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Published: November 30th 2009
Ammi feeding the elephants sugarcane
Elephant Conservation Center, Chiang Mai “We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm, and adventure. There is no end to the amount of adventures we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.” - Jawaharial Nehru”
Bangkok is hard to describe at first glance. There are too many things in the blender to give it one simple label. At first glance Bangkok is the city that feels like what I imagined Southeast Asia to be like. Bangkok is a gritty, fast paced, too many electrical plugs in one socket kind of city. A city with 6 foot Monitor lizards swimming in the lakes of the public park. A city with more touts per square inch than unidentifiable grease stains on the sidewalk--though there are plenty of both! A city where kids will train in Muay Thai their whole lives for the entertainment of frenzied spectators. The traffic is Nascar without the rules in the day time and a parking lot once work lets out. Bangkok also is famous for its red light district showing ping-pong shows (no elaboration from me) and guys get the prom-queen treatment (wink wink) just for sitting at the bar top (not
that I would know, Mom). Bangkok is also the home of thousands of 'Sex Pats' (a play on Ex-patriots). These are usually creepy old men in their 60's who come to Thailand to find young beautiful brides that are just interested in their American passport and (through exchange rates and low cost of living) comparative wealth. The bookstores contain entire shelves devoted to 'how to find and attract a Thai bride,' and more shelves with books in Thai on 'How to find and attract a wealthy American.' A visit to Bangkok's MBK shopping mall will provide you with access to every imaginable pirated software, movie, or video game that you could want for a few dollars. The word 'copyright' is simultaneously a joke and punchline. And yet, Bangkok is also an amazingly beautiful city, full of amazing Buddhist Temples with Buddha statues carved from jade to gold to stone. Bangkok is also a metropolis with international skyscrapers, subways, skytrams, and movie theaters where you can watch while relaxing on a leather couch! The locals call their home 'City of Angels', but the actual name is a wee bit longer: Krungthep mahanakhon amonratanakosin mahintara ayuthaya mahadilok popnopparat ratchathani burirom udomratchaniwet mahasathan
Khao San Road
It's like the Mecca for backpackers. We'd meet people in other parts of the world and then we'd see them here months later. Weird. amonpiman avatnsathit sakkathattiya witsanukamprasit. Yet, no matter what you call it, Bangkok is a city worth a visit at least once, even if only to see what all the fuss is about.
We arrived in Bangkok on a sleeper train. It's basically a long hallway with bunk beds on either side and a flimsy curtain for privacy. We were kicked out of bed in the early morning so the beds could be made for the next group of passengers (even though we weren't close to the station) and then served an overpriced breakfast. We found a cheapie guesthouse off loud and obnoxious Khao San Road. Theee Khao San Road. Ever see 'The Beach?' We didn't intend to stay in Bangkok for very long, but an emergency forced us to wait for a package from the States. Plus we were trying to get our Indian Visa, which was supposed to take 5 days from Monday to Friday, but because both days happened to be Indian holidays it took from Tuesday to next Wednesday, so we ended up being stuck there for a few weeks! Being stuck in Bangkok that long is like a few months. We looked at the same
bookstores over and over, saw a few movies, listened to the touts trying to sell us wooden frogs, and every time we stepped one foot out of the hotel a tuk-tuk driver would clap at us like we were animals to get our attention. We walked around the parks, saw the local markets, and the more touristy floating market and some day traveled on the sky tram and river buses 'just for something to do.' We learned the bus routes very, very well. We ate Pad Thai and drank 7-11 coffee about a bazillion times. Don't get me wrong, there's lots to do in Bangkok if you are there 3 days but after 3 weeks it all get a little dull. We basically enjoyed our stay but we were oh-so glad once we were able to leave.
Chiang Mai is the so-called 'cultural center' of Thailand. It has a red light district similar to the one in Bangkok, but with more temples per capita. It's not a very large town, but has an big moat that was built at some point to defend against someone or other. It has an impressive Sunday night market that only allows indigenous musical
Ammi in front of the giant Reclining Buddha
Why is he reclining? 'He's being enlightened.' I'm often enlightened for five hours on Sunday. instruments, and you can eat a good meal for about $1 or get a full body massage. We took a cooking class, visited the Elephant Conservation Center, and watched a Muay Thai fight. Since it was close to the end of Buddhist Lent the night sky was full of paper lanterns that floated like lazy UFOs. We saw them being launched a few blocks away one night so we decided to see if we could get a closer look. As we neared the launching zone (about 50 feet away from us) one of the lanterns was 'mis-launched' and floated directly into a series of power lines. The lantern exploded into a medium sized fireball, sending sparks in all directions, and causing a city-wide power outage. The remaining cinder of a lantern floated lazily to the ground. No further lanterns were launched that night. We we get home I'm going to figure out how to make those lanterns and see if I can fake a UFO sighting in the sky and get on the news. I have weird hobbies.
On a related note, we were hoping to make a detour to Nong Khai to solve the mystery of the
Naga Fireballs. Small Buddha shrine.
No one can claim that Buddha statues smell bad We saw a blurb in 'Backpacker: South East Asia' magazine that got our attention: “Astounding miracle or elaborate hoax? This unusual spectacle that occurs along the Mekong in North Thailand on the border with Laos has baffled even the most skeptical onlookers. On the night of the full moon, at the end of Buddhist lent, hundreds of spectators congregate on the banks, eyes glued, as burning red fireballs ascend from the surface of the water into the night sky. Locals believe this phenomenon occurs because of Naga, the great serpent of the underworld who dwells in the murky depths. Once a year, Naga sends a powerful sign to all villagers to remind them to respect the river and the life source it stands for. Researchers have tried to solve the mystery, but no one has been able to explain how or why this phenomenon takes place on the same night each year. Still dubious? Well, there's only one way to make up your mind!” I certainly don't believe in river monsters, but it sounded like one of those few things that remain a mystery today and can capture the imagination like early explorers exploring mysterious lands. In the end we
Wat Pho, Bangkok
Or as Mr. T would say: "Wat Pho Fool!" weren't able to make because of our unexpectedly long stay in Bangkok. It's probably just some old man releasing paper lanterns or something. But then why can't I find anybody debunking it? Even Wikipedia says the fireballs are as small as eggs. Hmmm.
We hopped on a bus headed for Soppong. Halfway through the bus journey they kicked us off onto the side of the road in Sop Bong. Only then did we realize something had been lost in translation and we were on the opposite side of the country from where we intended to be. This town had no hotel or bus station, and the locals were looking at us like they've never seen white people before. Luckily, we employed our emergency tactic, known only by the most seasoned travelers. This is a time honored and incredible successful technique we call: 'sit on the side of the road, looking confused and utterly pathetic.' Aspiring traveling everywhere we urge to adopt this method and use it in good health. Thankfully for us, in about five minutes a young guy who spoke English came along and took pity on us. He told us which bus to get on, waited with
Ammi giving alms to the monks.
There's such a long row of bowls and people offering at once that it constantly sounds like hail on a tin roof. us until it arrived and explained to the driver where to take us. We went to Chiang Rai, spent the night, then realized we'd have to go all the way back to Chiang Mai and then on to Soppong from there because we couldn't get there directly. Who names these towns!?! If I find that guy he's getting a swift kick to the stones!
Soppong is a nothing of a town in the middle of nowhere that we only went to in order to stay at the
Cave Lodge. This was a fun little lodge in the middle of the jungle where you can meet lots of fellow travelers and serves as a nexus point for visiting caves, going on hikes, and seeing indigenous villages. The hard part was getting there from Soppong by motorcycle. Ammi hates motorcycles and it was almost a deal breaker. Luckily, she made the trip and promptly promised never to ride another as long as she lives. Nearby Lod Cave is supposedly the biggest cave in Southeast Asia and we got to watch thousands of swifts (birds) return to their nests at sunset and then watch thousands of bats exit for the night. This cave
Floating Market Traffic jam.
This is why it's better to walk to the Floating Market than take an expensive boat where you only see other tourists anyway. is unique because we got to explore it via an underground river that allows guides to ferry people through on a bamboo rafts. There are also many archaeological artifacts in the caves such as coffins and burial sites. It reeks of guano (bat poop), though. Another fun thing we did was rent a truck to visit the indigenous villages with a couple of our new friends Gaby and Michelle. It was surprisingly easy adjusting to shifting with my left hand and driving on the left side of the road. We had seen pictures of women with the neck-stretching rings around their necks, but we must have gone to the wrong village as it looked basically the same as many villages we've seen before. Then next day Ammi asked if we could get a truck taxi instead of a motorcycle. I agreed and it ended up being...the same truck we just rented. Unfortunately the guy (who supposedly grew up driving on the left side of the road) decided to drive half on the road and half off, making us fly up in the air and smack the ceiling a few times. Maybe I should have drove.
Our last stop in
Line of Buddha statues that stretched around the courtyard.
Could you imagine if our heads of state had to sit like this all day? Thailand was Sukhothai, a small town built by the Khmer Empire back in the 13th century, chalk full of Buddha statues, huge gongs, and temples. It's one of the most photogenic sites in Thailand and deserves to be seen on bicycle for a few days.
All in all we enjoyed our 7 weeks in Thailand and would recommend a visit to anyone.
Next stop: Laos! 😱
***TIPS FOR TRAVELERS***
Merry V Guest House in Bangkok is only 200 Baht for a room and is not directly on Khao San Road. It's at 33 Chana Songkran Road right next to 'My House' listed in Lonely Planet. Walk straight out the front door and try a Pad Thai at any of the various street vendors. YUM!
What do you do with those 1000 Baht notes the ATM gives you? They'll always give you change at a 7-11.
If a Tuk-Tuk driver offers you a really cheap ride (10-20 Baht), you will most likely end up on a grand tour of gem shops, silk merchants and tailors in the greater Bangkok area. Now we have heard mixed reviews of this experience. Some say that if you I used to think Buddhism was a religion/philosophy that didn't focus on donations.
But there's donation boxes everywhere you look, and why is everything gold plated? Hmm. have the time, this isn't necessarily a bad thing--cheap ride for you and petrol credits for the driver. But beware, I've also heard of people being led to secret rooms with hidden door knobs that are impossible to leave without buying some overpriced glass. We think it is best to learn the bus routes. You can pick up a free map listing all the routes at the tourist information office.
You can get to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market on your own but it can but slightly difficult. Go to the bus stop for the 124 bus near the corner of Th Phra Athit and Th Ratchini (in the Banglamphu neighborhood, a few blocks Northeast of Khao San Rd). Ask the driver to take you to the Southern Bus Station. Go to window 89 and ask for a ticket to the floating market (Bus 996 for us, remember the number of your bus! It is essential to getting back). The bus will drop you off at possibly one of the most expensive water taxi services, so for a better deal walk towards the market and either choose a service on the way or at the market itself. In our
opinion, the paddle variety boats are better than the motor powered kind and walking around the market on foot is still a must. Sadly, getting back is a pain. We had to walk out to the main street and walk until we were able to get another 996 bus to stop for us. We loved doing the trip independently but if you are short on time or patience you may be better off taking a tour. As always check these details locally before you head out because everything changes.
Need an escape from the urban jungle? The parks in Bangkok are really spectacular and a great way to get away from it all. A couple of our easily accessible favorites: Lumphini Park and Chatuchak Park.
Need a nice, affordable place to stay in Chiang Mai? Try the Homeplace Hotel. We paid 200 Baht for a double room with a fan, a private bathroom and cable TV. It's easy to get there. From the train or bus station take a sawngthaew (the trucks with the benches in the back), ask them to take you to the Tha Phae Gate (everyone knows where this is) and don't pay more than
Tuk Tuk. So named because their noxious gas-spewing mufflers make that sound trying to stay running.
Anyone who's been to Thailand can testify how frustrating it can be to have every single person asking: "You want Tuk Tuk? Special price for you!" If they give you a special price it means they will take you to a fake gem shop for a comission. 60 Baht. It is at the end of an alley, opposite the gate, heading away from the old city (east). The address is # 9 Soi 6 Tha Phae Rd.
Are you looking for the BEST Pad Thai in Thailand? We found it! In Chiang Mai near the wooden bridge (across the moat about 4-5 blocks north of The Tha Phae Gate) on the west side. The restaurant is a hole-in-the-wall place just south of the produce market with a yellow sign (no English) outside and light blue title inside. The lady who runs the place is kind and pretty in her bright fuchsia lipstick and she makes the best Pad Thai you can imagine!
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lynne cordova
non-member comment
Travel Adventures!!
Thanks for sharing your adventures to places I probablely never be able to see....I have enjoyed it with the 2 of you!!!Lynne