Sukhothai Kingdom

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I've just returned from a few days south of CM, to enjoy the Loi Krathong celebrations in Sukhothai, the first ancient capital of Siam. Its always hard to play 'catch up' in blogs, but I will do my best. 😊

First I must mention my unfortunate decision to stay the night in Lampang, about 2 hours outside the city. I took a sangteaw (song-tow) for an hour to Lamphun in order to visit a temple built for the Haripunchai Queen Thewi around 1200 AD. Not exactly grand-- in fact the best part of the temple devoted to this legendary woman are the signs that read: Please Remove Shoes, No Women Allowed. Ironic I'd say.

From Lamphun I took a public bus to Lampang, where I would reside for the evening and then use as a jumping point for the Elephant Conservation Center. I really could have just gone straight to the center and continued on my way, but I figured I'd check out Lampang and explore some. However, the city turned out to be awful; I stayed in a cheap, uber-seedy hotel that was the only option in my logical price range, and spent the whole evening and night wandering around trying to find something of interest, eventually getting completely lost. I must have circled the city three times, then sometime after midnight I was finally redirected 6 km in the opposite direction by two kind policmen... I did however find a semi interesting night market of food stalls and cheap clothing-- the local hangout for anyone between the ages of 12 and 18 apparently. I also got to sit by the river and watch the sun set from the steps leading down from one of the town's giant teak temples. I silently pined for Chris and wished he could share this pitifully poignant moment.

Next day I hopped back on the bus and headed to the Elephant Conservation Center, where elephants from all around Thailand are brought for free medical treatment. The park was set among beautiful grounds of manicured gardens, footpaths, lakes... and I arrived just in time to watch one of the 2 daily "shows", consisting of the elephants displaying their abilities to move logs, walk in a row, and then bow for the crowd. The packyderms can also paint! Although colorblind, they create beautiful pices of art (think talent like a kindergardener) and the center stays afloat by sales of their pices.

The tourist booths displayed posters explaining the age-old reliance upon elephants for logging and construction across Thailand, as well as their role in the army. There was also an info display about how they make elephant dung paper-- I really wanted to get in on this, but I already have three journals with me and that's all they were selling. Instead I bought some postcards, so look out you may get one! Overall it was a nice experience, peacefully quiet, and I got to pet some elephant trunks, which are scattered with thick wirey hairs.

I met a couple from the UK, the first of many European couples I would meet in the next 3 days. After I had my fill of elephants and a stop in the tiny restaurant for brunch/writing time, I took the bus back to Lampang and switched to another heading to Sukhothai. I didn't realize the distance between bus stations (in town) was so long, so once again I found myself walking the endless crumbling streets, but evenutally I was able to happily board and skip town. En route I made friends with two more couples-- Belgium and German this time. Its funny to spark conversation with people-- I find it best to say something outrageously ridiculous and once they laugh we chat like old pals. You can say anything really, and *fortunately* almost every European speaks English. 😊 Of course, its always necessary to ask where they are going/ have been, what they liked, what they do at home, etc., which by the end of the trip might not be quite as interesting but for now I am curious.

Sukhothai is divided into the Old City (where the UNESCO park is located) and the New City (with a string of 4-5 guesthouses, not much else). The bus took us to the New City, where I split a sangteaw to the Garden House with a Chinese couple. I wandered to a few places before giving in to the rooms in the stark white building across the street, the only ones available as the festivities begin. Though my building was technically part of Garden House (Bungalows), which had a wonderful cafe/ bar/ seating area with reclining chairs and movies in English, and a young friendly staff, I felt somewhat separated and didn't have hot water. After wandering the outdoor market on the main road, I spent the evening watching Starsky and Hutch (the new one with those famous guys, you know), and just talking with people also hanging out. More couples!

Sadly I had a terrible headache, maybe due to my braids? I'm not sure, but at home I would throw myself under hot water and relieve the tension. My shared shower did not have hot water, so I stayed awake in bed most of the night, squishing various parts of my scalp and forehead in effort to make it go away. It didn't. Next morning I slowly dragged myself out into the world and succombed to a "western style" breakfast of scrambled eggs and toast from the guesthouse (usually I have been eating street food, rice soup is typical morning fare) before catching the bus to the Old City. Of course, I met another 2 couples along the way, and teaming up with one, we rented bicycles and began touring around the various ruins. I became totally trigger-happy and after a bit separated so that I could leisurely practice getting the camera settings and angles right. The park is absolutely amazing-- beautiful shady lawns, moats, bridges, crumbling statues... They were preparing for the festival so the ground, ruins, and water were set up with oil burning candles, and several thatched roof food stalls, benches, and speaker systems were being put into place and tested.

Throughout the aternoon I peacefully petaled around on my bike, moseying from wat to wat, exploring the roads, and taking lots of pictures. It was humorous to move around and keep running into various European couples that I had met just recently, because there were so many it was hard to keep them straight! We instinctively recognized each other and began chatting, but I had to listen to their accents and talk for a few moments before it clicked who they were and where they were going to/ from. I guess I can see why Asian people always get us confused-- big guy with tiny counterpart, both sporting Northface clothing, camera in tow...

Around dusk was the most beautiful time in the park because the lighting was soft and low, and the candles all at once flared up-- there were thousands so it was necessary to rig a trigger system. A mist (actually smoke) rose from the lakes and since there were so few people around the entire park became a serene wonderland. The crumbling, sooty Buddhas and lush countryside surpassed every set of ruins Chris and I visited across Mexico 10-fold.

I ran into the same couple from the Elephant Conservation Center, who had rented a car and offered to take me back to the New City, first stopping at a wat a few km away. As it turned out we had to park and walk up a narrow 650 ft flight of blueish-bronze slabs of slate to reach the enormous standing and sitting buddhas, and, like the others, they had dainty flower and candle offerings, resting on their hands and feet...

This evening I hung out with a Swiss man I had run in to several times around the park, and whom I teamed up with for the following day at the festival. We took the bus back to the park the next afternoon, after a breakfast with several more Belgium couples. Franz (my new Swiss friend) had a kilo of meusli that he purchased in Bangkok and shared with us all-- apparently the good kind is hard to find and one of the Belgium coupleswas ecstatic. They are on a trip around the world, and after 3 months away from "normal" comfort foods I think they are getting nostalgic cravings... I'd never had it before and I must say I approve. 😊

At the park the second day the festivities were in full swing-- parades of exotic Thai princesses, dancers, fishermen, musicians, elaborate lanterns (an annual contest takes place and they create huge paper lanterns decorated with colored seeds and embellishments), and of course tribute to the beloved King Bumopol!

We spent the afternoon and evening wandering the park to listen to musical performances, cultural shows, masked dances, sample foods, etc. I've learned how to order yellow noodle soup with egg (instead of chicken or pork, for which they think I'm nuts) and I practice with my best Thai accent: "Sawadee-kha, khaw yaak geen nam thai gam paak gam khai?? Dee mai??"

As the sun set behind the trees and temples the lanterns flickered on, causing a misty haze to rise again from the water, and the numorous lanters hanging form the trees and set among the barges sparkled even brighter.

At 8 the light and sound performance began; and, although I bought a ticket for a seat, instead I walked around to the back (unguarded) entrance and settled right in among the professional (hired) cameramen with the best unobstructed view. I was equipped with my camera bag and monopod, and was switching lenses as I snapped away, looking professional, so no one even questioned me. The performance was narrated in Thai, telling the story of the ancient Sukhothai kingdom's people, wars, and heroes, and although I couldn't understand the words I was impressed with the flashing "lightning" on the ruins, colorful costumes, music, and releasing of the giant Loi Krathong lanterns into the air.

The final feature of the night was a firework and boat show across the lake, after which we stampeeded out of the park and boarded the buses back to our guesthouses...
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Friday morning I packed my bags, said goodbye to all my newfound friends, and boarded the bus out of Sukhothai. As is typical with travel, the bus I wanted to take had broken down, so I waited 2 hours at the station with a new couple, this time Australian. They are architects on holiday for one month, taking in the northern hills and then southern beaches before moving to the UK to look for jobs. The bus home to Chiang Mai was a long 6 hours, but by far the most comfortable drive thus far-- smooth enough to actually read!

Loi Krathong festival is in full swing here in CM; the streets are full of Thais having sanuk]/i], brightly lit markets, exploding fireworks, and zillions of candle offerings floating down the river...

I went out driving with my couchsurfing host, noticing for the first time the Thai male trendy hairstyle: a bit like emo haircuts, very effeminant, and gelled up to look like it was blow-dryed from the back or side... I think tonight is the night for young lovers to go have some sanuk, lighting candles and playing in the streets....

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Comments

[Emily]

Wonderful wonderful
What an amazing journey you are making (yet again)! I love your pictures, especially the one of the elephant painting. Even without your photography this is an amazing travelblog. You really should publish a book (or two or three) to inspire the rest of us. Miss you and all the fun times in Arizona, but I hope to meet up with you (and Chris!) someday in a distant local but not so distant future. Take care!