Run for the border

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Run for the border

Time for a visa run. We had received tourist visas in Laos before heading to Thailand, giving us up to 60 days to stay in the country, provided we didn't leave. They flew by quickly and suddenly it was time to re-up our legality. From Chiang Mai, the closest and most commonly used border crossing is at Mae Sai, a town at the northernmost point in Thailand, across the river from Tachileik, Myanmar, and also very close to the border of Laos. This area where the three countries meet is often, and proudly, referred to as the Golden Triangle. The mountain climate is perfect for growing a significant cash crop: opium poppies. However, during the last few decades the government has been cracking down on the illegal drug trade, instead creating programs promoting the growing of coffee and other crops, as well as tourism. Regardless, it is still a convenient place to leave and return to Thailand.

We booked our seats on a nice 'VIP' touring bus with a regular schedule and hit the road early Sunday morning. Having spent two months in a city, it was very nice watching the countryside roll by. Huge swaths of rice paddies stretched along, hugging the curves of the jungle covered hills and mountains that burst up from the ground. Thai towns rolled by intermittently, shopfront doors lining the dusty highway, offering up food, motorbike parts, temple offerings, cell phone covers, building supplies; everything a small town might need, with a 7-11 thrown in more often than not. Street dogs roamed, crossing whenever, not bothering to look both ways. Occasionally some elevation would need to be gained and the bus would slow to a crawl, dragging it's cargo up the hill. About an hour out of town one of these hills fried something important under the bus, presumably the clutch, as the air took on that familiar smell. After limping over the crest we were rewarded with an hour break, awaiting our backup bus's arrival. Fortunately, we found ourselves stranded across the street from a small riverside resort, and the time flowed by quickly.

After arriving in Mae Sai, the first order of business was getting ourselves to the border. We considered motor-scooter taxis but instead boarded a song-tao and headed down the road. With us being the only passengers, our driver decided to pick up more fare and stopped at the front of a large Tesco-Lotus. Tesco-Lotus is a large chain store; often found throughout towns as 24-hr convenience stores. The one we stopped at had the size and appearance of a large Walmart, from its large illuminated sign to the KFC sharing its entryway, customers pushing shopping carts in and out. Each of the parking rows was covered with a metal overhang. All of the rows on the northern side of the parking lot were filled with cars, as expected. However, the southern rows had been turned into an outdoor market. Vendors had their racks and tables spread out in the shade, people mulling around getting the things the needed. These types of outdoor markets are common, but the sharing of the blatantly commercial space was surprising. The benches of the pickup filled and we were back on our way.

The actual border area was quite bustling. The large highway came to an abrupt stop, the sides of the road filled with vendors stalls that bottlenecked traffic towards the large immigration archway. People flowed into the left office and out of the right, the road in-between letting vehicles slowly come and go. After receiving our exit stamps we made our way across the bridge spanning the Mae Sai River, the natural border between Myanmar and Thailand. Food vendors along the bridge sold fresh fruit, deep fried stuff and crabs and prawns on ice. A few young boys approached tourists, hoping for some money or a bite to eat. Heading into Myanmar, we stopped by the immigration office to pick up our day pass. With the Myanmar government's slow release of its military dictatorship, land crossings into the country are severely limited. We left our passports with immigration and received a small card with our information and picture printed on it. This allowed us to wander around Tachileik for a couple hours before needing to return for our bus trip back. Had we wanted to explore Myanmar we would have needed to apply for a 7-day pass and hire a government guide for the week. Also, we would have only been allowed as far as K, a town 160 km from the border. Further travel would not have been allowed; to fully explore the country we would need to fly in.

However, a couple hours was all we were really looking for. The market on the Myanmar side of the river was considerably more busy. As soon as we exited the immigration hall we were accosted by taxi drivers wanting to take us on 'one hour tours.' Their laminated papers with pictures of the various sights were waved in our faces, vouching for their credibility. Pushing through, we started wandered the alleys between the tall buildings, perusing the goods and watching the people. The shops that occupied actual building space sold goods like shoes, clothing, watches and knockoff handbags of varying quality. There was also the occasional coffee shop or, more interestingly, a traditional Chinese pharmacy. These were filled with rows and rows of various fresh and dried natural medicines. Bags of dried mushrooms, flowers, flowers, roots and animal parts were lined up, filled with whole, sliced or ground products. Clear plastic bags hung in rows from the ceiling, holding dried fish air bladders. Nicely packaged teas were on display next to fine ceramic tea sets, with packaged nuts and seeds lining the counter. In front of the stores the space was filled with goods on display tables, underneath a sea of umbrellas. Cheap sunglasses, pirated DVD's, plastic jewelry, small idols and t-shirts intermingled with food. Large woks of chestnuts roasted over a small charcoal stove, dessert were fried up and sodas served. One mobile vendor even had fresh pressed sugar cane. He fired up his generator to quickly run a few stalks through his press, collecting the juice in a small tub below. This was poured over ice in a plastic and served with a straw. Delicious! Constantly meandering through the market were men or women carrying a small tray in front of them, Vegas style. Every single one was ready to wave a carton of cigarettes at you. If you didn't smoke they had Viagra, porn and probably any other illicit item you might be interested. The only way to make it through a group of them seemed to be with complete ignorance. The most intriguing vendor was a young man sitting behind a short section of glass display case. Along the top shelf were sets of various animal teeth and skulls. Some species we guessed at included tigers, monkeys, clouded leopards and elephants. Our interest provoked him to slyly show us the contents of one of the plastic bags on the lower shelf: a small leopard skin. While it is definitely an experience unique to the area, it was also a sad reminder of the methods people go to when considering an occupation, especially when that job is encouraged by a global market.

Our curiosity quenched and our available time in Myanmar rapidly depleting, we made our way back across the bridge, through customs and into Thailand. Going this direction included an x-ray machine for our bags and a pat-down. Various signs warned of the punishment (death) for smuggling, with pictures of contraband such as drugs, weapons or women in suitcases. We relaxed our feet with a nice lunch at a riverside restaurant, the brown water flowing along about ten feet below, carrying with it leaves and garbage. The end of our lunch was marked by a loud scream. Looking up suddenly, we were surprised to see a smiling mahout with a young elephant! He was leading her around, mostly with no tether, and had small bags of cut sugar cane for sale. Sarah fed the elephant, who was very eager for the snack and knew exactly what to do. Her eager trunk reached up for more as soon as the bite was in her mouth, warm breath from her trunk on Sarah's hand as she sniffed for more. Bag empty, the two thanked and squealed us and wandered off through the market.

By then it was time to get back to the bus station for our return trip home. We actually cut it too close and didn't have time to wait for a sorng tou to pick up and drop off passengers, and instead sought out a pair of orange vested motorscooter taxi drivers. This makes for a more direct and certainly more fun trip back down the main drag. We arrive at the bus station windblown and just in time for our bus ride home. Heading back home, the windows offer a sunset view over the Thai countryside. We're now good for another two weeks when we will make the trip again, delving further into the markets and hopefully meeting another elephant!

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Photos

Beer Truck
No such thing as too much beer

Elephant Feeding
Who doesn't love sugar cane?

Comments

[Sheri Gamba]

Wonderful update
Thinking of you both fondly. I truly enjoyed your update, thank you!