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Published: December 16th 2013
Although you'd have thought that the rain would've tipped me off, it was only thanks to the happy frogs that I realised that it was the rainy season. You might wonder that I hadn't figured this out before I came, however Sri Lanka despite its small size, has different rainy seasons at different times depending on where you are, and I thought that where I going, it was the dry time. It was only at the last minute I decided to change my itinerary, at the insistence of Sri Lankan work colleague. "You must go to Dambulla and Sigiriya, they are some of the most beautiful sights in our country," she claimed.
I had arrived in Sri Lanka the night before and stayed in Negombo, a very small coastal fishing village, chosen only for its proximity to the airport. It was midnight in Sri Lanka, and 5.30 am in Sydney so I had been awake for 24 hours. Plus, after 18 hours of travelling I was exhausted. This was a good thing because as just as I falling asleep I was jolted awake by a loud bang. This happened a couple of more times before I realised that it was
the sound of coconuts falling on the roof.
Most of what I'd read about Negombo described the beach as polluted and the town fairly pedestrian, so the next morning, I was pleasantly surprised by the beautiful strip of golden sand and an inviting looking sea. This can only be good news for the beaches further south. However, I wasn't sticking around, I was off to the ancient cities!
I had arranged a driver, who picked me up from the airport, and was then with me for the next few days. I think his name is Camilis but after asking him three times I couldn't bear to ask again. He just calls me Madam. While I thought he was simply driving me to my destination, he had other ideas, and I ended up with an action packed agenda.
We stopped off at all sorts of places to look at interesting views, and see local points of interest. We went to a pineapple field and he showed me mangos, papayas, jackfruit, then we sat amongst the fields and I ate pineapple with chilli and salt. Delicious. We also stopped at rice fields, and met a man picking plants for
medicine. "It is for heart attack, and liver problems. Also good for stomach." It sounds like a real miracle drug, but all the same I'd like an ambulance in the case of heart attack thanks very much.
It was hot and sunny when I left Negombo, and because I thought it was the dry season, I was surprised to find ourselves driving into heavy rain. "Madam, it is raining in Dambulla," Camilis warned me. This was not good news.
But then the heavy rain eased away and sky cleared just as I arrived in Dambulla. I didn't have an umbrella or a coat, and I needed to walk up the steep steps to view the ancient temples. "Oh Madam, you are lucky, lucky, lucky," said Camilis as we arrived and the rain stopped. But he gave me an umbrella just in case.
Dambulla is famous for its Cave Temples, sitting high above the road, requiring a short hike up to the temple complex. At the base sits the enormous Golden Temple. Unlike the ancient Cave Terraces, which according to my guidebook date from around the 1st century, the Golden Temple was only built in around 2000. It
was certainly a hot walk up to the Cave Temple, but I missed all the rain. Lucky indeed!
The Temples are amazing. Beautifully painted walls and ceilings and filled with Buddhas of all shapes and sizes. On my way in I was asked if I would like a guide, which I declined. "But Madam there are more than 150 Buddhas!". Most definitely not in that case. What a long process of getting to know each of them. However it is definitely a spectacular spot and worth the detour.
After visiting the Golden Temple at the bottom, Camilis took me to my accommodation in Sigiriya, a cute little guesthouse in the middle of fields. My room was surrounded by gardens, resident cats and dogs, including a cute little black and white kitten, named "Kitty".
My day wasn't over by a long shot. Camilis suggested an elephant tour, which sounded like fun to me. First up I sat in the cage atop of the elephant, but after not too long it was suggested that I sit astride the elephant's neck. Actually it didn't seem optional, so somewhat nervously I climbed out of my secure cage and onto his neck.
Just as I was getting used to this, I was given a couple of bunches of bananas and before I knew what was happening, the elephant's trunk was snuffling around my arms and hands looking for food! He had clearly done this before.
Camilis had one final activity for us, back at the guesthouse he took me off on a walk around the little rural laneways and fields towards a little lake. We clambered up some rocks and sat admiring the views, watching the birds, a local fisherman, some wild pheasants, and enjoying the serenity. Camilis told me that there are lots of wild elephants in the area, and pointed out some guardhouses where people slept to make sure their rice fields are not ruined by wild elephants. Think of the mess that would make.....And my mother thinks sheep getting in the garden is bad!
I was keen for an early night. It had been a big day, and tomorrow I was climbing Sigiriya Rock, a huge rock which is an important historic site built by a former King, with beautiful fresco paintings 1600 years old. A 7.30 am start meant I would miss the heat and the
crowds, and I was still tired from the travelling. At the hotel there was an almighty chorus of something I couldn't quite figure out. I asked the friendly man at my hotel who told me, "It is frogs Madam. They are happy it is the rainy season." So that is how I learned it was the rainy season.
My first night in Sri Lanka I went to sleep with the sound of falling coconuts. The second night I slept to the very loud noise of happy frogs. Heaven knows what the third night might bring!
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littlewing
Cindy
Same Same but Different
Thanks for making me laugh again Rachel - Sheep in garden/Elephants in crop...haha!! Looks lovely