/C. We were given a giant towel for a blanket which was just fine because it never got cold in that room, even with the A/C. The generators on the island were turned off during the day so the room only had electricity from 4pm to 10am.

Our bathroom adjoined the room and offered some surprises for us city folk. The shower only had cold water and, like the electricity, the water was only on in the morning and evening. These limitations were no problem at all because we never were in the room in the day anyways - and why would we be?

Can't forget the toilet. At first, we both kept looking for the flush lever but could not find it. Two college grads couldn't figure out that we had to flush it by hand with a pail of water filled in the large basin next to the commode. Very interesting! But not as dirty as it sounds.

We love the room - save for the few bothersome mosquitoes that pestered us. Even then, that just gave Holden something to do - patrolling the room with a self-fashioned swatter to smote the enemy bugs.

Settled in, we began to establish our routine of R&R that would last us a great couple of weeks.

Every day we would wake up around 9:30 and go reserve two beach chairs before the crowds of daily snorkelers and divers arrived for the day. Then we would go and enjoy breakfast that offered both Western and Thai delights. In general, everything the restaurant served us was very good, and inexpensive.

After breakfast we would feed a mass of fish swimming near the dock with stale bread leftover for that very purpose. These fish had certainly become dependant, or at least used to such human gifts. Hundreds and hundreds of fish, big and small, would fight for any morsel tossed their way. It made for quite a spectacle.

Afterwards we would adjourn to our little beach and enjoy the day reading, swimming, snorkeling, and just messing around on the shoreline. It became very interesting to watch the tides change hour after hour, and day after day. Some days, when the seas were high, the tide would surge up to the base of our chez lounges, and others the water wouldn't even come close.

Everyday we had to share the resort beaches with the throngs of visiting divers and snorkelers. These tours brought a lot of people to Nang Yuan to share in the beauty of the Islands. Most were either Korean or German, but there were some Brits and Russians as well. Never can keep a good thing all to yourself.

When we got thirsty we headed to the beach bar to enjoy some Singha Beer, fresh pineapple juice, or a pina colada - yummy! While enjoying ourseleves at the bar we became well acduainted with the soundtrack of Nang Yuan. Along with all of the catchy Thai pop songs, we were overwhelmed with the sounds of the sixties and seventies, including: The Eagles; The Carpenters; Simon & Garfunkel; John Denver; and many of the most obscure songs which neither of us could identify. We may never be able to get these songs out of our heads.

While there one day we befriended two nice South African doctors, Carl and Andy. They were on a two week holiday and we got know know them over a week. They had many good stories about South Africa and their medical experiences while living in Capetown. They were big fans of the Thai massages and they convinced us to get an oil massage one night - It was worth it!

Later, Carl and Andy would introduce us to two other guests who were from Germany, 'Yence and Ullricher'(forgive the spellings). 'Yence' had an amazing story about falling off the train from Bangkok to the South, while relieving himself over the side of the train!! On one of our last nights we all shared a great long dinner, including conversation and drinks. 'Yence', who is an 'IT' guy, ended up fixing the interent on the island and saving us a trip to Koh Tao to plan our trip to Cambodia - Thanks!

As mentioned, Nang Yuan is made up of three islands which are connected by sand bars. In high tides, these paths were totally submerged by the sea water splashing over them; up to three feet deep. Also, the paths would move with changes in the tide and current of the sea. It was very fun to watch the visitors and guests that lodged in the other island getting soaked while wading across the water to reach the restaurant and dive center on the main island.

Another attraction of Nang Yuan is the rocky lookout atop the South Island. A ten minute hike up the wooden stairs and over the large rocks brought you to a magnificent view of the other two islands. Certainly a postcard picture moment.

When it came time to eat we would find ourselves trying all the different Thai dishes offered there: from spicy glass noodles to curries of all sorts, and we can't forget the wonderful fresh fish and prawns. It was all very good.

Our routine was only modified when the monsoons came. We were told that the season had arrived just a little late this year - it usualy occured in October. Oh well, a little rain must fall....
Carl and Andy had actually been stuck in Koh Samui during one of the early storms of our stay, and told us the whole island had suffered very bad flooding. Nang Yuan was too small to suffer such a fate, but we were relegated to the lobby/restaurant area to wait out the storms for a couple of days. We experienced two separate monsoon systems and each lasted for a solid two days.

During these rainy days, we polished up on our gin rummy skills - playing about twenty hands a day. We also did plenty of reading. Julia was busy plying through the thick Clinton Autobiography, while Holden finished his Wittgenstein book and also read Catch-22 and some Vonnegut.

We also got to know the staff a little better. Many spoke English well enough to get by in conversation; especially the manager 'Noy' and our primary server 'Jaen'. Everyone was so nice and receptive to us. They really couldn't have been more welcoming and helpful.

During the afternoons, when the staff got their hour break between 5 and 6pm, we would enjoy them playing their favorite game. Don't know the name, but it is a cross between volleyball and soccer. The two sides would volley the wicker ball back and forth using only their heads and feet.

After a marvelous two week stay it finally came time to leave. We had enjoyed ourselves so much there, including our first international Thanksgiving. No doubt, we would recommend Nang Yuan to anybody and everybody. Nevertheless, it was time to go.

So, on the King's Birthday, 12/05, we boarded the Lomprayah ferry once more - this time to Chumphorn to catch a bus that would take us 10 hours to the North, and into Bangkok once again. There we would catch a flight to Siem Reap, Cambodia the next day.

Oh well, every good time must come to an end. So long, Koh Nang Yuan!

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