Korea Sep to Oct 04 trip diary

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Korea Photos
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Trip Diary

Cities/Towns covered: Seoul, Andong, Gyeongju, Busan, Jeju and Gongju

Sep 29 (Wed)
Flight from SIN-BKK at 08:20. Followed by BKK-Incheon via HKG. Thus had to get down from the aircraft twice, with one aircraft change at BKK. Nice conversation with Sierra Leone Muslim chap from Jalloh tribe who lives/works in Freetown. Stationary-related businessman.
Landed in Incheon Airport around 7+pm. Walked up to Info desk for my first encounter with South Korea’s superb courteous, friendly, helpful tourist service. Picked up KT telephone card for 3000 Won from airport convenience store and called Jang-Eun.

Boarded bus 10 bound for Dobangsan costing 12000Won! -passing by Banghak-dong where Jang-Eun stays. (every 30 mins bus departure). These are known as limousine buses and travel to various parts of Seoul. Seems to be the most popular way of getting into town. It is also possible to catch a bus to Incheon sub-way station and then take a 1300Won subway to wherever you want to go. This is a much cheaper option but might take a long time.

Was stopped at Immigration counter and led to office. After some thorough checking of documents (was asked to produce my Singapore Identity Card), released to go. Luckily, I had my friend’s address and phone number. Strict security all aright!!

In bus, asked Korean about Banghak-dong. Nice chap, dialed the number and let me talk to Jang on his mobile. Jang waited for me at bus stop. His father’s birthday party (only his parents and his wife) was just over. His wife and mum were at home. Very friendly aunt. His mum is the same age as my mum. Gave Jang the presents I brought - chocolate, Reuters cap, Reuters name-card holder and the Indian pappadums.

Jang stays in an apartment building called Samsung Raemian. Its not what I thought - not cheap housing that Samsung built for its employees. Rather, it brought the fact that the jaebol run everything here…
Jang’s apartment has ondol-style flooring i.e. the floor is warmed by hot water running underneath (in the olden days water used to be heated by burning logs and letting the smoke escape through a chimney at the back - these days, its more likely to be piped water)

It’s a beautiful apartment with lots of electrical gizmos. The TV is of a huge projection type from LG.


30 Sep (Thur)
Woke up. Offered breakfast by Jang’s mum. Lovely little bright red tomatoes with tight skins and green stems - very popular in Korea and delicious on their own. Left house (Samsung Raemian apts) and picked up some edibles from LG25 24hrs convenience store (Jaebols controlling everything .. need I say more. Samsung even have cars but they have recently sold it off to Ford). Apparently, jaebols exist coz the govt has given subsidized loans to these huge corporations - but one must admit, that these family/clan run businesses have indeed done a decent job compared to many of their counterparts in other Asian countries.

Took subway (1000Won) to Hoebyeon (near Namdaemum market). Took road passing Botanical Gardens up to Namsan peak. Elevator ride up Seoul tower. Views are okay. Excellent udong at tower base for 3500 Won. Walked back down. Visited mini-zoo for free. Large groups of macaques in this zoo.

Walked to Namdaemun while means South Great Gate. These gates are really a sight to behold - very impressive. It must have been awesome in those bygone days to approach these gates from the countryside. Strolled through the market. Picked up a male face mask (Hahoe style) for 12K. Walked up to City Hall. This is a nice place with a big open space smack in the middle of the crowded city with a large grass field - perfect for a picnic. Lots of people chilling out on the grass.

Walked farther down to Gen Yi statue and past heavily guarded US Embassy cum Military HQ. Must be 100s of policemen with armored buses. Met Jang at City Hall Station. Walked to a nearby restaurant for dinner - we had bossam. There is a convex hot plate on our table - on top of this, we placed pieces of pork - it’s like a barbeque. Pieces of lettuce also provided - to be used to wrap up the pork pieces together with onion, garlic and the ever-present kimchi. Tastes great - of coz, with a bottle of soju. There is a special way of serving soju - only serve your companion - never yourself. The glass from which soju is drunk is a small glass and Koreans usually ‘bottoms up’. Went to Jang’s regular hangout pub (bar) for beer. Good beer and friendly bartenders. Things about Koreans - no matter what job they do - they converse on an equal footing. My friend conversed with the bartender and taxi drivers with respect - never looking down.

1 Oct (Fri)
Subway to Anguk station. Went to Jongmyo - these are beautiful gardens with well-kept buildings. Houses spirit tablets of all Joseon kings - who constitute the last Korean dynasty before their fall to the Japanese. Ceremonial rites are still performed to this day by the dynasty descendants.

Crossed over to Chengyeong-gung (which means palace) - entrance to this is covered by Jongmyo fees. Also well maintained with a lot of original Joseon buildings. (unlike the main Gyeongbuk-gung where everything has been re-built in modern times. Walked to Insa-dong. This is an antique marketplace street. Graffiti on the walls - basically a colourful lively place to hangout. Walked to Jogyesa - this is the main temple of the Jogye sect. Korean temples seem to have the ‘Sakyamuni’ version of the Buddha. Another difference from Singaporean Chinese temples is that you have to take off your shoes here. They have thick cushions on which to kneel and pray - coz the floor is too cold. Picked up swastika necklace for Vipula for 5000 Won.

Met Jang at Yeongje subway station. This is where he boards the bus to his Samsung workplace. From Yangje, we went to Gangnam-gu. Had a very rich meal of clams and oysters - was half afraid that I was going to catch Hepatitis. We had to place these on the hot plate. When they were hot, the shells automatically popped open! Meal was taken with a bottle of soju for good measure. We then took the bus back to Banghak-dong. Jang’s credit card can even be used to pay the bus-fare. Really curious as to why they allow such low charges to be recorded against the cards - the transaction processing cost must surely be more than the bus fare!!

2 Oct (Sat)
Jang not working today. We took the train to Geongbuk-gung. Government must have spent a lot of money on re-creating this place. 1000 Won entrance. Saw the changing of guards. Pretty sight with smart costumes - palace is set against the backdrop of Seoul’s northern mountains. We then proceeded onto the Folk Museum - This is free with Geongbuk-gung entrance. Outside the museum, several haru-bang and scarecrow like statues are on display.

We then walked to Insa-dong. Here we had a cheap meal at one of the roadside stalls. The carbohydrate-rich Bibimbap (rice with multitudes of vegetables) goes for only 3K. Very filling meal. Bibimbap is supposed to be mixed thoroughly before eating.
The Koreans use metal chopsticks that are very difficult to use - very difficult to pick up food. Also, they are not square ended like Chinese chopsticks but rather flat (like a sword).

Jang then left for his parents-in-law house and gave me the codes to his flat - technology is bringing about the demise of the key very fast in this country. Went to Itaewon. American soldiers abound with place looking like an American sleazy downtown transported to Korea. Walked around and down hookers hill.

3 Oct (Sun)
Packed my backpack and vacated Jang’s house. Took the subway to Gangbyeon. Seoul’s subway system is so complicated. The same line splits into 2 parts - and then rejoins later down the line. Thus, following a line, you might be required to get off and change trains to go on to the next station down the same line!!!

Next to the subway station is Dong-Seoul bus terminal. There are buses, which run to Andong. Once in Andong, asked 2 Korean ladies about accommodation. They surprised me immensely by spending the next 30 mins with me visiting several places. Finally I settled on a yeoinsuk at 10K won. This is probably the lowest that one can pay for accommodation in Korea.

Info staff at Andong train station are very helpful. Walked to the MaskDance festival near the river. Lots of people are visiting this 1-2 week performance, which is held every October. Lots of free gigs going on. Saw a shaman dance. But main performance stage costs 3000 Won. Also, many stores, set up in Desert style white tents, offer free tea. This is such a brilliant idea … helps to fight the frigid cold and helps the crowd to mingle with the shop owners too.

Met a guy called Jason from the Philippines who works as a machinist in a nearby town. Bought glow-tube for nephews for 3000 Won. Also caught the Indian dance performance at the main stage for free (coz it was the last 30 mins of show for the night).

Oct 4 (Mon)
Yeoinsuk’s are a test - especially when visiting the toilet/shower. Many insects flying around and the toilet smells are strong. Took early bus to Dowan Seowan Academy - this is a Confucian academy. Lovely place for contemplation. Serene surroundings and the climb up from the bus stop is invigorating - especially the fresh morning air. This is where Yi Hwung, a great Korean Confucian scholar, is remembered.

After strolling through the Academy’s simple beauty, walked down to the bus stop. Bought a Korean hotdog for 1K. Upon which, the owner offered me some soup as well (only later did I realize that the soup comes free with the food at these roadside stalls which seem to travel on cartwheels). In town, boarded bus to Hahoe. Met Singaporean girl, Wei Xi. Too talkative. Works as a sports journalist for Lianhe Zaobao.

Together, we toured Hahoe with its authentic traditional houses. At site saw free Indian performance. Tasted free Korean wine - very good stuff. Back in town, had dinner - I had J U Tebap - this is one fiery rice meal. Definitely the spiciest thing I ate in Korea. Left Wei Xi and headed again for the festival site. This time, I paid the 3K Won to see the Russian performance.

At one stall, tried a building blocks game - failed miserably. But still I was given a small clay facemask - the spirit of this festival is truly alive. Dinner consisted of topoki (good spicy vegetables in red curry) and O-Deng (white fish pieces pierced on wooden sticks) at a street side stall.

Oct 5 (Tue)
Woke up in Yeoinsuk, Andong. Place is cheap at 10K Won but after 2nd night, don’t think I can bear it any longer. Toilet facilities are grotty affairs. Shower is worse with ‘shit flies’ hanging around and sometimes working hot shower.
Room is pretty okay --> with ondol (floor with heated water running below) flooring. Mattress was bad - blanket was bearable. Should buy the $12 sleeping bag in Singapore that Wei Xi talked about. (This Yeoinsuk is opposite train station).

There is even a brothel a couple of doors away. But the brothels in cheaper parts of town always seem to be manned by old women and in antique old buildings.
Walked to bus-stop mentioned by tourist office girl - All such staff are quite pleasant and they is always at least one who can speak in manageable English - Thank god for that as most Koreans seem bewildered at the sound of English.

Took 8.15am bus (have to follow timings as bus runs every 1.5hr) to Bongjeongsa.
Bong-jeong-sa (Phoenix-Stay-Temple) said to be oldest wooden temple in Korea. Legend has it that a monk threw a paper phoenix. It landed near the mountain base and temple was built. Some buildings are from Silla era. Short hike from bus-stop/entrance (1.5K fee) to temple. While walking around grounds, met sweetest Korean girl, Ms Kim. She approached me and asked me to sign in a visitor’s guestbook. She is one of 3 guides who offer guide services at temple for free. She lives in Andong and her office is there too.
Her safari style hat and sweet smile/little laugh caught my attention - though it was her personality, which bowled me over in the end.

She was coy about her English skills and so modest. But she tried her very best to guide me based on a splattering of English. And through her Korean-English electronic dictionary. (which costs about 20k won)
She invited me for coffee at the temple office. And made the coffee for me as well. She happens to be a Buddhist - so she can pray and work at the same time. She works for 10 days in a row at the same place and gets 1 day off. (specializes in Chinese language for Chinese tourists - degree holder in this area)
Broken up with bf recently

I offered her my Reuters compass cum keychain cum light (stupid me - compass did not work which she noticed right away). Also, after much reluctance, she accepted 5K as a token of appreciation from me.
I asked her to accompany me to the nearby temple annex, which was on a steep hill. She readily agreed. we then had to rush down to catch the 11.30am bus. At bus stop, she offered to buy me a drink. Instead, I bought our drinks, to which she raised a little but sweet objection. I parted with a heavy heart.
On the bus, I was very tempted to get down and go back. Such was the power of her companionship.

Back in town, I checked out from my yeoinsuk and went to train station. Very helpful male ticket sales staff. Bought mugunghwa ticket to Gyeongju for 7400 Won.
The ticket showed the platform number, seat number and dest/arrival and their timings - all in English.
Was adviced by info staff to take train. This is one of few routes in Korea where train is cheaper than bus.
Train left on time at 14.10. Transport in Korea is very impressive. Arrival/Departure timings are religiously followed.

Comfortable ride with more friendly people - especially the women (train doors auto close and only open at stations). Once in Gyeongju, picked up brochures from info office and called Hanjin hostel (as recommended by Lonely Planet). Took bus down to Express Bus terminal for 800 Won. Unfortunately, bus proceeded across river to the other side. Had to catch another bus back again.

Mr.Kwan gave me a discount. Usual price of 20K won for single room (share barroom). First down to 18K on phone and then to 15K. Say, similar price for dorms.
Very helpful owner with tips on getting around in Gyeongju. Even offered to wash my small load of clothes (1 jeans, 2 socks, 2 u/w) for free. Talented calligraphy artist and coin/stamp collector.
Room/shared bathroom very nice. Problem: unheated rooms, check-out time of 10.30am.
Walked around town and had excellent dinner for 5k won at Grand Korean Restaurant - 5 mins walk from Hanjin. Must have been 9 vegetable dishes + rice + kimchi + bean paste stew! (this meal is called taejang itchiggae - bean-paste soup/stew)

Back to hostel, chat with Malaysian couple, Lim & Lola, Korean gal, Yee Jay, who lives in Minnesota and Michelle, E.German guy.

Oct 6 (Wed)
My birthday - all of 33. First person to tell it to was Yee Jay. We went for breakfast and had an excellent bowl of gal-bukso (something - noodles) at a place near the hostel, which she bought for me.
Off to tourist office for free Internet - they seem to have it in all their offices - but in Korean OS though. Don’t dare to access secured sites as not sure whether I can successfully clear the cache after logging out.
In office, Yee Jay and the Malaysian couple tuned up. They invited me to join them for the day.

Took a cab to the museum.. Emile Bell --> Nowhere big as the one I saw in Myanmar - but big enough. 4 halls in main building. Ancient Period, Silla I, Silla II and Gugeyon. Special exhibits building had amazing specimens of Buddha statues. Also, Silla crown is unique. Lot of gold ornaments. Silla lasted from 57BC to 947AD? But unified Korea, only around 6++ AD.

Kids are all over the place. Autumn and spring are chosen seasons for school excursions. Kids were running riot and occasionally struck by my ‘Indian’ look. They like to say ‘hi’ or ‘hello’. But once, I respond, they are lost for other words. Perhaps, the only chance for them to test out their English skills on a non-Korean.

After rushing through exhibits, boarded bus to Bulguksa temple. Yee Jay made a friend - John from Ireland who been traveling for a year. Wow.
Yee Jay got on very well with him. I was into my second day of stomach upset. Not in mood to talk.
Decided to head up to Seokguram grotto first. 1150 for bus each way and 4000 for the grotto. Total costs exorbitant since grotto is just a small cave temple albeit with a beautifully constructed stone seated Buddha facing the rising sun.

Bulguksa temple also expensive at 4k won. John left earlier as he had seen temple before and YeeJay left halfway. Temple’s main highlight has to the 2 pagodas and the sarira (place where stones emanating from cremated monks’ body are kept)
The three of us exited temple. We came across a vendor selling boiled silkworms in some kind of black soup. I bought a cup full of these protein rich worms. Unfortunately, I could only manage to eat about 20 of them - then, the taste got to me. Lim was worse off and could only manage a couple.

The Malaysian couple went down to houses in front of temple. I headed back to town with a splitting headache and slept off. Woke up at 11pm and in a rush did chores and walked down to LG25 (24-hr convenience store for some fruits, mild and biscuits). Downed 3 bananas and some round little tomatoes.
These Korean convenience stores are everywhere - even in the small cities. No wonder, 7-11 cannot seem to get a foothold in Korea - must be intense competition.

Oct 7 (Thurs)
The end was yet to come - as far as my stomach is concerned. I was becoming burdened with this one-way input into the stomach.
Morning - did the downtown sights - Tumuli park, some nearby tombs (tumulis), observatory (from outside - its just a small tower which can be seen in its entirety from outside), Gyerim park (from outside - don’t have to go in - its just a forest which can be fully appreciated from without), Wolseong palace’s icehouse and Anapji pond.

Tumulis are - wooden coffin in wooden chamber or stone urns in stone chambers. On top of this, rocks are piled and each covering on top to create the perfect semi-spherical mound. Once large one, Bongwadhe, at 20+ m even had trees growing on it.
In Tumuli park, one had a doorway created to show the insides. This was definitely worth the entrance fee.
An-ap-ji (geese-duck-pond) was also nice - though most buildings had been burned down. Korean guide volunteered to guide me for free. I love Korea ….

Also, in most attractions, they have explanations in 4 scripts - Hangeul, English, Chinese and Japanese. Else, at least in the first 2.
After leaving, bough a bag of crackers (rice?) for 1K won. Must have been 15 such round crackers. I could only finish ¾ of the bag as they weren’t so tasty.

Walked back to downtown (long walk). Reached train station. Rented a bike for the ½ day fro 5k won (had to negotiate down from 10k won). This was at 12noon. Rode to tomb of Gen Yi across the river west of town. Gyeongju has good bike trails. At tomb, another free English guide offered to guide me. Her name was ‘Lee OK Hyung’, who is married to a taejeong-maker. Taejong is the bean paste used in soups and chutney like paste.

Sweet lady who went into great detail explaining a simple tomb. Apparently, Gen Yi had helped King Muyeol to defeat Baekje and helped King Munmu to unify the three kingdoms. Also, this particular tomb (like a few others) had the 12 Chinese zodiac animals on the outer concrete ring wall. She even asked me to identify each animal. Her’s was a snake. Park was full of kids as usual. These kids were very friendly. One group asked me to take a picture with them. I asked for return favour and picked up a little girl for my picture. Also, had a picture with the guide. Rode back towards downtown thinking I can make it for performance at Bomun Lake at 2.30pm.

Alas, the route was full of uphill and downhill. Almost gave up going there. Only reached tourist office at 15.45pm. But things always turn up well in the end. I met a very sweet tourist office staff. Her name is ‘Yeuk-Seon’ and she is very cute and friendly. Extremely helpful (especially since no other staff around). Spend an hour conversing with her and a little bit of time on the Internet. Rode back in cold weather back to town. Saw a ship shaped like a ‘sawn’ along the way on Bomun Lake. Almost caught a cold -as I rode down in just a T-shirt. Managed to return bike by 7pm.

Walked back to hostel. Saw some school kids climbing up an un-guarded tumulus. Inspired to climb myself. Boy, was it steep. Reached a height of 20++m (apparently, tumuli are not allowed to be climbed upon - coz of their sacred nature?)
Back to hostel, met Malaysian couple + South African lady, Ann.

Went for dinner alone. Had similar dinner as the day before. Rice with lots of side dishes. Heavy stomach. Decided that I couldn’t take it any longer. Went to pharmacy and picked up constipation tablets. Popped on and went to sleep. Conversing with the pharmacist was hilarious. I had to say ‘hwangjangsil aniyo’ --> roughly meaning ‘toilet NO’… and then added 2 days. Somehow, she understood. This incident just shows importance of brining all necessary medicines to a foreign land.

Oct 8 (Fri)
True enough, the medicine did its trick. I went to the toilet twice. Though had the feeling that not all was well and my condition was to continue. Checked out from Hanjin hostel. Left main bag in hostel and took bus 500 from terminal to Namsan (south-mountain). Got off at Samneung tombs. Also, saw another king’s tomb nearby. All these tombs have low green metal barricades around them. For these tombs, there was a sort of stone altar in front of them. And these tombs are not guarded. The altar had a couple of round stones (like rollers) beneath it.

Proceeded to hike up the trail. Not well marked. In fact there are so many paths leading up. I was worried that I might not be heading up the right course (wanted to follow climbing course #3). Later on, I realized that most paths end up leading to the same sights. Too hot - changed to Bermudas. Was wearing my heavy Coleman trekking shoes (have to buy a new light set like Hitech when I get back to SG).

On the way, many bilingual signs guided me. (though some were only in Korean. I had to guess the shapes from the map and compare to the sign - like a child reading a new word).

First off, I saw the headless stone Buddha and then the Avolikitesvara relief on stone. Farther up was a full-bodied seated Buddha and then 6 more reliefs (on two huge stones). This part is called Samneung valley. Finally, reached Samneung hermitage. The temple music wafting through the forest air (before one could see the temple) was surreal.

Another 30 mins of steep uphill climbing saw me atop the peak. One of the highest on Namsan. Views were great. Trek back down - took a slightly different route - still going west, but farther north of the original route. Ended up in the 3-buddha statue temple. Well carved ancient figures - sat down for a while in peaceful meditation.

At the foot of the trail, street stall vendor selling hot thin noodles. Cost me 2000 Won - good value. Changed to pants and walked to Poseokjeon pavilion and nearby tomb. No time - didn’t pay entrance fee (400++) for pavilion. Took bus 500 into town and then number 11 to Bomun Lake.
This time I arrived before 2.30 and could see the performance. This day, there was a traditional percussion-dance school competition going on. Basically gongs, cymbals, drums + the occasional bugle. Every team had a good mix of boys and girls dressed in beautiful traditional costumes. The girls were enthusiastic - some even carrying drums and dancing away.

At the end of it, started to rain. Spent a few moments with that very sweet Tourist Info staff. In town, went to inter-city terminal and took bus (4000Won) to Busan.

The 70 min ride left me in Busan Central Terminal. Unlike what was reflected in LP 2001, there are no more Dongbu and Seobu terminals. This terminal is at extreme north of town in Nopo-Dong. Took subway (800Won) next to bus terminal to Busan station. Long 40 min ride. Visited Tourist Info just before the office closed at 9pm and enquired about the yeogwan opposite station (called Daewon Youth Tel - probably they wanted to mean Youth Hostel).

Went to hostel. This is beyond the Russian quarter - complete with Russian hookers and Cyrillic store signs. Hostel was a dirty place. Room full of mosquitoes. Bathroom/shower private and just bearable.

Oct 9 (Sat)
After a night of un-settling sleep, checked out of hostel. Using sign language and pointing at numbers on wall clock to indicate when I expected to be back, left luggage in hostel and took train to Beomusa. Subway bus 90 departs from here to the famous Beomusa temple. Re-constructed temple - met a friendly Korean guide as usual - though, she was a bit older than the rest. A 14 year old Korean girl wanted to take a picture with me - I obliged of course.

Proceeded up trail on left of temple to geumjan san-seong (second word means mountain-fortress) Buk-Mun (North Gate). Lots of people climbing - all Koreans though. Not one foreigner - I love this. So many friendly people. Everyone keeps asking ‘Where are you from’ (even when they ask in Korean, I safely presume that this is the question - coz when I tell them ‘Singapore’ in reply, they seem to appreciatively nod and smile). A group offered me some soju and Korean cakes.

After exhilarating but tough 35min climb, reached Buk-Mun. Nice view. Lots of people inside fortress. Seems like a concert/event going on. There were even vehicles at this height! There are no buildings left - only the stone walls surrounding the perimeter. Fortress is one huge area. There are many peaks within perimeter walls. Definitely largest fortress I have ever seen. Took the path leading to DongMun (east Gate) about 4km away. Challenging route with amazing beauty. Entire route follows perimeter walls which hogs the rim of the mountain range - giving fantastic views of Busan on the left and the fortress grounds on the right.

Along the way, bought some fish meat sticks (O-Deng) from hillside stall. Even have watchtower along way. Truly Fabulous views. To the southeast, can see the huge, new Grand Bridge and to the east, the huge curving river.

A friendly Korean shared his apple with me. Reached DongMun and walked down path to bus stop. There is bus 203 going into town. A van offered to send us down to Oenchenjang station for same price. Korean elderly men who spoke English (former seamen) paid the fare for me. (I can’t believe this country!!!) At station, walked to Hoesimcheng (Grand Spa they now call it).

Entrance is at 8000Won. Moment, I stepped onto 4th floor, I felt intimidated. The changing room was full of naked men and boys. I asked for a large towel to wrap myself in but there were only hand towels. I saw some shirt and shorts (Hawaiian style) and asked for them. The staff said something like ‘Korean sauna’ and ‘2000 Won’. I didn’t understand but took them as money was the last thing on my mind. This is a high tech place were they give you an electronic key and all charges are auto billed to you.

Took the shirt, trousers, towel (but myself stark naked) and went into sauna - trying desperately to hide my nether regions with these pieces of clothes. I continued doing this throughout my stay there. The sauna was even more intimidating. Many curious stares (especially the kids) came my way as probably first dark naked body they have seen. (there were white men but they blended in more easily). Pity men and women are separated into separate saunas.

Different types of baths - power jets, purplish water supposed to be rose (which I didn’t like - smell was funny), open-air, sauna rooms at diff temp (e.g. 75/95 degree Celsius), hot and cold baths. Also special mineral water for free - supposed to cure constipation. I drank 2 cups - nothing happened to this effect.

Also, they had the cute sit-down baths where men sat in front of a low mirror on potty-like stools and used a special abrasive towel to wash themselves.

After much ‘fun’ and entertaining friendly kids with hellos and ‘Singapore’, wore the clothes and went down to the Korean sauna on the 3rd floor. This is a mixed section. Rooms like charcoal-oxygen, infrared, aromatherapy, icebox (looks like inside of an igloo) and normal saunas. This place was a place where you could see families relaxing and playing with their kids in hygienic comfortable environs.

Had a Korean hotdog (basically a pork sausage skewered on a wooden stick and covered with wheat flour) for 1000 Won - not a nice treat. Certainly can’t beat Western hotdogs with mustard.

Headed back to hotel. As late, took taxi (2200 Won) from Busan station to coastal ferry terminal. Had to leave today as no ferries on Sunday. As I reached after 7pm (ferry leaves at 7.30pm) all the sleeping berths (45000 Won) had been taken up. Bought a ticket for sleeping-on-floor only in a room meant for 40 people for 34K Won. Ferry was a large ocean-going one named ‘Cozy Island’ - got to my room and found out that I was the only one there. Other rooms were packed with people. Boat left harbour and nice captain gave me the key to my room. Should have brought a light sleeping bag .. God know whats crawling on the carpets that cover the floor.

Offered cans of HITE beer by tough Korean (probably seaman). Then, the first engineer took me to the bar and bought me a glass of draft OB. Good stuff. Went down and heard a group of Koreans singing and dancing. Slept off.

Oct 10 (Sun)
Land in Jeju-si at about 6.30am. Jeju-si has an artificially protected harbour - made by long stone-walled wave-breaker (similar to the one in Seogwipo - but unlike Busan which has 2 large islands just off its port protecting the harbour).

Found lonely planet recommended Hanmi-Jang Yeogwan after a 15 min walk from port. (this is after visiting the recommended Yeoinsuks - I don’t think I can stay in Yeoinsuk’s anymore … not well maintained bathrooms/toilets being the main reason). Really lovely place - this yeogwan - at 25K per night. Got it down to 20K a night for 3 nights after convincing nice female elderly owner through sign language. Just like a hotel - private bath, TV, icebox etc. But entire 5-storey building seems to be manned only by the female proprietor and her unwell husband. (the nice lady even offered to wash my load of clothes for free and even bought me a cup of coffee from the machine at the lobby for 200Won).

Slept off and woke up at 11 am. Walked to Gwandeokjang --> Admin offices of the 15th century during Joseon period. Bust mostly reconstructed buildings. Only 1 original. (Jeju used to have its own Tamra kingdom before being unified under Silla).

Proceeded to SamSeonghyeol shrine. This is where the myth of the island is centered. 3 holes in the grassy patch signify from where the 3 demi gods emerged from and populated Jeju. Nice 15 min animated film in English. Need to request for it at the entrance.

Following this, met friendly Korean university student, KangMo. We went for great Korean dinner at Korean style restaurant (i.e. seated on floor). ‘Okdom’ (red-fish) is the specialty here in Jeju. That plus a bottle of soju cost us 9000Won each .. a little pricey .. but worth every Won. Walked back to hostel after checking out nightlife (full of young people) near City Hall .. This is the only place for pubs and lively entertainment in Jeju I think.

11 Oct (Mon)
Woke up late - 10am plus. Off to bus terminal (take 200/300 from Dongmun Rotary - buses costs 850 Won each regardless of distance - pros and cons - no need to worry about paying wrong price .. but a tad expensive to take to the bus-stop down the road). Bus goes to Manjang-gul (Manjang Cave). Caves are situated 2.5km from main road. Hitch hiked on a Korean driven van. Caves are superb. These are lava tubes - i.e. caves formed when lava flows through under-ground. Amazing detail preserved - like receding levels of lava flows recorded by layers of lava rock on the walls. And lava rafts, stactalites, pillars, fallen rocks and sight of an upper cave through a hole in the ceiling.

There is even green algae growing on the walls - I was surprised as there is no sunlight in the caves. Only later did I realize that the strong white light tubes have UV in them - and this is enough for the algae to use for photosynthesis and create food.
Jeju is like on big sponge as it is made up entirely of volcano rock. So, in the caves, water dripping from ceiling even though no rains.

On way back, policemen offered a lift in patrol car to bus stop. (Police car rear door can’t be opened from within - so window had to lowered by driver. I then had to reach out and lift the outer door handle)
In town, had dinner at Korean restaurant - kind of pork cutlet with rice.

12 Oct (Tue)
This is the day for ascending the volcano Halla-san. Got up at 05:45. Reached bus terminal and got on bus to Seongpanak. The buses here are very regular and always on time - never have to wait more than 15 mins. This bus is headed for Seogwipo but stops at Gwaneumsa and Seompanak. (2 places from where Hallasan treks can be started)

The Eorimok and Yeongsil treks (on the eastern side of the mountain) lead to a midway point only. The trail to the crater from this point is closed till Feb 2005 for forest re-growth. (very sensible closure)

I started from Seompanak at 08:00. (After grabbing 2 rolls of gimbap for 3000 Won at the rest house). Lots of trekkers - all Koreans. One Korean, Park, was from Shilla Hotel, Jeju-si, accompanied me for a while. Autumn is great. The leaves are changing to brilliant red - especially the Japanese maple trees. Seompanak trail is about 9.3km tough course. At one clearing, saw 2 portable toilets with solar panels on top - for powering the ventilation (and possibly lights at night)

Reached Jindelabaat shelter (where there is a store) at 10.10am. 2.3 km to go (- have to start ascending from this point by 12.30pm.) Reached crater at 11.15am. This last part put tremendous strain on the legs -especially the knees. Climb was almost not worth it as summit was engulfed in thick white clouds and strong winds.

We were lucky enough to catch glimpses of the crater lake (through the parting clouds) now and then. The lake is pretty small in autumn due to lack of rainfall. Freezing cold at the top. Had to wear gloves and I probably lost a lot of heat through my head. Took the obligatory summit photos (catching the volcano rim in the background)

Made the descent down the Gwaneumsa trail with Park. Not possible to walk around rim of crater.

Gwaneumsa trail is about 8.7km and comparatively tougher than Seompanak (more ups and downs). As it was afternoon, the clouds had descended to lower altitudes and it was pretty cold for quite a distance. Started down at 12noon. The rule is to descend by 14:00. This trail is less popular. Though there are a few fabulous red green hills along the way.

At one stage, due to strong winds, lucky to see dead maple leaves sailing in the wind. Towards the end, there are a few deep holes in the ground. Looks like possible lava tubes. Well market off with high fences. Both trails are superbly marked - with miles of rope on both sides. Many portions have wooden planks riveted to ground as well as rubber tire sheets. Some steep portions even have rope-assists tied to trees.

Reached Gwaneumsa entrance at 15:0. There, guy I met from Korea Telecoms (along the downhill trek) who was with his friend. I asked for a ride out to the bus stop (probably 2km away) in his friend’s car. Caught one of the regular buses to Seogwipo for 2800 Won. Took taxi (1800Won) to Jeongbang-pokpo (last word is ‘waterfalls’). The meter starts at 1500 Won. Simple waterfall. But this falls directly into sea (only 1 of 2 in the world).

Funny they should make people pay (1800 in summer) to see waterfalls. Must be most not-worth attraction after Bulguksa and Seokgoram grotto. Most other places are worth it with very reasonable admission charges. Walked to Chungjiyeon falls and tourist centre. Checked Internet and paid 1800 Won for the falls. This is a much better managed attraction. Mini Botanical gardens with well labeled signs on distinctive plants. Falls was okay - nice night view. Great place for couples .. open till 10pm.

Bus back to Seogwipo bus terminal and then regular bus back to Jeju-si. In Dongmun rotary, ate at my favourite restaurant. Ramen noodles for 1500 won (hot and spicy - probably the cheapest meal in Korea - coz, all they probably do is use instant noodles and break in an egg).

In Seogwipo, small tangerines are popular. Picked up 4 at a wholesale roadside stall and wanted to pay. But owner insisted on not taking any money for them.

13 Oct (Wed)
Packed bag and left at yeogwan. Checked on paragliding options. Tel: [phone]. A tad expensive at 100USD for 2 - 5 pm session. But have to call early in the morning to book. The jump is from the oreums (parasitic volcanic cones) on Jeju. Bus to Jungmun (1hr). Walked to Jusangjeollidae. The tourist literature is very true as far as this attraction is concerned. Amazing hexagonal-cross sectioned basaltic lava pillars jutting out from the sea. In pre-historic times, lava had poured into sea and cooled - forming the hexagonal cracks in the flow.

Taxi to KL Petrol station near the botanical gardens. There is a bus stop in front of nearby restaurant - all buses plying this route head onto Jeju-si Bus terminal. At terminal, ate a bowl of cold noodles with some chicken meat (dakgogi). Except for the Japanese soba (green) noodles, all other cold noodles don’t taste that good. And cold noodles in cold weather is not exciting…

Picked up bag and off to ferry terminal to catch Mokpo boat ‘Sealand Express’ at 17.30. However, boat leaves from international terminal, which is 2km away to the east from the domestic terminal (where I landed when I came in from Busan).

Bought 2nd class ticket for 25,900 Won. Another Korean style ‘sleeping-on-the-floor’ room meant for 15 people. Cheapest option is 3rd class for 19,900 (meant for 40 people). Should have taken the 3rd class as only 4.5 hr ride and can sit in the sheltered canteen all the way.

As ferry left Jeju harbour, Christian Evangelist John - Korean - started chatting with me and started preaching. Gave him a good piece of my mind. Large ship with video arcade games plenty. Arrived in Mokpo harbours around 9.45 pm. Bus stop to inter city terminal conveniently located in front of ferry terminal. Bus No. 1. Reached Mokpo bus terminal in time to catch the 11pm bus to Gwangju (every 20min). Reached Gwangju (capital of Jeollanam-do) about 12.15am. Walked to area recommended by LP and got a nice room for 20K (bargain down from 25K) - all yeogwans in Korea come with many cable channels (mostly in Korean) with a few channels screening Korean soft-porn. All hostels seem to come with water dispenser in lobby. Convenient for topping up water bottles. (water can also be topped up at water fountains at all the major tourist attractions)

Oct 14 (Thurs)
Woke up late. Lunch at Lotteria in bus terminal (rye shrimp burger set meal - okay - substituted Code with ‘Chilsang Cider Lotte’ which seems to be popular in Korea. Transparent in colour and nice acidic taste. Meal costs 4400 Won with fries. (Another example of a jaebol with tentacles - Lotte is mainly a shopping mall giant with extensions in running their own fast food joint and producing their own cider).

Express bus to Daejon for 8900 Won. Price depends on time of departure as most are extra luxury buses for 13400Won. 12.30pm dep.

Reach Daejon about 2 hrs later. 15.07 bus to Gongju (luckily inter-city terminal just next to Express terminal). Gongju Express/Inter-City terminals are on the North side of the river ‘Geumnang’. Unfortunately budget accommodation and attractions are on the south End. Long walk to Tourist counter at Gongsanseong. Learnt that both accommodation recommended by LP had closed down. On staff recommendation, went to Oenchenjiang yeogwan cum hot springs (25k) - but too far from town. Took same cab back to downtown. Taxis are very costly in Korea. For this short ride, it costs me 3900 Won!!!

Finally, checked into OB Yeogwan at 20K. (again bargain down from 25k - this seems to be possible as this is the autumn season .. might not be possible in summer). Just 5 min walk from Gongsanseong. Very nice, clean place.

Unfortunately, the hostel doesn’t provide laundry servers. Very few hostels in Korea provide such a service. Also, Laundromats seem non-existent even in these fairly large towns. Luckily for me, Gyeongju and Jeju hostels had done my laundry - and for free.

Took walk down the main road away from river. All amenities and city bustle is 10 min walked south from Gongsanseong. Ate some sticks of chicken meat from street side stall. Some dakgogi and hot soup (in which the O-Deng sticks are left dipped in). This hot soup thing is a great idea - especially in cold weather. While eating from the sticks of meat, customers fish into the steaming hot container with provided clean bowls and sip the hot soup .. kinda like soup with chicken stock.

Got some hot chocolate at 900Won from ‘Buy The Way’ convenience store. So many native 24 hr convenience stores - no wonder so few 7-11s can be seen - too much competition I guess. Also, realized that my constipations could be due to the lack of Milo/hot choc as this is my regular drink back in SG. Gosh, my body is probably dependant on this stuff. Popped a sercodyl (anti constipation tablet). Nights are terribly cold in Gongju - even colder than Seoul, which is 2 hrs to the north. Guess, that Seoul being a big city has enough heat being generated. For the first time, I had to slip on gloves in a city.

The newer Buddhas in Korea seem to have moustaches and bright red lips.

Oct 15 (Fri)
Walked west to Muryeongwangneung (royal tombs). Quite a long walk. Set of 7 tombs in Songsan-ri. Muryeong’s is Tomb No.7. Gongju was capital of Baekje kingdom for 64 years in the 15th Century. Baekje tombs are similar to Silla tumuli. Except that a few tombs share the same slope here with only the top of the mounds being distinct. The tombs are much smaller as well though. None of the tombs can be entered. However, excellent replica hall where interior of several tombs have been created. Also, the crown of Baekje king is distinct from Silla’s - though not as impressive

Walk down another hefty distance to Gongju National museum. 400Won. Displays centred around King Muryeong’s tomb and its artifacts.

Caught bus No.8 back to town. Got into Gongsanseong for 1200 Won. Mud fortress in Baekje’s times -converted to stone in Joseon times. Most gates and buildings have been re-built in modern times. Nice but tough stroll around walls of fortress - 1-2 hours. Couple of free performances being shown in fortress as part of Gomaru cultural festival. At 6pm, sad Korean play enacted - period of Baekje warring with Goguryeo. At 7pm, modern Korean play (with both Western and Korean clothes being used) with what seemed like Shaman rituals interspersed. Though plays in Korean, visually appealing props, excellent Korean dresses and great face expressions combined to leave the foreign visitor more than satisfied.

Dinner at a tent in performance site for 5000Won. Kimchi stew (itchiggae) with daejigogi (pork), rice, kimchi, bean sprouts. This is a mean stew - its really hot. But good meal to fight against the bitter cold.

Oct 16 (Sat)
Picked up a 2 slice sandwich (lots of ingredients like ham, mayonnaise etc) + bread rolls for 2000 Won. Got my hot choc and rushed to Gongju local bus terminal. Bus to Magoksa leaves at 8.55am. Just missed bus - have to wait till 10am to catch the next bus (no.7). Magoksa is 40min away to the North West - across the river ‘Geumgang’. (Rivers go by many names in Korea - gang, cheon, myeong etc). Scenic route with the highway going through a tunnel cut into small hills. Such tunnels are common in Korea - they don’t seem to bother skirting these hills …

Managed to while the hour away by milling around Gongju traditional market at the bus-stand where the sights and sounds of fresh seafood are refreshing to the senses. At Magoksa, walked to temple (10 mins up a slope) and paid 2K to enter. Temple mainly re-built during Joseon period - only double-roofed (2-storey) main temple building I have seen. But upper storey is just to extend the height - it is not accessible and there doesn’t seem to be any upper storey landing. River running alongside temple adds to rustic beauty set in forest surroundings.

Decided to take the climbing course 1 behind temple - 5km. This proved to be a wrong choice. Unlike other trails, the trails 1-3 here are not popular with the locals. I saw hardly 3 other trekkers besides the wood cutters with their long poles and curved saw at the tips. Probably coz trails are not well marked. Not even in Hangeul. A few places where one could have veered off in the wrong direction.

Scenery not that great - except for the view from Nabolbong (417m). Took exit down course 2 (as I had enough of this tiring climb - probably still worn out from Hallasan adventure) but that only led to a few farmhouses. No sign of owners though dogs tried to bark me off. Back up on course 1. Finally, after an agonizing 3 hours, made it back to the temple (this trek is a really steep one - it didn’t help that I was having diarrhea from taking the anti-constipation tablet).

Caught bus No.7 at 1600 back to Gongju. Picked up bag and took bus no.1 (opposite Gongsanseong) to Express Bus terminal. Bus No.1 turns out to be a good ride to view the whole city south of the river. Traverses around whole city before heading back across river to the terminal. Express bus at 6pm (every 30 mins) to Seoul for 6300Won. Seoul Bus terminal is in Gangnam-gu, near subway station of same name. Took long subway ride to Banghak-dong. Walked to Jang’s apartment. Saw a note that said that they were having dinner with Jang’s sister-in-law family at nearby restaurant. Joined them for some bossam-like meal Barbequed port back ribs (eaten on its own) with some leafy stuff. And a spicy hot stew of the same pork meat.

Jang has a cute 4-yr old niece with big black eyes. Jang’s brother-in-law is an Army captain - Finance officer and Jang’s wife is a violinist.

After dinner, head to LOTTE MART, where I bought 24K worth of edibles for SG friends and paid with credit card e.g. LOTTE chocolate bars, chestnuts (I loved the roasted variety that they sold on the streets of Seoul), jujube, dried squid strips (another local favourite). Luckily, LOTTE only closes at 12midnight. Withdrew some cash from Han-Net ATM machine --> managed to withdraw directly from my savings account. But so far ‘KB*’ bank is the best - provides English menu and allows withdrawal from savings account (of coz - provided that card has been linked so).

Shower at Jang’s house. Jang, his brother-in-law and myself went to nearby pub for beer - Cafri is a good local light beer in the fashion of Corona while Cass seems to be run-of-the-mill. Only HITE was on draft. Had a nice side dish - dried fish pieces. Korea has this weird rule about pubs/bars - in most places, you have to order side dishes with your alcohol. However, there are a few places now opening up in the hip districts where one can order alcohol without food.

Jang then drove me to Ajpujeong (high class nightlife area) where we had cappuccinos for 10K each!!

Oct 17 (Sun)
Took the 6.55am Airport limousine - 12K - from main road in Banghak-dong. Buses in Seoul have a middle bus-only lane for some portions of major roads. This creates the abnormal sight of bus stops at the middle of the road (and correspondingly pedestrian crossings). These are similar to the ones in Hong Kong where trams travel along the middle of the road.

Arrived at airport at 8.15am. Checked in for the TG 10.15am flight. Decided to walk around airport. Walking back to departure gates, horrified to see lengthy queues at security checkpoint. For such a huge, new, technologically advanced Incheon airport, they only have 4 security checkpoints for international departures - woefully little. It was already 9.40am. The security staff helped expedite my progress by allowing me to jump queue. Shoes had to be taken off too. Thorough checks. Cleared immigration and rushed to departure gate - already 10am.

Luckily, they didn’t serve foie gras on this flight - duck’s liver. It has become a de-rigueur dish but tastes awful. Kimchi, seaweed wraps and Korean red pepper paste accompanied the in-flight meal. 4.45 hrs/mins to BKK. At BKK, took the cheap 30min foot massage at Airport at only 400Baht. No baht so paid 20 SGD (or 12 USD). Outrageous rates - should have changed money first. Good relaxing massage for foot and lower leg.

Flight to Singapore at 1515 hours. (BKK is 2 hours behind Seoul). 2hrs flight time to SG.

Note: Most costs are reflected in Korean Won

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Photos

Geumjeongsanseong-stunningscenary-lowres.jpg
Geumjeongsanseong-stunningscenary-lowres

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Enjoyed ur work. Susi