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Touching down on Bangkok tarmac once again seemed very different to intrepid solo journey I made 7 years ago. For this trip being my fifth to Thailand islands and is now well rehearsed... even still i was a little anxious to make my connecting flight to Samui and from there a little disappointed not to find no means of transport for my final leg to koh p and the Sanctuary. The first night I settled for the cheapest room in Samui I could find but Samui is no longer cheap and upon realising what the room was like I decided my holiday would start tomorrow.
Eager to complete my journey I was up early and found a speed boat service to a Koh Pang pier a short pickup truck ride to had rin feeling my journey was almost complete I walked on to the beach to find not a long tail in sight.... To put this into context there are normally at least 30 moored up and at least a couple of drivers looking for passengers even at 8am. A walk around the town and i heard a boat would be coming at 10am. Waiting on the beach it dawned
sanctuary crew
same same but differenton me that the surf although not large from the perspective of someone residing in Sydney was perhaps slightly rough by Thai standards. Seeing the boat make its way in this was certainly raised the suspicion that these weren’t normal conditions and the soaking wet passengers then confirmed this further. My mind was set though... being in had rinn just a couple of hours had left a bad taste in my mouth and i was egar to get to my final destination.
I won’t go into details of the boat trip but the boat man told us he was going to drop us off at the beach next to had tien as it was too dangerous to go. When a Thai boat driver tell you it’s too dangerous to get beach it would probably be boarding kamikaze
Arriving at the Sanctuary it does now feel like a home away from home. I got to pick my bungalow have a shower and then placed myself in hammock of choice. 4pm called and I tried my first yoga class of the day. The night had some mixed feelings as I learnt brother Keys had gone in for back operation and would most
probably not be joining us on the holiday let alone tonight - I also mailed the London boys to let them know it was far from ideal weather conditions.
There I was in the Sanctuary unexpectedly solo, slightly disappointed but still keen to have a good time - dinner and a couple of very poor conversations with some randoms I started to wonder if the Sanctuary had lost its ability to draw the most colourful of guests. The next day however normal service was resumed with the catalyst of a family meal (where 10 or so people just sit round and enjoys a Sanctuary Feast) To say ‘normal service’ actually does ring true as every time I have stayed at the Sanctuary I have met reincarnations of the same people.... Stressed out highflyer played by Ari , a finish guy who left his businesses to find himself. Very young Meditator played by Max, a 20yo French Canadian online poker player who seemed to have grown old very quickly. A 50+ intrepid traveller played by Hal who told some quite amazing stories of travelling in the 70’s & 80’s. Down to earth Aussie, played by Sarah, a fellow Sydneyite. A
cool Canadian guy played by Mike , a guy who had possibly an even better ipod than my own. An obnoxious American played by Kevin , created such a scene one night people actually left the bar.
So that plus a couple of others was my group and for four days we saw each other at the beach, took yoga classes and conversed about things that only one can do while on holiday in paradise. The routine of morning yoga, fresh fruit breakfast, book hammock combination went so fast it really crept up on me the Paul and Biesty would be arriving in Thailand that night. It didn’t seem right but I knew they would have the same trouble getting to island as I had and I just wasn’t prepared to say goodbye the Sanctuary and hello to Hadd rinn just yet... one more night to prepare myself.
Much ‘ice break’ conversation on my stay had centred around the journey and as it turns out there is now a ‘fair weather track’ which leads to the beach. It is one of many things that is and will change my paradise as I believe the absence of a road
to be self selector in terms of guests. However in this instance with the seas still looking a little rough the option of a 4x4 ride to Hadd Rinn was very appealing.
Introducing Myster Jon and Myster Frank
As soon as I left the beach I found a connection to the world once more with several beeps from my phone showing me text messages from the previous night. The boys had indeed made it to the Island and where staying at the Coco huts. Finding Pauls bungalow first he seemed a change man and very keen on Thailand thus far. On to meet a rather worse for wear monseir biesty. It seemed I had missed out on a good night after all. Settling down by the pool the holiday vernacular began to take shape and excitement about having a few beers together.... which actually turned out to be a bottle of bubbly courtesy of Paul and his foresight. The last time I had seen my good friend was at his wedding and along with his champagne he’d brought a dvd of the whole event. With the sea a stones throw away we relaxed back on our triangle cushions
sipped the champers and had a good old laugh at the speeches - My recollection of my own is a little sketchy so I was glad to find that, while I won’t nominated for comedian of the year I can certainly hold my head up high.
The first night was always going to be a far from tame affair. It started with a feast fit for a king or three washed down with some tacky cocktails (a theme that would stay constant through the trip). There’d been some advertising of a pool party in town which we thought we’d check out... it was very young and very English.... a fight broke out - Thailand has changed much over the years and there is no legislation for Idiots. Thankfully we have changed too and air with tension is not what we choose to breathe...
Cheeky dances and few laps of rowing.... seeing old friends is something special but there is nothing like just getting hammered together.
Drinking scares hidden under sunglasses the next day the prospect of the half moon party awaited us that night. Another feast at night followed by some drinks at Japanese restaurant which has possibly the most
Pimping it
David Brent style stylish bar in town. Last time I’d really enjoyed the half moon party but this time somehow it just didn’t happen for me.
The next day we were up and off to Koh Tao an island i haven’t been too since my first trip..... and the turtle island was quite simply unrecognisable. We’d planned to arrive the day after but we’d all had enough of had rinn. We found a room for the night in and had a wander round the town. They always say that it’s the unexpected nights that turn out the best - tonight was one of those. Picking a restaurant whose tables will literally semi submersed by the tide in a couple of hours we ordered 3 fish kebabs 1 chciken kebab, 3 tiger prawns and lobster... a feast by any kings measure but you could excuse us from thinking we’d bitten off more than we chew when the food was delivered with 6 baked potatoes and 6 salads. Walking along the beach Koh Tao has certainly developed but unlike its neighbour its remoteness has left it with charm. Bar the Irish pub most of the bars are set right on the beach were seating
literally has to be readjusted through the night as the moon draws in the sea.
We’d heard of the Lotus bar from fellow travellers but walking past Fizz bar we found an instant accord. We sat down scanned the drinks menu and decided on a bottle of rose. By chance we’d arrived for their weekly soul and funk night and as the vibes pumped the vine flowed and the vernacular peaked. Biesty had already self proclaimed himself Myster Jon. We’d decided that Pauls inability to have a just a quiet night made him Myster Frank (thai tonal accent intended). Lying back on cool cushions and bean bags the conversation got funnier and funnier. Till before you knew it we were up dancing to Stevie Wonder and the crew and yes a little bit of rowing in the surf (check the vids). The bar shut down at two but speaking with other there was another bar down the beach so off we went passing by the 7-11 to pick up some masks and snorkels which is obviously what you need at 2am. We didn’t last long in the next bar but we did make it there.
Next morning another
transfer to the hotel we had originally booked Jamahkiri, supposedly the grandest on the island. It’s quite simply the best hotel i’ve ever stayed at - upon arrival we were greeted with soft cocktails and a warm smile dumping our stuff we were eager to pool where again the smiles were abundant, pool towels laid out on the bed waiting and a fresh glass of iced water constantly topped up goes along way. We’d hit gold here. Probably the only downside was that the road is somewhat shakey and
The second night was for some overdue relaxing. Beisty and I made it in to the town but only for dinner and a quick night cap while Myster Frank elected not to trust his reputation and stayed at home.
The sombre night made for a relaxing day as we all made it up for breakfast and slipped right in to holiday mode... Routine set... same sun beds, same books, same banter..... we spent our time pondering how the Jacuzzi automatically turned itself on every time we ventured near it although greater fascinations lay in how Paul could swim in an inverted breast stroke fashion for such a distance. Despite being
champers by the pool
.. with our reputation? a member of the magic circle he revealed his swimming secret.... his lips are so big that he can cover his nose and solve what would be most peoples’ pluming issues. Our concentration on such matters however was promptly interrupted when at 2pm a loud Pop emanated from a couple of honey mooners... all a bit partial to nice bubbly and a little disappointed we hadn’t been able to flavour (especially ina bar whose name is fizz) it was always going to happen - for Myster Frank it was a red to the proverbial bull. Dashing up to the bar returning with a chilled bottle of Moet. Sipping back in the Jacuzzi magnificent view before us. With the price tag almost 3 times that in the UK we sensibly refrained from a second bottle and had a couple of beers instead.
We headed into town for the evening and decided to see if fizz culinary delights were as good as the ambiance we’d tasted the nights before. It was a very European menu which would normally spell disaster in Thailand but somehow the food was very good. Once again the Rose went down with ease and good times where
had - at 2am We decided to try one of the other late night bars which was a bit more of a nightclub. We’re all older now but still like a dance so it was nice to show off some grandad moves on the dance floor.
Next day was pool time once more thankfully without any alcohol
Our last night with Myster Frank was going to be sad affair for the past week or so I’d been with two of my closest friends the bond between the three of us was strong. Despite concerns about where it may lead we let Myster Frank decide the agenda for the night. Starting with another seafood feast and cheesy cocktails in a beach front restaurant. Next stop Koh Taos Lady Boy Cabaret... Thailand undoubtable has a ‘sex tourist’ industry but Koh Tao is completely at the other end of the spectrum so we felt quite safe. The show was done in very good jest obvious miming to songs and all very OTT. From almost the first day of the trip we’d had some banter about the occasional lady boy you’d see referring to them as ‘George’. Applauding each performance our own repertoire
was complete with ‘ Well done Lads’ ‘Nice one George’ in the deepest voices we could muster. At the end of the show we got our pictures taken with the performers while most backpackers shunned the attention a possibly persuasion to give them a tip.
From there we went to our now second home, Fizz where we had one last bottle of rose before heading on to one of the late night spots... some serious drinking left us heading back to the hotel at 6am...
The next was morning was hard. We’d been a bit bling and hired a speed boat for a day so that we could have a day round the island and take Paul on express trip back to Samui. It was a shame to leave Jam - we’d had a great time there - but at least we left in style.
First off we asked to do some snorkelling... heading to a place they recommended it seems backpacker also charter boats although anchoring up next to their long tail fitted with 7-up sun parasol you couldn’t help but think the extra money was worth it. Sometimes you’re in danger of looking like pricks when engage
in bling but I think if you’re not taking it seriously it can be fun . As we speed past other day trippers in our pimped up boat we were living the dream. For lunch we stopped at island - three islands connected by beach... i never made it here seven years ago but my word it must have changed as it now has ferry loads of tourists coming to tick it off their list.
All too quickly the captain said that he’d have to start making his way back to samui.... we were dropped off at the pier and forced to say goodbye to Mister Frenk - as the boat drifted from the pier a rendition of ‘one man went to koh samui’ changed any sad thoughts in laughter.
The next two days on the island seemed a little empty without him and most of the other inhabitants who had started to migrate to the neighbouring island for the full moon party. In fact our last night on the island being the full moon only a handful of bars even bothered to open. The next day we were up and making the trip to Koh Samui ourselves. We
decided to stay in Lami this time - while it may be better than Chengweng it is still far from the paradise we had left. I did catch my first ever Thai boxing fight there and get a few pairs of trousers made but a night in Samui seems more of a chore in the long haul journey than a bonus.
There was much talk to the WAGs while we were away and hopefully we’ll all meet soon in a similar paradise to introduce them all.
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