Jeju Day 1

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Left Busan as leisurely as I arrived and made my way to Jeju Island, the largest of the islands surrounding the Korean peninsula. Jeju is a volcanic island and full of mountains/extinct volcanoes and their leavings (the cities I have seen so far seem to be entirely paved in pumice, which is quite a nice effect).

Jeju's primary industry was, unsurprisingly, fishing. Given the strong Pacific currents and whims, a lot of the menfolk were killed or away at sea for long periods. As a result, the island was a de facto matriarchy and is apparently famous in Korea for the fortitude of its women. In particular, the women used to dive (to quite extraordinary depths, unaided) to collect oysters, and apparently there are certain villages in Jeju and its surrounding islets where this tradition is continued to this day.

However, in 2012, Jeju is more commonly known as a tropical haven and a honeymoon destination. Fortunately for me, it is not just newlyweds who make their way to the island, although judging by some of the stares I have been receiving, a woman by herself is a rare enough occurrence.

I flew into Jeju City, the capital city in the North of the island, only to leave it almost immediately for the second city, Seogwipo (don't be fooled by the spelling, it's pronounced "so-gih-poe"), on the South coast. Going North to South is not as easy as it sounds, however, since there is a huge (extinct) volcano in the middle, so my bus meandered West before winding up in Seogwipo.

My hotel is lovely, a little out of the city in gorgeous countryside and the room is huge (and pink, but I'm being grown up about it, and didn't throw a tantrum) with a mezzanine platform for the bed.

I checked in and then left at once to check out (groan) the city. Seogwipo is particularly famous for its waterfalls, and I went in the dusk to see the closest, Cheonjiyeon. The waterfall itself was actually smaller than I expected(although really loud - I attach a video so you can see for yourselves) , but set in a cute little park/village that was prettily lit up once night fell.

I wandered round the harbour a bit before grabbing some eel soup (which was disappointing, frankly - although the kimchee was exceelent, so I felt I had had a decent meal) and heading back to my room.

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Photos

Hallasan Volcano
View from my hotel

Seogwipo
View from my hotel

Grandfather statue
You see these all over Jeju. Apparently, they were originally placed at the entrance to villages for protection.

Water carriers
The other statue that crops up all over. To commemorate the women who hauled fresh water from the springs over Jeju's hilly/mountaineous terrain to their homes.

Smiling Rock
socalled. in Cheonjiyeong park

Wishing statues
In the water were three statues (fish, bird and one other) and you are supposed to make a wish to obtain the three happinesses of life for yourself or your neighbours. Since the first happiness was matrimonial harmony, I wished for you, dear neighbours.