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Published: June 26th 2012
Why am I "off the air"? some might say that happens frequently. In this case of course I simply refer to the fact that I am blissfully (well it does make a change) without an Internet connection. All the better to blog you with my dears, because I simply write this now and then post it later. The Toobs we will come to shortly as that was definitely the highlight of the day and almost possibly one of the highs of this entire trip in Korea.
Well as David Byrne says in one of those Talking Heads songs, "how did I get here?". Well stoopid, on a bus from Jeju of course. The place is called Seongsan-ri - I think the "ri" bit is simply "town" in Korean. Anyway as I was only really going to be on Jeju for 2 1/2 days (I decided to skip the full third day because of the dismal rainy weather yesterday which is when I booked my flight out of here). So I had to really sort out what I really wanted to see on the island. It is Honeymoon Central for young Korean marrieds - they are apparently the ones who are
Jeonmang hotel2
what's called Korean decornot talking all the time on their mobile phones but actually to each other! It is supposedly a little like Hawaii in the sense of being largely a resort island and also having an island climate (although I do not entirely think that the rain yesterday was all part of that as it was also wet on the mainland). Regardless of that it finally started to clear up and get sunny after 3 PM, which was of course when I was getting to a place to head underground! Hopefully the sunshine will continue tomorrow.
Anyway back to Jeju. Had to get a bit of a hurry up to get out of the Motel Bobos, which I belatedly realise was actually listed in the Lonely Planet (as "classy and posh" - 5 years ago) along with the Tapdong Hotel across the road. And I found them all on my own, such is my luck with Korean motels. I then got a taxi up to the bus terminal for buses around the island. Just as well actually, I was going to have a trial walk up there yesterday but canned it because of the weather, and it would have taken a
Seongsan Ilchulbong
the only sunny view I have! good 30 minutes it would seem. Got myself a ticket to Seongsan-ri and boarded a bus with maybe one other person on it. The driver suggested heaving my big pack on the front seat opposite me. Which no doubt highly annoyed the pensioner old ladies who later boarded the bus in hordes on the way to my destination. Which took about 90 minutes to get to, and you could kind of guess that you were getting closer by the very distinctive shape of Seongsan Ilchulbong which is a rather abruptly green and steep crater mountain.
Found one of the hotels recommended by the Lonely Planet and as it was above a restaurant could not work out where the front desk so to speak would be. So just went up the stairs to have a look and promptly found room 202 (that recommended by LP) as open for inspection. It was at the front and also had a kitchenette with 2 burner stove and cooking stuff, so you could self cater for a few days if you wanted. Although it only had a half view of Ilchulbong it was nevertheless looking out over the bay and the sea is only
Manjanggul lava tube
very slow photo and hard to get an interesting one about 30 m away, so I am listening to it as I type this. Which will almost certainly be the only time that this happens in Korea for me on this trip anyway. The room behind it, with no view at all, was 40,000Krw and this one was 50,000Krw ($45) - no contest I would have to say. I was somewhat annoyed that the owner only wanted cashi, as I am running out of it, particularly as there was a credit card signing machine on the counter of the restaurant in front of me. As a result I did not patronise his restaurant that evening but found something else before I got back to the hotel.
Decided that the order of the day was then to go backwards about 30 minutes on the highway towards Jeju-si (city) and do the Manjanggul lava tube cave. That way I can hike up Ilchubong tomorrow, not to mention get over to Udo island on the ferry. I grabbed some lunch in a convenience store (some boring old white bread sandwiches, along with a rice triangle stuffed with spicy chicken in this case which you wrap up in a separately packaged nori seaweed
the tube
with lava grooves, side lit fortunately wrapper - very common in Japan as well) - not to mention a milky coffee drink which is described as "caramel macchiato" which believe me it is the only way I would have it!. I was cursing that a bus appeared to be coming along but he very kindly waited at the stop for me so there was absolutely no delay in getting on my way to the Toobs.
The LP can be criticised for various things (I could mention their maps for example) but at least its travel information to things like the lava tubes is suitably precise. Yes it is a 35 minute walk up the road from the highwaybut the walk is pleasant enough, and it was now quite sunny and warm. Being pre-warned about the underground cool temperature of supposedly 10-15° I had taken my light fleece lined rain jacket. And I was wearing my sturdy shoes rather than sandals, mostly because I did not know what the weather would do. I would have to say that if you have not been in a lava tube cave like this, add it to your "bucket list" now. I was almost close enough to the one in
Seongsan fishing boats
at the harbour while checking the Udo Island timetable Far North Queensland (called Bedarra I think?) when I did the Gulf Train trip some years ago but lacked the wheels/transport to get there. This system, which is apparently about 13 km long in total (only about 1 km is open to the public) is supposedly the longest in the world. Possibly there are others in Hawaii with its volcanic background etc. It really is like walking along in the belly of a very large black serpent. There is absolutely no chance of banging your head (unlike the Third Infiltration Tunnel!) as the roof of the tube varies from likely 30 feet to 60 feet. It was generally lit well enough so that you were not in danger of falling over (I had taken my torch just in case) and the floor is rather "rumpled" and irregular under foot. At the end of the 1 km there is a very large lava pillar coming down from the roof which at about 7.6 metres is apparently the tallest such lava item in the world. As I say I can probably safely say that this is the most impressive thing I have seen in Korea, and likely one of the most spectacular
Seongsan harbour
definitely post industrial natural sights/creations I have seen EVER, so get yourself to your nearest lava toob.
Walked back to the highway and was lucky once again at 6:30 PM to strike a bus fairly quickly taking me back to Seongsan. I jumped off before the town to go down and check the times of the ferry over to Udo island. Then in the gathering dusk headed out towards the coastal view of Ilchulbong, but man it was truly blowing a gale off the ocean. Even propping myself and camera against a pavilion post it was very difficult to get a steady shot as it was unbelievably gusty and strong.
There were quite a few people in this restaurant close so took a chance. At least they had sort of backed chairs although you still had to sit on the floor on them. This turned out to be another seafood feast, in this case a spicy seafood soup. But before that a small long fried fish along with various chilli vegetables and kimchi and some seaweed. The boiling bowl of quite chilli broth filled with seafood arrived topped with two plainly just opened and still squirming shellfish type things! Don't think
more harbour piles
with orange Samsung contrast they were abalone but may have been. Not to mention half a small crab and about four yabby sized things and mussels and clams. But it was an absolute feast for a little over $10. Now to sleep to the sound of the sea - ain't life grand?
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Huddo
non-member comment
Lava King.
Hi Mike, The Manjanggul lava cave sounded unreal. The photo of the depth and height, said a lot. Great photo's of the sunset and dusk, blowing a gale! You may have to "adjust" to normal food when home perhaps! Love Huddo and girls.