Ayubowan

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Ayubowan! It is the Amanwella greeting for "we wish you a long life!”

After a 23 hour plane ride (which I wont bore you with the details of) I was greeted by a nice man with kind eyes, wearing a white top and white sarong holding the “Aman Resorts”sign. I was kindly escorted to the car which would take me down the one road on the West side of Sri Lanka, to meet the spa Manager, Natalie.

Worrying: robbing us of the present moment

I had felt a little numb up to this point because I was trying not to have any expectations or worries about my trip. But now, as I drove 3 hours to Fort Galle, an old Colonial town in which one of the Aman resorts, Amangalla, was located, I was feeling a little unsure. I wasn’t at all bothered by the large population of people or poverty, I’m used to it and have seen it often while traveling, but in my car I was simply an observer. I started to create small worries in my head such as, “who will I talk to” or “what will I do all day?” These were exactly the thoughts I was avoiding having before my trip. This happens when you are not fully present and in the moment, your mind starts to wander, creating endless stories. Worrying comes from thinking of the future. I was imagining myself on the street with these people, trying to think of what I would do all day with my time. Truth was though, I wouldn’t even be on these road sides, I wouldn’t even be with these people, and all of my small worries were a waste of my precious time. I quickly snapped out of it. Realizing that I had my first opportunity for some Sri Lankan cultural immersion, I chatted up my driver. Rahn, is his name. He is from Tangalle, 5 hours from Colombo. He lives with his mother and siblings, even though he is 29. He told me stories of the Tsunami, which just 4 days later I have come to know is a frequent topic of conversation, he fortunately lived far enough away that his home wasn’t effected. He pointed out places along the road that unfortunately were. We entered Fort Galle which is located in Galle on the West coast of Sri Lanka. Fort Galle was on the water surrounded by tall mossy stone walls. A large white colonial building at the fort’s entrance, which had once been quarters for soldiers, was Amangalla. I was greeted by several handsome butlers who brought me water and a cold lemon smelling towellete for my sweaty face, and instructed to wait in the enormous lobby to meet Natalie, the woman who invited me to stay at Amanwella. I had only emailed with Nalatie and imagined her to be a sweet lovely Sri Lankan woman, and for some reason I pictured that she would be shorter than me. Oh how our mind creates false images, right? She is a stern English woman with a strong accent. Very conservative in her clothing and I must say she did give me a look up and down when I arrived sweaty in my scrubs and perma-fried affro.

Handstands during the “hydrotherapy” session

Natalie “arranged” a room for the night so I could rest and have a swim. Natalie insisted I have a hydrotherapy session, and I mean insisted. I kindly said that having a swim in the pool would be enough, but she said I “looked like I need it especially after such a long flight” as if sitting in a hot tub, sauna, and steam room combonation would perhaps make me look a little more presentable in such a high end establishment

So I finally accepted the offer, but got walked in on by one of the spa employees doing a handstand underwater in the hot tub. She must had heard all of the splashing from outside of the room and came in to make sure I was okay and seeing only my feet peeking out of the water, was starteled and thought I was drowning! I couldn’t stand the heat too long so I went to the pool for a swim. It was only 17:30 and it was starting to get dark. As I lay on my back floating in the water and watching the sunset, I caught a glimpse of the bats! The bats of course, only come out after dark. I then went to my lovely room for the night. I felt like a bull in a china shop! Everything was just so nice and perfect. While walking around the room and peeking at everything, I stubbed my toe on a foot rest and went flying into the desk and knocked over a large steel calendar!

Don’t look up from your plate or you’ll be bombarded by butlers!

Eating at Amangalla is quite the adventure. I have already learned how to cut food with my left hand, instead of cutting with my right hand then clumsily switching the fork and knife. It’s just because thats what Natalie does. It must be proper. I don’t know, I’ve never really been anywhere that I have needed to know such manners. Natalie is not rude to me, but I can sometimes see her watching me and I can only imagine what she is thinking. I just like to think that maybe she isn’t looking at me in dissaproval, but perhaps she thinks I’m interesting. She has repeatedly told other workers how although I denied being tired, I was exausted after my flight and the hydrotherapy was good for me. She was gazing at my earrings the other night, hopefully out of curiosity, but hasn’t said anything. However she was appaled by my half blue fingernails. She insists on “arranging” a manicure for me because it was just terrible (with her english accent it sounds more like “taribow”).

Anyways, back to the food. The butlers watch your every move and almost after every sip of water, the glass is refilled. My chair is pulled out for me, and and my napkin placed on my lap. If I even look up from eating my delicous food someone is at my side asking if I need anything. I can’t possibly need anything else! I have more than I need. I ordered traditional Sri Lankan Rice and Curry my first night at Amangalla and was surprised to see two servers carrying out a large tray, one on each side, which consisted of 13 plates of food!! I can’t even believe that they think I can eat all of that!

I wont be ripped off, not even on my first tuk-tuk ride!

Before leaving the fort to go to Amanwella, I needed to buy some clothes. I had only brought 3 pairs of yoga pants and 3 tops in my backpack. I needed to be respectful around town, wearing a long skirt and a top that covers my shoulders and chest. Natalie “arranged” for a tuk-tuk (Sri Lankan term for Rikshaw) to take me around the town shopping. She gave him a list of shops to take me to, then we were off. Only about 2 minutes outside of the Fort was the town center. I could have walked here! Apparantly though no one who stays at Amangalla would walk to the town, maybe they wouldn’t even go to town. Rahashan took me to a few small department stores, most skirts and tops were around 300 - 500 Sri Lankan Rupees. One American Dollar = 111 Sri Lankan Rupees. I knew that the department stores would be more expensive so I asked him to take me to the street market. He was taken aback by my request, not understanding why I would want to shop at the market. I guess I’m not a typical Amangalla guest !

Once Rahashan understood that I wanted to really see the town and buy some things from the locals, he took me to all of the great places. He introduced me to his cousins who worked at the shoe store where I bought my sandals (300 SLRs), took me to see the vibrant colors of the vegetable market, and even brought me to see the fire station where he worked when he wasn’t driving the Tuk-tuk. I really enjoyed Rahashan’s company especially since he helped me decide what color sandals to get, but upon my return to the fort, he asked me fo 1,000 SLRs. I quickly had a flashback of what people have told me about riding the tuk-tuks and how much they should cost. The drivers will generally try to rip you off. So he wanted around 10 American dollars for a driving me a few blocks. I handed him 600 rupees, which was MORE than enough, and thanked him. He was dissapointed, but I wasn’t going to be disprespected and taken advantage of just because I’m American, and I wont stand for that, not even on my first tuk-tuk ride. It wasn’t out of character for him to do that, its quite normal actually. I still enjoyed my time with Rahashan.

I wont cry over spilled afternoon tea either

Soon after returning from the city I was notified that Natalie “arranged” for a car to take us to Amanwella and that I must eat lunch and pack up. I did as I was told, then thought it might be posh for me to have some afternoon tea delivered to my room while I gathered my things. Well of course like a little girl, I spilled my tea all over the nice Amangalla furniture.

Not sorry about wanting a Sari

Amanwella is between two towns called Matara and Tangalla. The southern area of Sri Lanka is more rural and the cities aren’t as big. It was a beautiful 3 hour drive from Galle. Natalie and I discussed various topics, ranging from our family and holiday traditions, to the history along the roadside and her thoughts on Saris, a traditional Indian dress that many woman still wear. Natalie has never worn a sari and if she gets married, she might just wear one. She thinks that Sri Lankans “giggle” at western woman in saris because they “don’t know how to wear them”. On the other hand I have heard that the people like it when foreigners wear saris because it shows respect for their culture and traditions. I don’t care what Natalie thinks, I will probably be wearing one very soon, they are incredibly beautiful and graceful, and come in every vibrant color imaginable. I think I would like to buy an orange one and a turquoise one!

Sharing my room with some small but noisy friends

There is a dirt road turnoff from the main road (the same one that goes all the way down the west side from colombo) to go to Amanwella. I arrived there around 8:30 at night and was greeted by a beautiful Sri Lankan woman named Anusha. I was given a short and quick tour of the main area, which is separate from the rooms. The library, courtyard, lounge/tea room, and dinner area. There is a 40 meter pool in the main area as well. I think I will have my mommy send me my swim goggles so I can swim laps every day! I was escorted to my room by Amila, a nice handsome young man, in a cute little white tuk-tuk. The suites are each their own little villa style building and have their own little walkways. Anusha showed me to my room, where I was greeted by my own personal pool! Goodness. I had seen photos on the Amanwella website, but I just still couldn’t believe my own eyes! I have my very own king size bed in a large room, beautiful freestanding bathtub and two sinks! So I can wash my face in one and brush my teeth in the other.



I really giggle at all of this because it is much more than I need. I am not used to these luxories and certainly not used to staying in such places while traveling! I saw that I had a large balcony and could hear the waves, but because it was so dark, I had no idea what lie beyond that. I would have to wait until the morning to find out. Although I was ready for bed and had no more energy for splendid surprises, I discovered that I wasn’t and would probably never be alone in my room. As I was walking to bed I nearly tripped over a tiny baby lizard. This one was dark, he ran under my bed. Fine with me if I didn’t have to look at him. But then I lay in bed and up on the vaulted high ceilings was one of the while lizards, maybe about 6 inches long. You can almost instantly see them once they start making their lurk sounds. I spotted him on my ceiling after a lurk or two and begged that his suction cup fingers where good because I’d really hate for him to fall from all the way up there…right on my face!

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