Another week in Chiangmai slips through my fingers

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That’s what it feels like -precious grains of time slipping through my fingers. And they slip through faster as I get closer to the end of the trip. There are so many new places to discover and familiar places to re-visit and so many interesting people to talk to. The icing on the cake is that I’m responsible only to myself and each day is a ‘jolly’!
So on Tuesday morning I set off to the acupuncture clinic. I asked the acupuncturist how my pulse was performing and he said was about half, so I replied that I’d like 100% please. He was very amused by this so I’d like to know why. I’m still contemplating whether to go for a medical check up at one of the Chiangmai hospitals while I’m here.It seems like a bizarre thing to do, but it’s true, my energy levels feel low and I’m exhausted at the end of the day even though I’ve done so little.
So after acupuncture I went for a wander, in search of the lovely leafy coffee shop with an ‘ancient ‘ walled garden. I found the Wat where I’d taken some photos last time I visited this coffee shop, but the Wat was at the junction of 4 lanes and I couldn’t guess which way to go. A young American couple asked if I’d take their photo together ( proper camera, no phone and selfie stick!) outside the Wat. I took a few photos for them and said I was going in search of the nice coffee shop and they said they’d find it with me with the aid of maps.me. Haaaaa!! Which I actually have on my phone but had forgotten. It’s great because it works without WiFi and tracks the route you are taking . And of course, it was just around the corner. I bought Ella a tea ( Adam didn’t want anything) and we chatted. Lovely people. They have a beachfront pizzeria in North Carolina. They are flat-out busy for7-8 months of the year, they shut up shop after Thanksgiving till the next year. They put their profits into ‘real estate’ and go off traveling. We said goodbye. They have more of Thailand to see and then they’re off to Sri Lanka.

Today I avoided the cake and had Thai green curry with BLUE rice. I had imagined that blue rice was just colouring and a present trend. But Nui tells me it’s from a blue wild flower-looks like a sweet pea but it’s good for you.
I did some reading in the ‘Secret Garden ‘ cafe and then walked home via Rimping Supermarket as I’d decided to make the sisters a lemon cake. And a bottle of Italian red because we are all invited to a shared dinner with some visitors of Nui’s. But the visitors were poorly so dinner is cancelled and Nui suggests that we go and have Italian food at Le Lapin ( Eunice -that’s where we went with the sisters last year) .. Upin, the masseuse, appeared so I had a massage. We waited for Nana , the young Indonesian teacher, to come back from her day at the pottery studio, and all had a glass of the Italian red. Had a lovely meal and then came back to finish the bottle as a nightcap. Nana had had a wonderful day at the pottery studio. I’m inspired to go too.
Next day I took my time to get going, because tomorrow there’s a plan for Nana and I to make a day trip to Chang Rai. I’ve been there before with Kath and Bob and I know it means 3 hours to get there and 3 hours to get back. No one else volunteers to go, so I feel I should be a chaperone! Penn says the car must be checked first ( so it may not happen?)
I went out to find an ATM to get money for tomorrow and had some Japanese dumplings in the Nepal coffee shop (!!!?) in Worarot. Went back to The Dragon Phoenix exhibition to check the price and details for the babysuits for Jill. They’re Miao tribe from the Chinese province of Guizhou, and also rather expensive.
I had planned to take a weaving course with the nice smiley textile teacher I’ve met on previous visits to Chiangmai, but he was’t there. So I came back to Baansong Jum, got on line and booked myself into the pottery studio.
I didn’t make the cake ( very unsure of the microwave oven that also works as an ordinary oven ......apparently. ) I went to the Meeting Room and bought some slices of lemon pie made by Joe’s wife and gave them to Nui as it’s her birthday tomorrow. Nui gave me some delicious Vietnamese spring rolls for dinner. Had an early night as Penn, Nana and I are leaving for Chiang Rai at 7am tomorrow.
Started reading the book Dorothy’s lent me - Pachinko by Min Jin Lee. It’s about 4 generations of Korean immigrants to Japan, and reflects from a different perspective what immigrants have to suffer to find a home in the world.
Tuesday 8th February ( Nui’s birthday) and Nana and I had a hasty piece of toast ( thank goodness we did) and we set off on the 154km drive to Chiang Rai.Penn was very chatty and kept up a running commentary on Thai history, SE Asian history and the merging of cultures across the centuries.
About an hour or so out of Chiangmai we ‘toilet stopped ‘ for 10 minutes at Wang Pa Pao where hot volcanic water bubbled up from the ground, hissing and steaming into the air. Back in the car and we headed on to Chiang Rai. The road was surprisingly quiet, and not many lorries on it.
On the outskirts of Chiangmai the white temple is visible , sparkling into a clear blue sky. I came here four years ago when I traveled with Kath and Bob.The temple was work in progress then, and it still is today. We must have visited in February 2014, and in May 2014 the temple was damaged by an earthquake. The architect Chalermchai Kositpipat was concerned at the time that he’d have to demolish it for safety reasons. He’d already spent 20 years building it. But tests showed that the basic structure was sound, so they rebuilt and now there are new buildings and several more are still under construction. All buildings are either a blinding white, with sparkling reflections dancing off the little pieces of mirror which adorn the rooftops, or a rich gold. It was worth getting on the road a bit earlier to be able to wander around before the hordes of tourists who start to arrive in group tour coaches after 11am. Nana had never been there before and hadn’t know what to expect. Her face lit up, surprised and delighted. The main temple is like a celestial wedding cake!
Sculptured white grasping fingers reach up as if to grab the passing tourists and drag them down to the underworld. ( not actually moving of course). Behind the glimmering icing on the temple cake there is a stark reminder of what can befall wrongdoers. Inside the main temple you can’t take photos. I understand that many of the murals were damaged during the earthquake ( I couldn’t see the depiction of George Bush and Michael Jackson, both astride a rocket heading for the stars. But other icons of the modern age were depicted and now include newer Japanese cartoon characters. Thai style boats float in the air of the temple walls, carrying the lucky ones onward to heaven.
Nana and I purchased silver leaf shaped prayer hanging sand wrote our prayer on them. It’s Jon’s funeral back in England tomorrow, so mine was for him and his family. My prayer was hung up and will be clustered together with those of visitors from all around the world, eventually becoming part of the temple itself, providing a decorative roof for the walkways.
We left the white temple as coaches were arriving, spilling out groups of chattering children with their worksheets at the ready. Before leaving, Nana and I visited the Golden Toilets ( last time I came Kath and I missed them.)Truely a throne room!
Next Penn took us to see the statue of the goddess of mercy , Guan Yin , who sits calmly in meditation on a hilltop, looking benevolently over the surrounding countryside. She is massive, and you can see against the skyline from far away . She’s also ‘work in progress’ so we were unable to make merit by clambering up the temple steps to reach her but were driven up in a little cart. Inside there was a lift which took us up to the26th floor where, on a level with the goddess’s brows, we could peer out through her giant eyes!The inside was also encrusted with Chinese dragons and mythological characters. The countryside around looked beautiful with rows of tea plantations and coffee plantations. This area used to be near the infamous’ Golden Triangle’ and the organic farming is all part of a project developed by the late Thai king to wean the population away from a lucrative illegal occupation and towards tea, coffee and tourism.
Penn was ready to fit in another place before lunch, but Nana and I couldn’t wait for lunch any longer. Penn used to work and entertain clients in this area, so he knows all the good places to eat. He drove us down to the pretty Kok river bank and a restaurant, Ladawadee and a riverside table.It was deserted when we arrived but no sooner had we ordered , than people spilled in through the entrance and the other tables filled up. But our lunch was already ordered and we got our food first. With Penn’s encouragement the table was soon covered with dishes: a huge tilapia fish with fried garlic,tiny crispy river shrimps with a spicy sauce , a fragrant Tom Kha soup, fried rice ( not at all oily) and a crunchy green vegetable I haven’t had before-
We ate until we could eat no more, and then nibbled a bit more, and then the left-overs were parcelled up for us to take home. That’s what I love about Asia-nothing wasted!
The next place on our “guided tour” with Penn was The Black House - ‘Baandam ‘ ( Baan means home and dam means black) it’s the home of the artist Thawan Duchanee who was born in Chiang Rai in 1939, and died about three years ago. For 50 years he built this Baandam Musuem of folk art on a plot of land in his hometown.
It’s a collection of about 40 small black houses made of wood, glass, concrete, bricks and terracotta in various unique styles and designs. The buildings houseThawan’s collections of paintings, sculptures, animal bones, buffalo horns, silver, gold and other unique artifacts from around the world. Several of the houses exhibit Lanna(Northern Thailand)and S E Asian architecture and art. His collections were a source of inspiration for his art. The largest building resembles a Thai temple, but there’s nothing religious about the space inside. Apparently the local population were upset by his buildings at first, thinking that they were some sort of criticism of Buddhism, but when invited to see what he was doing they accepted it. Now the Baandam receives many international visitors as well as being a study centre and an inspiration to a younger generation of Thai artists.
Amongst the black buildings are three white pods which house seating made from buffalo horn set around the edge of the circular rooms, which have a bell-like echo. Maybe rooms for meditation.
As we left the Baandam we bought some chunks of papaya and little pineapples, trimmed and peeled, but still whole and still on their stalks like lollipops and deliciously sweet.
Penn drove us outside the city to a park and organic farm developed by the Thai company Singha beer. We had a great cup of local coffee and Nana and I shared a blueberry cheesecake. Penn was all for showing us around the park and the tea and coffee plantation, but with a three hour journey home, and it being Nui’s Birthday, and worried for Penn being tired for the drive home ..... we declined and hit the road. Next day I saw on Facebook that ex HEF students Jay and Pat had gone to the very same places in Chiang Rai, and had photos among the neat rows of tea bushes. Such a shame that we didn’t meet up!
It was a lovely drive, watching the sun setting behind the mountains and the last rays gently falling across the rice fields. I had a fleeting glimpse of a man sitting in the fields, his body stance reflecting his peace with the world, while two cows munched on the grass nearby.
We stopped at the same hot springs on the way home, and now people were busy boiling their hens eggs and quails eggs in the bubbling volcanic 98degree water, and sitting down to peel off the shells and eat them , with their feet dangling in the hot water syphoned off ( and presumably cooled off somewhat!) Returning to the bustling streets of Chiangmai, we stopped by our local supermarket to get some simple supper snacks and a bottle of red wine for Nui’s Birthday. Our friends were waiting for us in the warm glow under the old house. Nana was mortified when the bag containing the bottle slipped from her grasp and broke. We all soothed her with ‘spilt milk ‘ and all that. Anyway, Rich saved the day by slipping over the road to the Samsen Villa restaurant to buy a bottle of Jacobs Creek. So we had an evening of warm and companiable talking, eating, drinking and laughing ....... and so to bed.
Friday, 6.30am and I heard noises indicating that Nana was leaving. She’s off to the airport for a flight to Penang to meet up with a friend for a few days before going back to China and work. I’d said my farewells the evening before,and I just couldn’t get up! But when I did , Nui showed me that, when we’d all gone to bed, Nana had slipped over to the restaurant and bought another replacement bottle of wine. She’s such a sweetie.
I walked swiftly up to the old city to my appointment at the acupuncture clinic. The acupuncturist is on holiday next week, so I’ll have to wait a full week before my next appointment. I’ll miss it.Its a place that soothes and nurtures and there is music but it’s very soft and unobtrusive. The acupuncturist was in a jolly mood ( maybe the thought of his holiday next week!) My blood pressure was a bit low today and I still have the deep rumbling cough when I lie down or at the end of the day when I’m tired or talking. But he says he can see by my eyes and face that my energy levels are so much higher. I saw Nui on the way out, as she was just coming in for her appointment. So with the help of the app maps.me I found my way to the Secret Garden coffee shop for an avocado and egg on toast and a coffee. Delicious.
I took a slow meander home again, stopping at places where I’d considered making purchases. It’s funny how things you get excited about initially loose their allure with the test of familiarity. A good test of whether to buy or not!
I sat under the old house and shared a cup of tea and a chat with Nui and Kung.
That evening I met Dorothy and her friend Jennifer and we went to a Gershwin recital at Pyap University, just up the road from where I’m staying. We were asked not to take photos, so I only have one of two grand pianos and a Yamaha organ, to remind me.
There were four performers:
An American, Bennett Lerner, elderly, retired head of music at Pyap
Remi Namtep, a beautiful Thai woman with the most amazing braids of hair wrapped elegantly around her head
Book Kitavadhana , a tall Thai baritone with a twinkle in his eye and great delivery
Maykin Lerttamrab, a most accomplished pianist who played ‘Grand Fantasy on George Gershwin’s “Porgy and Bess” by Earl Wild ....... all from memory -no written music to follow

All wonderful performances, and difficult to restrain yourself and stay seated and not join in with the singing. The receptive audience showed its appreciation by a standing ovation along with whistling and cheering at the end. We walked out with a spring in our steps ...... singing ‘I’ve got plenty of Nuffin’ and ‘Summertime ‘ as we crossed the carpark.
Saturday 10th February. A new first. I’ve downloaded the app for Uber. ( I hate putting these tracking devices on my phone -but then-who would want to track me?!!!!)
I’d booked myself on the pottery course for three days and it’s over on the other side of town, in a residential area near the university. Before I started Blue-ginger I went to a hand building pottery workshop at Worcester Arts Workshop for at least once a week for two years. I absolutely loved it and had the best teacher in the world- Alison Ogle. Once about twenty years ago I tried throwing on the wheel and was woefully inept. So I’m having another go.
The teacher, Jern, was a gentle, almost spiritual man. His studio is called ‘Slow Hands’ and he promotes calm and patience. There was one other ‘student ‘ , Ue, a Thai lady married to a French professor at the university, and running her own little Montessori school. She has a thirteen year old daughter who is home schooling. They lived in Paris before returning to Thailand, and she said that it’s quite the norm for French children living abroad to be home schooled. There’s a programme they can download from the internet.
To start the day I enjoyed slabbing and wedging the two local clays to mix them thoroughly and to drive out the air bubbles. Jern’s studio is outdoors with just a roof to shelter from the midday sun. It seems that the little Adobe house behind the studio is his home, and was built with help from friends.
When the clay was completely mixed, we cut it into 400 gum balls and slapped them into ball shapes. They looked like a pile of medieval cannonballs. We had to wrap the clay in plastic quickly to prevent it from drying out.
Now the difficult part! I’m always in awe of the blue-ginger potters and the work they create on the wheel. Centring and working the clay on the wheel, pulling it upwards without loosing the centre and then pushing it back down....... waiting patiently to feel when you’ve ‘got it’, and then restraining your excitement so you don’t immediately loose the centre. Jern’s message was that nothing was impossible, and patience is paramount.
I admit to feeling quite defeated by the wheel for most of the time, but when for a few moments you know you’ve got the clay centred and responding to you -it’s joyous! Jern went off on his motorbike to get some lunch and brought back some noodles and soup for Ue and myself. Ex students trickled through during the afternoon to collect their work or just hang-out. Apart from a lunch break of about 20 minutes, Ue and I crouched over our clay and wheels for nearly six hours!
Another Uber driver found me at the studio and deposited me back home at Baansong Jum, splattered in clay! Howard came back from a day cycling around Chiangmai on his bike, and Nui sent us to a simple restaurant across the river for a vege noodle and beer supper. He’s very excited about his daughter’s arrival in Thailand in a week or so,and has loads of plans for where he’d like to take her.
Next day( Sunday) and I had a sore hand. It must have been from gripping the clay and maybe there was a bit of grit in it. But armed with plasters I took an Uber ride to the Slow Hands studio.
I started slabbing and wedging and making new clay for the day. My fellow beginner in clay, Ue, was also there, and a very competent blonde potter from the states, who was throwing pots at a rate of knotts. A very chatty young American art teacher from the Bronx was also there. Matthew is taking a sabbatical in Chiangmai and doing some volunteer Art teaching at a local orphanage for children with HIV/AIDS. He’s been experimenting with ceramics, batik ad drawing, and Jern has kindly let him use the studio as a base. He’s having a charity evening event at the studio tomorrow, selling his work and donating the money to the orphanage. He’s invited me to come along tomorrow, but I think I’ll pass, and instead I have quietly purchased one of Jern’s exquisite little teapots..
We finished at about five again today. It took ages for an Uber car to come. You can see the little car ikon moving on the maps, and see it going in the wrong direction and along dead end streets. That’s the trouble with it-these part-time drivers often have no idea where they are going! So I decided to get him to drop me at the old city walls and I would walk home from there. I forgot that it was the Sunday walking market, and with the central roads closed to traffic, a solid mass of people was shuffling down the street zombie-like and trying to see the stalls. It took me ages to walk back, but the lovely sisters had saved me some supper, so I didn’t have to go in search of food.

Monday 12th, and I had a day off potting ( because Matthew is setting up ready for his exhibition tonight)
I took a slow start to the day and then caught a red truck ( song taew) to Central Festival where there is a Uniqlo clothes shop. I bought t shirts and a pair of jeans ( too hot for here) and went to find a song taew home. But after consulting maps.me I realised that it was only 2 km and the walk would be good for me if I walked on the shady side of the street. I treated myself to an iced coffee and a slice of coconut cake ( made with fresh coconut) before going back.
I made an attempt at making the orange and lemon polenta cake in the Baansong Jum microwave/ oven. The oven must have been far too hot, and it cooked too quickly, but when I’d poured the orange/lemon sauce on top it looked fine. Everyone tried it and came back for seconds, and it was gone by the next day so must have been ok.
Michel and Marie-Noelle returned from their trip to Cambodia today. They’d had a wonderful time , despite grumbling that there were far too many tourists in Siem Reap. So that evening, along with them, Howard , Nui and Kung , we left Penn in charge of Baansong Jum and went to the Little ‘secret’ riverside restaurant nearby . We had a great time talking about books and politics . A great evening and very sociable.
Only one more week and I’ll be flying back to Singapore on the first stage of my journey home.
Feeling greedy and wishing I could stay for two months!

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