Koh Chang

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It's pouring with rain so it seems a good time to update my blog. It's been pretty good weather all the time I've been here, which is four or five days (I've lost all track of time, day or date) and it's poured all day, which is the pay off for it being so lush on this island compared to the mainland, which is quite barren in places, it being the dry season. I'd love to visit during or after the wet season as currently none of the island's famous (famous once you're here that is) waterfalls have any water, which puts a slight dampener on things, as it were.
It is very beautiful here, it's much like the island from Lost or Jurassic Park, minus the plane crashes and dinosaurs. Steep, jungle clad mountains flatten out towards the sea forming, in places, the white sandy beaches which draw people here, it's just like a postcard. The only trouble with paradise is it doesn't tend to include flushing toilets; not on my budget anyway; Bangkok lulled me into a false sense of security as most things here, especially food is about 50% more expensive. My standards are falling rapidly. My current accommodation is the kind of thing they build with Red Nose Day money in Africa, or at least what I imagine they build. But that's fine by me, I now feel very rugged sharing my shower with the lizards and seeing the rain in the gaps in the walls.
There's not a terrific amount to do here; I went to a fishing town built on stilts, which was cool and I did a snorkelling trip, which was a touch on the long side but still fun and it took us to some stunningly beautiful islands, although the aquatic life was nothing particularly exciting, mainly the sorts of things a self-respecting garden centre would have on sale, maybe less. There were, however, some terrifying sea urchins, bigger than footballs! I steered well clear. Mainly it's been laying around on the beautiful beach and having drinks with fellow travellers. It's nice here, very chilled and it's a good crowd too, even if there are rather more tattoo parlours than I feel entirely comfortable with...
In this town I met a fascinating woman who ran a restaurant there. Slightly mad but a real character. She was born in England but had never spent more than 10 years in one place (she was about 50); Colombia, New York, London, Spain, Thailand. She had many, many tales to tell of travelling, working as an undercover journalist, funny local stuff; I was hooked and there for about 4 and a half hours! SHe threw some interesting light on the way Thailand works, including the Red/Yellow conflict and was very critical of the short-sightedness of the tourism industry on the island, which makes sense. At the moment it is lovely and relatively obscure; there are few enough people you run into the same crowd in the bars most nights, which is nice, but in five years or so I fear it will be spoiled, in truth I think it's already past it's peak, which was certainly the opinion of this woman I met.
One evening a random Thai family, who were on holiday, invited me to have dinner with them on the beach, which was great. Only two of tehm spoke quite broken English, which deteriorated as alcohol was consumed, as did my ability to make sense of what they said! At one point I thought they were setting me up with a sister, who was about 35, asking me "she nice? she nice?" but they seemed to go off this idea and retained a polite reserve. I didn't stay too late as by 10.30 they were completely sloshed and I thought I'd leave them to it, I couldn't drink much as they salted the drinks, which was completely disgusting! I also tried a load of their nibbles, seaweed, dried cuttlefish and this frightful sausage, which I think was basically bacon fat with little embedded bits of chili! I managed to swallow it, washed down with some nice salty vodka and soda. I felt a martyr to politeness!
I've just had lunch, which was the first bad food I've had in Thailand, it was just really cheap ingredients badly prepared! I also asked for some sliced mango and received half a raw cabbage; I should have known; the menu offered 'deep fried morning glory' and 'Chinese 100 year egg' - I didn't ask.
Hope you are all keeping well etc. etc. and hopefully will write again from my next stop, Siem Reap in Cambodia, home of the Angkor Wat temples, as you can imagine, I can't wait!

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Comments

[Doug]

Deep fired morning glory....
Gus, It sounds like your having a blast, very jelous! Just wanted to say i very much enjoy reading your blog entrys, a real treat to my regular procrastination routine I assure you... Keep having fun, keep chatting to the locals and enjoy enjoy enjoy. Not alot to report from me just trudging through the muddy waters of my dissertation.... Take care, Doug x

[Ana]

Wow
Gus you're independence astounds me! Sounds like you're having the most incredible time. xxx